Remote Starter install

[Porno Joe]

I'm thinking its time I bite the bullet and put a remote starter on my truck. Loving having it on my old ladies car. My question is, what all do I need to buy? I know I'm going to need some interface modules or whatever they are called.

its going on my 07 lbz btw.

I found an older post on the Silverado SS forum (since I own one of those too) and it said to install a remote start on the classic body trucks you need the following:

1- remote starter kit
2- GM bypass module
3- remote starter t harness (keep from having to splice wiring.

here is the link to the how to- http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/59359-how-to-install-a-remote-start/


Is it safe to assume installation is basically the same for a dmax?

 

[Nathan.]

Might look into how to program it to allow for your glow plugs to heat up. I love aftermarket remote starts but it seems like after a couple years they all break. Then again, there are probably some really good brands I haven't tried.

 

[ILuvJDM]

Pick a good, reputable DEI product (I went with python 5206p which is remote start and alarm). Buy a DBall2 from expresskit and make sure it either comes with the proper programming (I think GM4) or take it somewhere to have them program it. It will not work without the programming.

I really like the DBall2 on this truck because literally the only wire you have to splice for it is the purple OBD2 wire at the parking brake release area. Then the 4 wire plug goes straight into the brain (if you have a compatible unit) and that's that. then of course you have to wire the alarm/remote start, but that's actually not bad. The dball2 does not require a spare key to be inserted like other units either. One very important thing to note, which should save you headaches down the road, is that the immobilizer bypass will NOT program with EFILive installed. You must flash the truck back to stock, setup the remote start and get it working 100%, then flash back EFILive if you have it of course...

I recommend going through and finding the wires you need to hook up, and removing everything else from the harness with a small pick. I depinned my harness so I only had wires I needed on the harnesses. I only had to wire up about 15 wires total on my truck which was great. The first time you pull the harness out of the box, it will make your head spin. The 24pin harness for accessories got dropped down to 4 or 5 pins total. The remote start harness is the huge one that takes 9 wires, but 4 of those wires are 12v constant.

One more very important thing to note is make sure you get ignition 2 hooked up correctly. If you do not, very bad things will happen to your transmission. It's under the column, but there's a few white wires so it needs to be the correct one. It will be the one that trails off to the left with the brown and orange wires. Also note that most yellow wires have probably faded to white by now so look closely.

There's also some other small things that need to be done correctly or can cause issues. On my brain there is a jumper fuse that can be in a + or - orientation depending on which wire you hook up for the parking lights that flash with the alarm. I chose to go with the wire on the BCM plug (grey/black I believe) which is (-) so I put my jumper in the (-) position. This has to be done correctly because it goes directly to the BCM and can cause damage. I'm not 100% sure on the grey/black so don't take that as fact, but just keep that part in mind. I'll try to find the post I used from a Yukon/Denali forum that applies to 03-06 trucks like yours.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I did mine a few weeks ago so it's all pretty fresh on my mind right now.

 

[ILuvJDM]

Here you go, this thread has great pictures of the wire locations. That is basically all you need. The only other wires you'll need to hook up are the tachometer (white wire on the back of the gauge cluster harness plug), the hood pin, the siren and any other sensors you buy.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=133000


One other thing I read was that guys don't like those T harnesses. Sure, they make life easier, but it adds way too much wiring and makes it difficult to get everything back up under the plastics for install. My preferred method is to strip back the jacket on the wire you wish to splice, use a small pick to stab through the wires and make an opening, then slide your new wire through that hole and wrap the wire around the vehicle wire. Then I squeeze the wiring with small pliers so it's all clamped together, then take electrical tape and start at the end on the vehicle side and wrap towards the new wire splice. Once you cover the exposed copper, I use a small 4" zip tie on both wires. This not only keeps the new wires from coming loose, but also locks down the electrical tape and makes it basically permanent.

I will try to take pictures this evening of what I'm trying to convey, it's a great way to splice factory wiring since its reversible. The only wire you should be cutting and soldering/heat shrinking is the yellow starter wire.

 

[Porno Joe]

does efilive need to be removed for all modules, or just that one?

 

[ILuvJDM]

I've read of a few people that have issues, but I don't know that answer. Just keep that in the back of your mind if you are troubleshooting and stumped...

 

[1SloLMM]

Just buy the viper smart start. 500 installed and you can start it from anywhere there's a satalite signal

 

[UGAfsuFAN]

I have a Viper 5706V with the 2-way remote. Too cheap to pay the subscription for the Smart Start option. That also requires a second module. I have my (driver side only) heated seat connected and I can turn that on from the remote too. That's the best part. Still gotta remember to turn the heat up at night before I shut her down to help make the remote start worth starting! Bottom line, I wouldn't do without.

 

[bmc1025]

Here is what you need in the pictures. It all can be had for just over 100.00 and is very reliable. You will have to connect 6 large wires. Make sure you get the correct ign2 wire noted above! You will also connect 6 or 7 small wires. The Orange wire on the i-datalink goes to the violet wire on the obd-ii port. I make this connection with a crimp on scotch lock that has a female spade on it so incandescent disconnect this when programming the truck with EfiLive. All other connections especially the large gauge wires are made with the method ilovejdm posted.

 

[bmc1025]

I will be installing this in an 06 lbz in the next few days I'll try to write up something more detailed.

 

[Porno Joe]

bmc1025 can you list out what is in the pics?

 

[bmc1025]

It's an idatalink interface to disable the passlock system and it reduces wiring. The other module is the remote start. I'm using the RS4-G5 BUT you can use the RS3-G5 if you do not want the trunk button. I got the one with the trunk button incase it was needed to activate the heated seats. This is the first truck with heated seats I've installed one in.

Idatalink ADS-AL(DL)-GM1
cool start RS4-G5 OR RS3-G5

 

[bmc1025]

Also do not connect the tach wire. Most remote start systems use a very basic way of monitoring for an AC signal. When you go into high idle the pulses are fast enough to confuse most of them thinking the motor has stalled. So they will shut off and try restarting when the high idle kicks in.

 

[Porno Joe]

cool thanks! This looks like exactly what I am looking for. whats your opinion of the t harness thing to keep from splicing wires?

might be a dumb question, but this will lock and unlock the doors correct? basically take the place of my factory key fob, and also add remote start?

 

[bmc1025]

Yes it will lock and unlock the doors. You can also program it to start by locking the doors 3 times with the factory fob.

I have a t-harness on one of my trucks and it was a pain to tuck all the wires. That was on a 98 gas truck. I couldn't tell you how many times I've kicked things loose wearing boots while plowing snow.

 

[ILuvJDM]

I would just splice the factory wires in the way I mentioned. What I ended up doing to make it as clean as factory, was to offset every connection. I think I splice into 4 wires that go all the way to the ignition and staggered them so instead of having all the splices and zip ties at one location, they are about 1/2" apart so they all lay nice and flat. If you had all the connections at one spot, you would have a huge bulge of extra wires, tape and zip ties. I was able to get everything back into the factory slots under the column and it honestly looks factory. I take a lot of pride in running my wires and I probably spent an hour just looking at stuff before actually stripping the first wire. I like to have a great game plan.

I'm curious to see how my truck does with the high idle. I hooked up the tachometer wire w2w in lieu of the virtual tachometer... I'll see how it goes and if it messes up then I'll just pull the wire and program virtual tachometer

 

[Cougar281]

Here you go, this thread has great pictures of the wire locations. That is basically all you need. The only other wires you'll need to hook up are the tachometer (white wire on the back of the gauge cluster harness plug), the hood pin, the siren and any other sensors you buy.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=133000


One other thing I read was that guys don't like those T harnesses. Sure, they make life easier, but it adds way too much wiring and makes it difficult to get everything back up under the plastics for install. My preferred method is to strip back the jacket on the wire you wish to splice, use a small pick to stab through the wires and make an opening, then slide your new wire through that hole and wrap the wire around the vehicle wire. Then I squeeze the wiring with small pliers so it's all clamped together, then take electrical tape and start at the end on the vehicle side and wrap towards the new wire splice. Once you cover the exposed copper, I use a small 4" zip tie on both wires. This not only keeps the new wires from coming loose, but also locks down the electrical tape and makes it basically permanent.

I will try to take pictures this evening of what I'm trying to convey, it's a great way to splice factory wiring since its reversible. The only wire you should be cutting and soldering/heat shrinking is the yellow starter wire.

That is an excellent method of splicing - the only thing I'd highly recommend is soldering it too, rather then hoping that wrapping it and squeezing together will maintain a reliable connection.

 

[AKRiverRunner]

You also need to connect the wait to start lead that goes to the indicator light at the back of the instrument cluster. Alternatively you can program a set delay on most systems.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[ILuvJDM]

That is an excellent method of splicing - the only thing I'd highly recommend is soldering it too, rather then hoping that wrapping it and squeezing together will maintain a reliable connection.

I somewhat agree, the point of that splice I mentioned is for people that don't want to "modify" the original wires in a vehicle. The method allows you to completely remove the aftermarket wire and just tape the bare spot. I squeeze the connection with mini flat pliers I have after twisting them together, then it's wrapped with tape that can never unravel. I wouldn't be worried about the connection I made one bit :thumb:

 

[catman3126]

I somewhat agree, the point of that splice I mentioned is for people that don't want to "modify" the original wires in a vehicle. The method allows you to completely remove the aftermarket wire and just tape the bare spot. I squeeze the connection with mini flat pliers I have after twisting them together, then it's wrapped with tape that can never unravel. I wouldn't be worried about the connection I made one bit :thumb:

Are you talking about those blue wire taps? if so there is much better type to use look up Posi tap these work much better and just pierce the wire with a small needle rather then cutting the coating.

http://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-Posi-...=UTF8&qid=1449244415&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap