Remanufactured motor

Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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Yeah whhhaa. A lot of shops popping up these days. I doubt they have liability insurance, pay the employees health insurance, offer 401k plans (company matched I might add) dental, eye, life, long and short term disability, hell I bet a lot of these new shops sneak by without workmans comp...... If you're a legit shop then 4k is with studs is reasonable. But for 2800 more I get a fully refreshed motor with 100,000 mile warranty..... Again comes down to making an intelligent decision with your money.

I'm sure some will be butthurt about being questioned, it's part of being in business so deal with it.

Makes sense to me and I'm definitely headed in that direction. I just hope they ship yo Hawaii!
 

Evan@InglewoodTrans

yerp
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Aug 5, 2010
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Scrap what I said before. With coolant in the oil and not knowing the trucks history I wouldn't trust it without going through the whole motor.
 
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Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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I got my heads cleaned and surfaced, new gaskets, ARP 2000 studs and an avant 4094 turbo installed for 7k...the head job and gaskets and studs was about $4,300

That being said, a year or so later I toasted the engine and bought a brand new/refurbished GM crate engine from GM with their standard 100,000mi warranty for $6800 out the door and installed it myself...

IMHO
The smart money would be spent on the new engine if you can do the job yourself, but remember there is always going to be other costs involved, may it be getting tools like a hoist and stand or a flywheel holder, or extra/new parts like a better H2O pump, balancer, injectors, turbo etc...and don't forget fluids, they add up quick



The $6800 only covered the long block which had a new H2O pump and oil cooler, front and rear cover, heads and valve covers bolted on but nothing else...

There's a few shops around that don't totally gouge ya for a head job, but even then it's gonna be close to a $4k bill...

Where did you purchase the GM refurbished engine for that price?
 

Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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I decided to go ahead and replace the HGs on this truck and after removing the exhaust manifolds, I turned the truck over to see if any coolant was coming out of the cylinders. The two front cylinders on each bank had coolant coming out of them. I'll be pulling the heads soon, but I just wanted to get your thoughts on this until then. I was originally thinking cracked head or block, but on both sides? It doesn't make sense to me. The previous owner replaced the HG so maybe he didn't get the proper head work done on them? What are your thoughts?
 

Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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What would you do?

Ok, I got the heads off today and I didn't see any cracks in the head or block. However, I did find some interesting things. The HGs have + .010 overbore stamped on them. While doing leak down test, cylinder # 7 had a small amount of air coming out the exhaust. On this same cylinder, you can see dried up coolant residue. Also, one of valves has a small chip where the rocker arm mates up to it. I'm not sure how this happened, but obviously needs to be replaced. Should I be concerned about the overbore? For all I know the previous owner bought the wrong HGs. If I had more time, I would go through this motor to be safe. Unfortunately, that's not the case. So, my plans are to take the heads to the machine shop and get them inspected inside out. Next, get any work done that needs to be done on them and throw it all back together. Based on all this information, does anybody disagree with my way forward on this, or have a better suggestion? I can always be safe and spend about 6 grand on a long block, but I'm trying to avoid that. Please share your thoughts on this.
 

Huffy67

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Dec 26, 2014
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If you ran it long enough to see how the Trans was and it seemed ok then I would say it's ok. I would use grade c gaskets and head studs and new water pump and call it a day... You checked compression and all that stuff, that's more than most people would do...


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Huffy67

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Dec 26, 2014
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Arkansas
Can't pull the oil pans without separating motor and Trans, by the way, I would also do a pcv re route and at the very least an egr blocker plate while you're in the process of doing head gasket replacement.


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Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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If you ran it long enough to see how the Trans was and it seemed ok then I would say it's ok. I would use grade c gaskets and head studs and new water pump and call it a day... You checked compression and all that stuff, that's more than most people would do...


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I did check the tranny before I purchased the truck and it seemed to shift ok. The truck was running horrible so I wasn't able to take it out of the neighborhood and I really didnt want to because of the condition of the oil. I just wanted to verify the tranny worked before purchasing the truck.

I'm taking the heads to the machine shop on Monday to hopefully be able to determine what was causing the coolant to get into the oil as well as coolant into the cylinder.

I will do the PCV re-route as well as the EGR Delete for sure. Thanks for your input on this.
 

Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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Any other checks?

Besides checking the block for cracks and ensuring the surface is extrememly clean prior to installation of the heads, are there any other checks I can perform prior to installing the heads? I'm not knowledgeable when it comes to the internal parts of the motor, so I'm definitely learning a lot here. I'm thinking it would make sense to measure each cylinder to ensure they're not worn out. Is there a kit out there that allows you to plug up all the coolant jackets so you can pressurize the coolant sytems to ensure nothing internally is wrong? What about a kit that allows you to pressurize each cylinder while holding the crankshaft steady to ensure the rings are sealing properly? Any other checks I should perform? I just want to do everything possible to confirm nothing is wrong with my block prior to going through all the work of putting it back together. What's the best way to protect the cylinders while the heads are off? From what I read, something like a light coat of lucas oil additive does a good job. Thanks for your help on this.
 

andy-stevenson

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Jul 7, 2013
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Can't pull the oil pans without separating motor and Trans, by the way, I would also do a pcv re route and at the very least an egr blocker plate while you're in the process of doing head gasket replacement.


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The lower pan can be pulled.
 

Max Attitude

11SIX
Mar 7, 2012
814
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Caledonia, MI
I did check the tranny before I purchased the truck and it seemed to shift ok. The truck was running horrible so I wasn't able to take it out of the neighborhood and I really didnt want to because of the condition of the oil. I just wanted to verify the tranny worked before purchasing the truck.

I'm taking the heads to the machine shop on Monday to hopefully be able to determine what was causing the coolant to get into the oil as well as coolant into the cylinder.

I will do the PCV re-route as well as the EGR Delete for sure. Thanks for your input on this.

Did it have a lot of coolant in the cylinder(s)?
 

Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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Did it have a lot of coolant in the cylinder(s)?


When I was attempting to do a compression check, I saw what appeared to be coolant coming from the front two cylinders. It was not a lot though.
I'm still confused on how coolant was coming out of the tail pipe in the form of raw coolant instead of white smoke. It's got to be a dead cylinder the coolant is leaking into.
 
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Max Attitude

11SIX
Mar 7, 2012
814
0
16
Caledonia, MI
Which would explain why it ran so poorly… close to hydro locking probably. I had bought a truck to fix up before (5.7 vortec).."needed head gaskets". Ran barely enough to get onto trailer. Guy said he didn't run it much once he found out gaskets were bad. :roll eyes: Pulled the heads off and lots of coolant in cylinders. Long story short I ended up dropping in a new engine because it had a bent rod and was rubbing the piston hard into the wall.

I would definitely check the condition of the cylinders closely when you have the heads off at the least.
 

Jrmat1

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Dec 11, 2014
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Which would explain why it ran so poorly… close to hydro locking probably. I had bought a truck to fix up before (5.7 vortec).."needed head gaskets". Ran barely enough to get onto trailer. Guy said he didn't run it much once he found out gaskets were bad. :roll eyes: Pulled the heads off and lots of coolant in cylinders. Long story short I ended up dropping in a new engine because it had a bent rod and was rubbing the piston hard into the wall.

I would definitely check the condition of the cylinders closely when you have the heads off at the least.

Yep, I plan on checking each cylinder with a sonic tester to ensure the cylinder walls have the right thickness. A bent rod has crossed my mind. You think I'll notice if the rod is bent by simply turning the crankshaft and observing each cylinder? I'm really hoping the machine shop is able to determine why coolant was leaking into the cylinder and also into the oil. If not, I have to figure out how to pressurize the coolant jackets in the block to verify source of leak. That probably won't be necessary considering it has to be in the Block and it's time for replacement at that point. The only other possibility is the EGR cooler, but from what I read the coolant goes straight to the exhaust when the cooler fails. It shouldn't be going into the cylinders. Well, the good news is I'm getting one step closer to figuring this out.