Quiet today

dndj

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Yours is the first post I've seen, Mike posted while I was writing this. Everyone is busy wrenching in the shop on their trucks I guess. :)
 
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darkness

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Jul 15, 2009
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I was working on my defuel this afternoon. I think I got it pretty smooth now. 1-2 shift is not wanting to come around but I’ll get it.
 
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DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
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I had to start going back into the office for the first time in 2+ years. Amazing how much less work gets done in the same time when people keep coming over to talk instead of letting me work.

If I was hourly, I wouldn't care, but I'm salaried so I have the same amount of work to do, and less time to do it. Plus the commute, fuel costs, etc.

I need to polish up the defuel on my Suburban a bit more. It is WAY by better than it was on the Suncoast TCM, but it is so close to perfect when I feel an occasional slightly firm or soft shift it bothers me LOL. The worst shift on the Suburban is now better than the best shift on my truck, so I should really focus on that.

Never enough hours in the day though. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Sent from my FlashScan V2 using Tapatalk
 
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Chevy1925

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Yeah, new stuff is being released next week and I’ve been working all week to make sure batching is correct. Lots of details to iron out on that plus making sure colorant works across the board with our standard stuff.

1.5 years in the making, I’m glad to see it in tubes and on the racks! It seems to have paid off with what I and all our market sample have come back with.
 

2004LB7

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Yeah, new stuff is being released next week and I’ve been working all week to make sure batching is correct. Lots of details to iron out on that plus making sure colorant works across the board with our standard stuff.

1.5 years in the making, I’m glad to see it in tubes and on the racks! It seems to have paid off with what I and all our market sample have come back with.
new formula that's different or just trying to make the same with different ingredients? Acrilic, Latex, silicone, polyurethane, polyuria/aspartic? something else?

do you have issues with pigments such as iron oxide messing with the curing vs other pigments or dyes?
 

Dozerboy

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Jun 23, 2009
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Well I'll make a post for today already. Been slammed at work and the Dmax is great. I really want to sink some money into it, but we have decided to have my wife stay home with the kids. We aren't happy with public schools right now. And we are definitely not happy with the progress my special needs son is making in therapy which cost over $6k a month.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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new formula that's different or just trying to make the same with different ingredients? Acrilic, Latex, silicone, polyurethane, polyuria/aspartic? something else?

do you have issues with pigments such as iron oxide messing with the curing vs other pigments or dyes?
yup, completely new formula in comparison to the typical acrylic we sell. its a hybrid acrylic that mimics silicone. you can lay a thin layer (1000 micron thick) and stretch it 500% before tearing and thats with the sanded texture. non sanded will go 700%. the only thing we will never be able to mimic the property of is, 100% water submersable.

basically, installers dont want to keep the expansion/movement joints clear of grout when doing tile. the grout cracks in a couple months and homeowner is calling them back out to repair. these guys wont dig out the grout and then apply the caulking, instead they lay a bead over top of the cracked grout, wipe it smooth and leave a thin layer that no latex caulk will hold up against. So in another month or two, contractor is getting a call again for cracked grout, contractor says its the caulk when its not and now we have to be the bad guys after a little investigating.

So this was initially designed to be used on poor installations but we got guys wanting it for exterior uses and countertop jobs because it wont crack, its FAR cheaper than silicone and easy clean up. My new house, i told the contractor (who uses our stuff) to caulk all the applicable joints because he flat out told me they dont do that. Low and behold, he didnt do it but luckily i had test samples of the new stuff so i had his guy come back out and apply the new stuff to ever single edge of tile that butted against the wall including all the showers. Dude wasnt thrilled but not my issue. He said "i only fix whats been blue taped", so i said "ill gladly go down to home depot and buy 3 rolls of blue tape to literally wrap the whole house in it if you want, look for your self my man, its all cracked". he nodded and set off to work lol. So far, not a single crack.
 
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2004LB7

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yup, completely new formula in comparison to the typical acrylic we sell. its a hybrid acrylic that mimics silicone. you can lay a thin layer (1000 micron thick) and stretch it 500% before tearing and thats with the sanded texture. non sanded will go 700%. the only thing we will never be able to mimic the property of is, 100% water submersable.

basically, installers dont want to keep the expansion/movement joints clear of grout when doing tile. the grout cracks in a couple months and homeowner is calling them back out to repair. these guys wont dig out the grout and then apply the caulking, instead they lay a bead over top of the cracked grout, wipe it smooth and leave a thin layer that no latex caulk will hold up against. So in another month or two, contractor is getting a call again for cracked grout, contractor says its the caulk when its not and now we have to be the bad guys after a little investigating.

So this was initially designed to be used on poor installations but we got guys wanting it for exterior uses and countertop jobs because it wont crack, its FAR cheaper than silicone and easy clean up. My new house, i told the contractor (who uses our stuff) to caulk all the applicable joints because he flat out told me they dont do that. Low and behold, he didnt do it but luckily i had test samples of the new stuff so i had his guy come back out and apply the new stuff to ever single edge of tile that butted against the wall including all the showers. Dude wasnt thrilled but not my issue. He said "i only fix whats been blue taped", so i said "ill gladly go down to home depot and buy 3 rolls of blue tape to literally wrap the whole house in it if you want, look for your self my man, its all cracked". he nodded and set off to work lol. So far, not a single crack.
that pretty neat. I like typical acrilic caulking for pretty much anything not bathroom related. when I started reading the 500%-700% I was thinking who would need something with that much expansion unless the joint is really thin or some other weird condition. sure enough you described exactly what conditions would match that. I've had good luck using silicone for those conditions but I'd rather not use silicone if possible. polyurethane wood also work well, actually better if you can get over the longer cure times and messy application. sounds like your new stuff would fit the bill

ever looked into epoxy siloxane formulas? seems like if someone could make a blend that had 200-300% expansion it'd work well as a pure silicone alternative. I would imagine it would have better bond strength and tensile strength. all which silicone fail at. it should also have excellent colorfastness in out doors. paintable, water tolerance, bond and tensile strength. weirdly it only seems to be used as a coating
 

Chevy1925

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Yeah we have a company already looking heavy at matching their LVP colors and using it. I have to verify our shrinkage wont be an issue though. We meet ASTM standards but shrinkage its more noticable on LVP.

being it would a two part epoxy, many installers shy away from it. also leads to higher costs and epoxy is not something we are equiped to do. Another big issue is sag/self leveling of the product. Its very hard to make a 2 part epoxy thick enough right out of the gate to not sag or run down on a built up area or run down into thinset under tile, etc. it requires more volume of the product to work which is then more cost.

in a coating, thats a non issue.
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Yeah we have a company already looking heavy at matching their LVP colors and using it. I have to verify our shrinkage wont be an issue though. We meet ASTM standards but shrinkage its more noticable on LVP.

being it would a two part epoxy, many installers shy away from it. also leads to higher costs and epoxy is not something we are equiped to do. Another big issue is sag/self leveling of the product. Its very hard to make a 2 part epoxy thick enough right out of the gate to not sag or run down on a built up area or run down into thinset under tile, etc. it requires more volume of the product to work which is then more cost.

in a coating, thats a non issue.
true, it would have to be a dual cartridge with the mixing tips. most don't use them because convenience.

maybe if you could figure out how to replace the epoxy with a urethane then you can make it a single component moisture cure but you'd also loose some of bond psi. not sure if urethane and siloxane can be made chemically compatible with the desired properties. I wonder if a vinyl ester caulking would have a place
 

Chevy1925

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true, it would have to be a dual cartridge with the mixing tips. most don't use them because convenience.

maybe if you could figure out how to replace the epoxy with a urethane then you can make it a single component moisture cure but you'd also loose some of bond psi. not sure if urethane and siloxane can be made chemically compatible with the desired properties. I wonder if a vinyl ester caulking would have a place
lol see, you are going down the road we have looked at for 10 plus years. While new "hybrids" are being made every day, there is no "have your cake and eat it too", everything has a down side one way or the other.

what guys want is water clean up and 100% water submersable. there is absolutely nothing on the market for that even though there are claims (ive done plenty of testing lol) and its chemistry impossible at the moment. I have a chemist trying different things with his reactors on his off time to see if he can come up with anything using any new stuff he finds.
 
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2004LB7

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sounds like you need a silicone emulsified in water. except keeping the water from ruining the silicone or donating it's oxygen for curing while in the tube would be a challenge. but I see your pain. any water clean up product has to be made to be water compatible in it's uncured phase which also makes it suspectable to water in it's cured form. all about polar and non polar
 
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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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sounds like you need a silicone emulsified in water. except keeping the water from ruining the silicone or donating it's oxygen for curing while in the tube would be a challenge. but I see your pain. any water clean up product has to be made to be water compatible in it's uncured phase which also makes it suspectable to water in it's cured form. all about polar and non polar
exactly. then add in that silicones basically only have a 1 year shelf life and other issues and here we are lol