Yeah saving money is ignorant:thumb:
Some people never cease to amaze me, thank you for that.
Lol wow your right people never cease to amaze me either.
Yeah saving money is ignorant:thumb:
Some people never cease to amaze me, thank you for that.
Lol wow your right people never cease to amaze me either.
Moral of this story, don't tell someone they're ignorant because they question the validity of some Duramax repair pricing. Of course, you feel the way you do cause your the shop owner (I presume). In this case I'm the customer and I have the right to question pricing. My customers do the same to me, and I have to compete with shops in China and India..... The "I have to pay overhead and labor" sob story gets me nowhere, as it does for you as well.
Toughen up buttercup. My orignal post wasn't directed towards anyone in particular.
I know your post wasn't directed at anyone in particular. I said how I felt about it then you let your crotch show. Ive been called many things but your the first one with buttercup I'm very impressed. I'm done with the non productive Internet arguing over nothing as I don't enjoy it. Have a good night
Come on man, it's passing the time at this boring Christmas party I'm at:angel:
And I've never been accused of "letting my crotch show" I'm equally impressed.
Good Night:hug:
You're all correct, but since he mentioned being worried about other things wrong with the motor it sounds to me as if he was going to be doing it himself. If you have it checked out and repaired by a shop, you usually don't have to worry about it coming back broken.
I got my heads cleaned and surfaced, new gaskets, ARP 2000 studs and an avant 4094 turbo installed for 7k...the head job and gaskets and studs was about $4,300
That being said, a year or so later I toasted the engine and bought a brand new/refurbished GM crate engine from GM with their standard 100,000mi warranty for $6800 out the door and installed it myself...
IMHO
The smart money would be spent on the new engine if you can do the job yourself, but remember there is always going to be other costs involved, may it be getting tools like a hoist and stand or a flywheel holder, or extra/new parts like a better H2O pump, balancer, injectors, turbo etc...and don't forget fluids, they add up quick
The $6800 only covered the long block which had a new H2O pump and oil cooler, front and rear cover, heads and valve covers bolted on but nothing else...
There's a few shops around that don't totally gouge ya for a head job, but even then it's gonna be close to a $4k bill...
Back on topic. How many miles are on the truck and what condition is it in? It's doubtful the motor is garbage. I would pull the motor and take the heads off. If it got hot enough to hurt it you will know. If all looks well have the heads gone through and put it back together and enjoy the truck.
Guess those of us who do this to earn money should do it really cheap because 4k is to much? It's a lot of time and if I can't make any money I sure as hell won't go threw the headache of doing it for nothing.
To the op I highly doubt the motor is toast I'd pull it and tear the heads off and check them like Evan said also the bottom end will be easy to see if any damage has occurred pressure test and mill the heads for flatness.
If the bottom end is junk well your halfway done with a motor swap anyway
we do it for $3300 here, including head studs. Cheapest price I have seen