Mods in my Sig running about a 650 hp file mostly flat grade and windy egts around 900 I saw max temp of 240* not towing........
Oil cooling
- Thread starter super diesel
- Start date
YEA! I love custom bumpers. Plenty of room for what ever cooler/coolers you want. Got plasma cutter?
Good Info. here guys! I have Brians old LBZ and recently put EPR twin kit on it. I installed a Autometer Phantom II oil temp. gauge at the same time. I live in Ohio and the weather has not co-operated enough for me to be able to drive it to check oil temps. The only info. i have is after the twin install i was able to take it out and put 50 miles on it. The outdoor air temp was around 35-40 degrees and my oil temp. was the same as my coolant temp around 170-180ish. Im waiting till springtime to get it out and see what the oil temp does with warmer weather. If it is going to be getting out of hand i will be installing a oil cooler ASAP because i strongly believe that the lower the oil temp. is the cooler it will keep the lbz pistons
I am thinking you guys should just go for better oil.
Did you know that Schaeffer's oil has been proven to lower temps 30 degrees or more in racing applications?
For $70 I would try the 9000 5w 40 just to see. It helped with my towing temps. I saw a 35 degree drop towing a 10,000 lb tow behind.
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Did you know that Schaeffer's oil has been proven to lower temps 30 degrees or more in racing applications?
For $70 I would try the 9000 5w 40 just to see. It helped with my towing temps. I saw a 35 degree drop towing a 10,000 lb tow behind.
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towing 7-10,000 my oil temp stays a hair below ect. ect towing for the last couple months (winter) hasnt gone above 195.
lbz with banks 6 gun on 2 while towing
intake, exhaust, intercooler, d/s i c tube, water meth, rotella 5/40 syn.
running empty for 700 miles yesterday 6gun on 6 - outside air temps low 30s, ect 185ish, oil 170 ish
lbz with banks 6 gun on 2 while towing
intake, exhaust, intercooler, d/s i c tube, water meth, rotella 5/40 syn.
running empty for 700 miles yesterday 6gun on 6 - outside air temps low 30s, ect 185ish, oil 170 ish
Interesting info. I would like to see field studies on this from a independent tester.
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I use the best soot control oil that is available for our trucks.. Petro canada 15/40. It has a higher base stock as well as viscosity index than both amsoil and schaffers but you cannot say one oil is better than the other without sampling it and testing its viscosity to check for how much the oil breaking down. I cant see just a differeny kind of oil dropping temps that much. Jmo.. Eggsack what are your temps with that oil? Just might give that oil a try if it really does work that much better.
This is my thoughts on it. I'm not convinced of running a synthetic over a petroleum oil in the motor to protect it against high thermal shear with temps that the motor isn't designed to run at and shouldn't be running at in the first place if the petroleum oil is doing it's job and cooling it (90% of the reason for the oil) and lubricating it properly (10% of it's job) at the proper operating temps. Plus when it reaches these temps where synthetics are needed (only 8-17% higher than petroleum), the operating tolerances are much closer which can cause scuffing between the moving parts not mention the particles already floating around in the oil that can accelerate the fact of wear and breakdown. A lot of folks use the synthetics and quite a few are proponents to AmSoil (AmWay) oil. My question is, "why?" when petroleum can do the same job (cool and create an oil film jacket for parts to ride on to eliminate wear) when the motor is operating at the temps it was designed to when cooled properly. Could the cost of a better cooler (if needed) off set the cost of running synthetics over the years and miles and wear factors? I cool it and purify it. I figure the vehicle will have enough issues to deal with over the years. So any way I can eliminate any costly repairs or failures is a plus. I'm taking one factor out of the equation.
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According to ect reading on 6 gun and autometer temp sensor in the port on bottom of oil filter base, yes.
This is what my stock motor stock turbo truck does. My oil temp gauge shows pretty consistently between 200 and 220 all the time. On a cold winter day, the oil temps will drop to about 180, but only if it is down close to freezing. The highest I have ever seen was about 240 or so, and that was when I was doing something extremely stupid with the truck. I don't really haul large loads often, so I have no idea what it does under load.
Back before I had an oil temp gauge when I had the stock motor with twins, I was towing a camper across Idaho in the summer (temps in the mid 80s to mid 90s). I bet the gross weight for both truck and trailer was somewhere around 14k lbs. Not at all what I would call a big load. On an hill, I would see my oil pressure drop to below 28 PSI. I don't know exactly what they were dropping to. I just know they were going below that because that where my TTS pumps shut off. This was with the truck in 6th gear running 75 mph (RPM was around 1700). I'm assuming the pressure was dropping so low because the oil temps were heating up and thinning the oil. At the time I was running Schaeffer 9000 5W-40 synthetic oil. The very next day I cracked a piston. I still don't think it was a coincident.
Back before I had an oil temp gauge when I had the stock motor with twins, I was towing a camper across Idaho in the summer (temps in the mid 80s to mid 90s). I bet the gross weight for both truck and trailer was somewhere around 14k lbs. Not at all what I would call a big load. On an hill, I would see my oil pressure drop to below 28 PSI. I don't know exactly what they were dropping to. I just know they were going below that because that where my TTS pumps shut off. This was with the truck in 6th gear running 75 mph (RPM was around 1700). I'm assuming the pressure was dropping so low because the oil temps were heating up and thinning the oil. At the time I was running Schaeffer 9000 5W-40 synthetic oil. The very next day I cracked a piston. I still don't think it was a coincident.
Ouch!!! And synthetics to boot. Correct. Thinning is the word. Could have started to crack the day before it broke and just had all she could stands, and she couldn't stands no more (as Popeye says). Good input Josh. Thanks.
I've had a oil temp gauge in the truck for almost 2 years.
Winter normal driving: 170ish
Winter heavy throttle / towing: 185-190ish
Summer normal driving: 185ish
Summer heavy throttle / towing: 200ish
Hottest I have seen mine get was about 205 maybe 210
(But I usually don't tow over 7k... and I don't tow that often)
Sensor is in the filter housing...
I run a mix of mostly Mobil 1 5-40 synthetic diesel oil with 2 quarts of Shaffers 9000 5-50w synthetic diesel oil mixed in...
Winter normal driving: 170ish
Winter heavy throttle / towing: 185-190ish
Summer normal driving: 185ish
Summer heavy throttle / towing: 200ish
Hottest I have seen mine get was about 205 maybe 210
(But I usually don't tow over 7k... and I don't tow that often)
Sensor is in the filter housing...
I run a mix of mostly Mobil 1 5-40 synthetic diesel oil with 2 quarts of Shaffers 9000 5-50w synthetic diesel oil mixed in...
Gone up the West side of Eisenhower or Vail pass holding the speed limit in Summer, Winter, empty, or towing anything?
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Been over Independence pass empty, and it didn't get hot.. but ambient up at that altitude was not very hot. With a load I'm sure I would have exceeded the 210 I've seen thus far. Like I said, only towing 7k or less doesn't work the truck as hard as some of these guys...
Just for clarification, the bottom port on the oil filter housing is return(cool) oil and the top port is feed(hot) oil.
Has anyone ran an oil temp gauge post factory cooler? understanably, we feel the cooler is inefficant but maybe that isnt the term for it.
If your coolant is running 210-220 up a big long hill with a load on the back and your oil temp is only hitting 240-250, is that due to the peak heat the oil can hit within out motors or is that because the factory cooler is actually efficant enough to keep the oil 30-40* off of its coolant temp? Its easier/quicker to cool something that is 100* hotter than what is trying to cool it compared to something that is only 30* hotter. there is more to it than just that but lets pretend all else is equal for the moment
So really, what i see is that maybe its not that our factory cooler is inefficent, its that we shouldnt be using coolant under hot/heavy condition to keep oil at an acceptable level since its threshold for heat is not too far off of peak coolant temps we see when under the same conditions.
Thinkin out loud :hug:
If your coolant is running 210-220 up a big long hill with a load on the back and your oil temp is only hitting 240-250, is that due to the peak heat the oil can hit within out motors or is that because the factory cooler is actually efficant enough to keep the oil 30-40* off of its coolant temp? Its easier/quicker to cool something that is 100* hotter than what is trying to cool it compared to something that is only 30* hotter. there is more to it than just that but lets pretend all else is equal for the moment
So really, what i see is that maybe its not that our factory cooler is inefficent, its that we shouldnt be using coolant under hot/heavy condition to keep oil at an acceptable level since its threshold for heat is not too far off of peak coolant temps we see when under the same conditions.
Thinkin out loud :hug:
Id also be curious of what the post temp is right after brians front cooler. maybe the facotry cooler is actually make his oil temp higher than what it could be?