sooo.. what exactly have you installed? lift pump...?
Remember its such a huge list. Tons of parts to make yet only 600hp. Maybe, thats not even confirmed yet either. What i dont get is who cares? All this has nothing to do with triples!!!
Possible Triples Setup, will it work?
- Thread starter Yellow Jacket
- Start date
Remember its such a huge list. Tons of parts to make yet only 600hp. Maybe, thats not even confirmed yet either. What i dont get is who cares? All this has nothing to do with triples!!!
agreed, I was just trying to see if that could shut him up or if he would reply with a novel. :rofl:
sooo.. what exactly have you installed? lift pump...?
Smart ass.
Gauges and pod, efi live and dsp5, egr delete, manifolds and up pies, intercooler, trans cooler, upgraded trans cooler lines, 3" y bridge, ported fittings, FRPRV shim, pcv reroute, banks ram air and scoop, trans and diff deep pans, trans go jr, swaybars , exhaust and down pipe, shocks, tie rods, BT lock up box, cognito braces idler pivot assembly, ssbc brakes, cognito uca's, wheel bearings, H.I.D's all on mod, fuel sump, factory filter head delete.
Vgt72 12mm cp3 and 60's going in soon enough, and I will be installing those as well....
How's that?
Edit: yes I installed the lift pump.lol
Okay back on track guys.
This lol
Let's discuss the exhaust side of the spectrum. I'm going to assume that, ideally, a person would want the turbine/AR of the secondary to be larger than that of the primaries??
Ive always assumed if you are going to put triples on, you would want a tighter primary housing than you would secondary because the exhaust flow would be cut in half. something like a .91 or less A/R
I didn't buy the parts for to build a 600hp truck, tuff guy, that's just where I'm at now
Oh no, I will almost always reply
but coming from you, is almost like the comment was never madeThis, all of this b.s came from me asking and not backing down, for Tim to elaborate on this post.....oh boy, and whataya know, it pertained to turbos and triples set ups....so, you wanna tell me how I derailed this thread with stupid shit, I was only hoping for an answer.
And no Tim, my teachers didn't give me the answers to the tests in school:rofl:
Ahh, turbo basics??? Yeh, that was no help for the question at hand, but maybe you were just tryin to waste my time
From what I've read, you need a larger than normal a/r for the high pressure turbo when running trips or twins, to keep drive pressure and heat down, and just to help pass the added volume of air being force fed through the high pressure turbo. Aren't most guys running a 1.01 or bigger a/r ?
Another question thats been burning in my head, is: what about trim? How does the trim affect and play into things. For example, would having a larger or smaller trim# for the high pressure turbo help drive pressure and air flow?
Another trim question I've been searching for an answer to: would the trim of the compressor and turbine wheels affect spool in high altitude, I'm guessing yes, but I'm wondering if there is a formula or ratio that would allow better spool in elevation? Guys competing in the DPC that came from sea level had some huge issues spooling the turbos at altitude there in Colorado, and I'm wondering if there aren't small things a guy could do to get around that, like pick a more appropriate trim angle for different altitudes.
Probably just more stupid questions, but I appreciate the help:hug:
i was meaning for triples you wouldn't want a very large exhaust housing because your exhaust flow is cut in half, hence the smaller A/R for triples. For twins a 1.32 A/R is a good all around size that rarely needs to be waste gated over (if ever).
From what I understand, having a larger wheel on the secondary charger will allow for more flow of exhaust gases, but you lose drive ability. They are great on the top end because the wheel allows for more exhaust to flow, but you lose low end spool up performance.
And yes altitude affects spool up immensely. The air density isn't there for the motor to create heat which in turn spools the turbo. At higher elevations these trucks also have different tuning maps to follow depending on BAR pressure.
ex. you may be able to make 30 psi at sea level, but if you go to 6k elevation and push your turbo to make 30 psi, you can risk the chance of over speeding the turbo because the turbo has to work harder to make that much psi. That is why our trucks have 3 different desired boost level maps to follow depending on air density.
Jason, what you need to learn is that there is A LOT of information that nobody will ever post in a public manner that will then allow every tom, dick, and hary to try to go out and claim their fame. It's a sad but true fact, that even I challenge on this very board quite often. In my opinion, you should worry more about the setup you want to try in the near future instead of posting jibberish. Take the other guys' advice and read more, post less. Better yet, Dont post for 2 weeks, work more, work on your truck yourself more in those 2 weeks, and come back with what you've learned regardless of how petty. Build confidence in yourself and in what you've spent so much time reading about. If everything you've read ends up being wrong, Dont be afraid to post that either.
Please someone correct me if i'm wrong, this is how I have taken the information given to me.
This is how our motors react to altitude. The motor has three different maps to follow for boost, as well as timing and fueling.
an example is a stock tune that Im looking at in EFI live,
at 13.6 or higher Barometric Pressure at 2400 rpm's and 100 mm3 of fuel the engine requires 33.1 PSI of boost (14.2+18.8 (turbo)) which is a 132% increase of air required form the turbo
at 11.9 -13.6 Barometric Pressure at 2400 rpm's and 100 mm3 of fuel the engine requires 29.7 PSI of boost (11.9+17.8 (turbo)) which is similar to the 13.6 map because of the decrease of boost required. still requiring 149% increase of air from the turbo
at 10.2 - 11.89 Barometric Pressure at 2400 rpm's and 100 mm3 of fuel the engine requires 22.9 PSI of boost (10.2+12.7 (turbo)) requiring 124% increase of air from the turbo
an easy way to think of this is a turbo is an air multiplier, and if you ask for too much air with little pressure feeding into it, then it has to work alot harder. That is why twins work so effectively at higher elevations, because the air feeding the secondary charger is already the Barometric Pressure thats been multiplied twice over, so the primary doesn't have to work as hard.
Again correct me if i'm wrong.
This is how our motors react to altitude. The motor has three different maps to follow for boost, as well as timing and fueling.
an example is a stock tune that Im looking at in EFI live,
at 13.6 or higher Barometric Pressure at 2400 rpm's and 100 mm3 of fuel the engine requires 33.1 PSI of boost (14.2+18.8 (turbo)) which is a 132% increase of air required form the turbo
at 11.9 -13.6 Barometric Pressure at 2400 rpm's and 100 mm3 of fuel the engine requires 29.7 PSI of boost (11.9+17.8 (turbo)) which is similar to the 13.6 map because of the decrease of boost required. still requiring 149% increase of air from the turbo
at 10.2 - 11.89 Barometric Pressure at 2400 rpm's and 100 mm3 of fuel the engine requires 22.9 PSI of boost (10.2+12.7 (turbo)) requiring 124% increase of air from the turbo
an easy way to think of this is a turbo is an air multiplier, and if you ask for too much air with little pressure feeding into it, then it has to work alot harder. That is why twins work so effectively at higher elevations, because the air feeding the secondary charger is already the Barometric Pressure thats been multiplied twice over, so the primary doesn't have to work as hard.
Again correct me if i'm wrong.
100% I couldn't have said it better myself!
this thread started out well then it became a
Okay back on track guys.
What these guys are saying.
Still wanna know if you guys think two HE351CW (2004.5-E07 5.9 CR turbo) would work well over a stocker
I know where two hx35's are and mines going down for head gaskets this winter anyway. I might try it. with a little help from the guys on here. I know I can fab the stuff. that's easy, its all the turbo spinny thing science that makes me want to slap a huge single on it. but im not afraid to slap a few extra turbos on and see what happens. maybe it will give me an excuse to build my motor after it explodes.
You can do all the math in the world and the setup still won't work. Sometimes the only way to find if something works is to try it. What works in the real world and what works on paper from what I've seen are generally two different things.
maybe billet wheel hx35's polished ihi with a batmo:woott:, I have really been thinking about it. we will see. if yellowjacket does it first ill learn from him if I do ill share anything I can with everyone.
I think they would work great, better than the older hx35 versions if you ask me. They supply plenty of air on a tuned stock truck as a single for 500hp. With the 9cm exhaust housing they respond great, not sure if holset makes larger housings for them, but a low HP truck with triples may not need the waste gates hooked up.... Just speculation.