Plus my truck is too light for any nhrda class besides 10.90. Won't be racing it much anyways when it comes to that, just a Friday night truck.:rofl:
Not that it wouldn't be hard to put weight back in it hehe
Plus my truck is too light for any nhrda class besides 10.90. Won't be racing it much anyways when it comes to that, just a Friday night truck.:rofl:
I'm using lack of parts made up with dead weight. :roflmao:
They make a spot weld cutter bit, works great if you are trying to save the panels but if you are throwing the bed away then yeah a step bit is the best.
As for a true 4-link, D-bag has one on overkill but I remember several reputable racers saying that it weighed more than the leaf spring setup and he didn't have it dailed in worth a shit.
Thank u sir ur a lot of help. Classes don't really matter to me bc there's noting like that around here. Just index and bracket racing or run what u brung n hope it's enough! Lol where do u get those fasners to secure the skins with?Haha there really isnt much too it. its all about measuring, bending and notching. having a game plan ahead of time helps. this kinda stuff is what i do for fun. fabricating is fun and a pain in the ass at the same time lol
go down to an automotive paint store and buy a spot weld cutter. way faster than drilling and easier on you.
well most dont because of racing in certain classes. some do double classes and i dont remember what class it is but you have to keep the factory rear suspension in place.
So when are you letting me short bed it like we talked about?
If anything it would be my LBZ to become a short bed, but looking very hard at a new truck