Remote Starter install

ILuvJDM

New member
Jul 15, 2014
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Austin, Texas
No, I don't like wire taps at all. I explained a perfect method a few posts up. I will try to grab some spare wire in my garage and make visuals of what I mean.
 

Cougar281

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2006
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St Louis, MO
I somewhat agree, the point of that splice I mentioned is for people that don't want to "modify" the original wires in a vehicle. The method allows you to completely remove the aftermarket wire and just tape the bare spot. I squeeze the connection with mini flat pliers I have after twisting them together, then it's wrapped with tape that can never unravel. I wouldn't be worried about the connection I made one bit :thumb:
When soldered using this same method, if you want to remove it, you can just cut the added wire off real close to the original and tape it up the same, all without cutting the original in any way.

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ILuvJDM

New member
Jul 15, 2014
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Austin, Texas
If you do not solder all connections you will have problems in the future. Just a matter of time.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

With the above method it's virtually impossible to fail.

I promote soldering, but not everyone can do it and should do it. Most people have cold solder joints that are 10x worse than a t tap
 

bmc1025

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Jan 25, 2013
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Big Bone, KY
If you do not solder all connections you will have problems in the future. Just a matter of time.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

When wrapped using JDM's method, the same as suggested by DEI (one of the largest manufactures of remote starters) you will not have issues. I have never had any of these connections fail, and some of my installs are 10 years old.

I am proficient in soldering but it is not necessary here..
 

J83

New member
Apr 11, 2014
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You also need to connect the wait to start lead that goes to the indicator light at the back of the instrument cluster. Alternatively you can program a set delay on most systems.

keep in mind that if you choose to hard wire the WTS wire, you will need to diode isolate it or it will never crank. the wire is orange IIRC behind the cluster along with your tach (white) in the same location.

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I somewhat agree, the point of that splice I mentioned is for people that don't want to "modify" the original wires in a vehicle. The method allows you to completely remove the aftermarket wire and just tape the bare spot. I squeeze the connection with mini flat pliers I have after twisting them together, then it's wrapped with tape that can never unravel. I wouldn't be worried about the connection I made one bit :thumb:

a "poke and wrap" method (also called a military splice) is a good compromise to twist and tape, while no where near as permanent as a soldered joint, it will not pull off like a twist and tape connection, in the event that the system is removed, replaced or the ignition harness has to be replaced due to a bad switch, the wire connections can easily be disconnected without losing wire length or damaging the factory harness beyond a little insulation.

Are you talking about those blue wire taps? if so there is much better type to use look up Posi tap these work much better and just pierce the wire with a small needle rather then cutting the coating.

http://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-Posi-...=UTF8&qid=1449244415&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap


thats really not a lot better then a T-Tap or scotch lock, it is still a poor connection poked into a wire with high resistance and a high likelihood for failure or intermittent connection. poke and wrap or solder would be far superior. while they are not going to slice into the wire like a t-tap does, your still pulling a lot of current through that needle.
If you do not solder all connections you will have problems in the future. Just a matter of time.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

this is simply not true, in fact i have seen solder joints on multiple occasions fail due to the wire breaking at the joint because of the harness of the lead and the copper work hardening and cracking. while a soldered joint is generally a superior connection, a properly made military splice is just as effective.

When soldered using this same method, if you want to remove it, you can just cut the added wire off real close to the original and tape it up the same, all without cutting the original in any way.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

this gets kind of messy if you have a couple remote starts installed, you start to run out of wire real fast. (another reason poke and wrap is a good solution for a remote start install). also the whole ignition switch harness can be replaced for 30 bucks or so, so if the wires are too rough the whole harness can be swapped. this can be nice when the insulation is baked onto the 15 year old copper and is a royal pain in the ass to strip off.