Mike wrote back and said he'd recommend a full tear down, but if it just happened then a full flush and new filters might get it. Crap....I wish I knew when it actually started.
Oil in coolant
- Thread starter thunder550
- Start date
Well with it being that pink it can't have been long I wouldn't think.
If it was super white I would have thought longer
Mike told me to call him Friday, I guess we'll come up with a game plan then. I am really thinking it just started when I got the truck running, so only a week and 5-10 miles.
Are these common failures? I am wondering if I should bypass the radiator now and run a larger external cooler or if I'd be ok just to hook it back up like factory.
No it's not common & no you don't want to bypass the heat exhchanger in the rad. It primary goal is to knock the initial trans oil temp down to something that is manageable for the air to air cooler to handle...
Mike will probably chastise me for this but If it were mine I would flush the rad and the trans. fluid. I would monitor the spin on filter for a few thousand miles watching for clutch debris...
Ok. I'll just get a new OEM replacement radiator then. I am leaning towards doing a flush and filters, Mike indicated in one of his replies to me that I might be ok to do that. I'll talk to him Friday and get more details.
As far as the flush goes, I'm assuming one bucket with new fluid in it, one to catch the old fluid as it comes out, run it until the fluid comes out clean, drain and drop the pan, replace both filters, and fill again? And I'm assuming that I'll have to run the shifter through all of the positions and check the fluid output in each?
As far as the flush goes, I'm assuming one bucket with new fluid in it, one to catch the old fluid as it comes out, run it until the fluid comes out clean, drain and drop the pan, replace both filters, and fill again? And I'm assuming that I'll have to run the shifter through all of the positions and check the fluid output in each?
Chris I have off next Friday after new years, if you want to go to Mikes and drive back in a day towing it, we can jam out. I was going to go run the truck at the track but if you and Mike want to tear it down I'd rather do that. let me know.
cant catch a break man...
cant catch a break man...
I've seen it only twice in 23 years in the business, 14 years of that at GM dealerships.
I always recommend running thru the radiator first, then external cooler.
I always recommend running thru the radiator first, then external cooler.
A flush & filter did save a built 4L60e in a supercharged/cammed truck. It was #2 truck with intermix.
#1 intermix only lasted a couple of weeks.
If I was in your shoes Chris, I'd definitely flush & filter it. Nothing to lose besides the cost of fluids & filters.
#1 intermix only lasted a couple of weeks.
If I was in your shoes Chris, I'd definitely flush & filter it. Nothing to lose besides the cost of fluids & filters.
Thanks Roger.
Ok so what's the verdict...OEM radiator, or does it matter? Rockauto has Spectra, Pro, and AC Delco brands. Range in price from $170 to $330.
Ok so what's the verdict...OEM radiator, or does it matter? Rockauto has Spectra, Pro, and AC Delco brands. Range in price from $170 to $330.
I bought one from rock auto and the core thickness is smaller than factory cooler, but Ive never seen a ECT difference.
Performance radiator here in Phoenix had a good deal on a radiator for my old gasser too. Looks like they stock the LLY radiator. Price is a little lower than the AC Delco from RA.
I don't need the extra cooling, haven't had any issues with overheating and I don't tow. I think the core supports for the LBZ trucks are different, at least that's what I heard awhile back anyway.