No local water pumps available?

Jun 28, 2007
3,259
0
0
NE Pa
As far as parts store people being morons....most are, but you get what you pay for. Most people that have the brain power to know whats going on are going to be working somewhere making more $

Go to an old style parts store where the youngest employee is 65 and you should have better luck.
 

Gasuout

Johnny
Mar 20, 2008
2,188
0
0
Santa Ana , Ca.
Mitch that was John (Gasuout)

It's buried in here http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7929&highlight=waterpump

But, I'm too lazy to find it :physchic:

I'll try to keep it short and not bore you with one of my novels .

Yep that was me getting really good at changing pumps . 4th one was a charm and from Napa . Tom was right and remembered correct . The AC/delco pumps I kept getting were whining like a bad power steering pump at around 2000 rpm . After a few I looked very close at them and compared to my original from dealer and could see the gear was cut different and bigger base and skinnier tip of teeth . The angle on the cut of the gear wasnt meshing properly . On the third one I had enough . It was getting old pulling it apart . Especially the worries after first pump and dealer leaving balancer bolt loose and spun the balancer on crank 10 miles away after install by them . Was my new motor was shaking bad and only had 2000 miles on it . Accidents happen , but that sucked . Then the second pump same noise and they told me to just drive it . Went about 300 miles away and it must have got gear hot and expanded gear . Gear came off pump shaft and started free wheeling not turning pump shaft . Another pump , I knew I shouldnt have just drove it . Back to dealer and did it myself at dealer in my buddies bay . Finished it and started it and , you got to be shittin me ..... whirling like nobodys business . Thats it , no more dealer pumps for me , it was getting expensive and unreliable . And then started really trying to figure out what the hell was causing it . Im suprised more guys havnt run into this issue . Its not like my cam gear is different or something .

When I got last pump from Napa and compared to original I found it to be the same cut gear . Put it in and have not heard a noise out of it since .

My buddy at dealer put in a trouble to GM about these pumps and the gears not being the same profile . Never heard back about it . Cost me $100 dollars everytime at dealer and then ended up buying my own . Plus the nice tow bill from the balancer spinning . That was also not recovered from them by me .

Hell it was only $350 to go 10 miles , what a deal . :D:rolleyes:

Making sure you get the balancer bolt tight as hell is biggest concern doing these pumps . Last thing you want to do is spin it and sheer the pin . If you do spin one , dont drive it like that . Could easily break a crank driving it like that spun . I have proof of the damage possible and have a broken crank here out of my new motors block that did exactly that . Sheered pin and was driven and snapped crank behind rod journal #2 . Cool trophy though .

I use my 36mm socket and a 2ft breaker bar with my jack handle stuck over it to cinch the bolt good . locktite and using a new balancer bolt is a good idea also .

Wheeew , still turned into a novel . :rofl:

Johnny
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
I'll try to keep it short and not bore you with one of my novels .

Yep that was me getting really good at changing pumps . 4th one was a charm and from Napa . Tom was right and remembered correct . The AC/delco pumps I kept getting were whining like a bad power steering pump at around 2000 rpm . After a few I looked very close at them and compared to my original from dealer and could see the gear was cut different and bigger base and skinnier tip of teeth . The angle on the cut of the gear wasnt meshing properly . On the third one I had enough . It was getting old pulling it apart . Especially the worries after first pump and dealer leaving balancer bolt loose and spun the balancer on crank 10 miles away after install by them . Was my new motor was shaking bad and only had 2000 miles on it . Accidents happen , but that sucked . Then the second pump same noise and they told me to just drive it . Went about 300 miles away and it must have got gear hot and expanded gear . Gear came off pump shaft and started free wheeling not turning pump shaft . Another pump , I knew I shouldnt have just drove it . Back to dealer and did it myself at dealer in my buddies bay . Finished it and started it and , you got to be shittin me ..... whirling like nobodys business . Thats it , no more dealer pumps for me , it was getting expensive and unreliable . And then started really trying to figure out what the hell was causing it . Im suprised more guys havnt run into this issue . Its not like my cam gear is different or something .

When I got last pump from Napa and compared to original I found it to be the same cut gear . Put it in and have not heard a noise out of it since .

My buddy at dealer put in a trouble to GM about these pumps and the gears not being the same profile . Never heard back about it . Cost me $100 dollars everytime at dealer and then ended up buying my own . Plus the nice tow bill from the balancer spinning . That was also not recovered from them by me .

Hell it was only $350 to go 10 miles , what a deal . :D:rolleyes:

Making sure you get the balancer bolt tight as hell is biggest concern doing these pumps . Last thing you want to do is spin it and sheer the pin . If you do spin one , dont drive it like that . Could easily break a crank driving it like that spun . I have proof of the damage possible and have a broken crank here out of my new motors block that did exactly that . Sheered pin and was driven and snapped crank behind rod journal #2 . Cool trophy though .

I use my 36mm socket and a 2ft breaker bar with my jack handle stuck over it to cinch the bolt good . locktite and using a new balancer bolt is a good idea also .

Wheeew , still turned into a novel . :rofl:

Johnny

Thanks, I ran out of time to mess with it today but its getting done first thing tomorrow..
 

Gasuout

Johnny
Mar 20, 2008
2,188
0
0
Santa Ana , Ca.
Pm me or call if you get stuck on anything . 714-515-3675 Johnny

Belt off

Fan off the right tool to do , or a pointed air hammer . Its easy if you are precise with air gun . once you get the big nut moving it come loose easy . I ended up with a few perfect dots on bolts about 1/4 inch in from edge .

Starter off or secure flywheel through inspection hole if you have one .
If starter off to do , dissconnect battery .

Balancer off I have a few different tricks for this . Easiest is some serious leverage meaning long bar on breaker bar while holding flywheel or extension in hole in flywheel though starter hole . My gun wouldnt even fit in there in truck and even when motor out didnt break it loose with gun . It took a lack handle on breaker bar .

Intercooler tube off possibly too . To make access for breaker bar to loosen bolt in balancer .

Then attack the pump and R&R . Bolt pump down evenly .

Pay attention to gaskets and to get the O-rings on right when changing pump off body housing .

This is just me , but I reuse the gasket on the tube to oil cooler . It is better and reusable to the gasket you get in the box with new pump . you need to make that call . Ive use my original 3 times now with no leaks . This was per my dealer buddies recomendation .

Then reverse everything back together .

Definately need the 36mm 12 point socket . It needs to fit good . Its friggen tight . when you think it is tight , hit it with everything you got one more time .

Good luck brother and call if stuck

Johnny
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,248
550
113
42
in the buckeye state
i got a spare if needed. from when i was chasedin water in coolant propblem

dotn have any o-rings... more like dont knwo those went :rofl:


let me know and ill mail it too you
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
Thanks for the help guy's!!:hug: I got it done today and it did not go to bad.. I decided to leave the starter in and pull the radiator so I could access the 36m not on the balancer with the impact. It took a couple shots and the compressor had to build up full steam but it worked well. My T-wrench only goes up to 130lbs so I just layed into it with the gun on install so I would think there is more then enough on it 300lbs + I would think. I also used some blue loc-tight for a little extra piece of mind. All in all it was easier then I thought it was going to be, but I hope this will be the only one in the near future I have to change. Another big benifit of pulling the radiator was being able to blow all the crap and dust out of it, surprisingly there was quite a bit hanging on there between the intercooler and radiator. With an extra set of hands I would say its a 2hr job to do again. It took me about 5-6hrs this time but I also greased the front end, changed my air intake to flow a little better to my new LBZ mouth piece, re-did a ground wire that was starting to fray, and a couple other odds and ends.. Thanks for all the advice it came in handy for sure.:)
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
One question though, The keyway on the Harmonic balancer is surprisingly small, like a giant BB:rolleyes: When I read about getting the cam and crank keyed, are they adding a second larger keyway on both? or just re-machineing the originals for a bigger beefier keyway? I could definetly see the OEM keyway failing by the enemic look of it, A S.B. chevy 350 has a bigger keyway:confused:
 

Vrabel

TOYAHOLIC
May 22, 2008
3,434
0
0
57
Hewitt, NJ
Part stores are like garages, You want to find a guy who's been around. not some punk kid who automotive exp is installing an obnoxiously loud sound system in his buddies Rat-Stang
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,248
550
113
42
in the buckeye state
One question though, The keyway on the Harmonic balancer is surprisingly small, like a giant BB:rolleyes: When I read about getting the cam and crank keyed, are they adding a second larger keyway on both? or just re-machineing the originals for a bigger beefier keyway? I could definetly see the OEM keyway failing by the enemic look of it, A S.B. chevy 350 has a bigger keyway:confused:

same thing is on the camshaft as well :mad:

one of the mods i did was put a woodruff key in both

several people have sheared these pins and subsequentily destroyed enitre motors
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
0
0
52
Thailand
One question though, The keyway on the Harmonic balancer is surprisingly small, like a giant BB:rolleyes: When I read about getting the cam and crank keyed, are they adding a second larger keyway on both? or just re-machineing the originals for a bigger beefier keyway? I could definetly see the OEM keyway failing by the enemic look of it, A S.B. chevy 350 has a bigger keyway:confused:


FWIW i keyed both sides of the crank and regreted it:( It will make it more difficult to swap balancers. Something to keep in mind
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
FWIW i keyed both sides of the crank and regreted it:( It will make it more difficult to swap balancers. Something to keep in mind

What is the benefit of switching balancers? I believe I read about some guys having issues with aftermarket Balancers:confused: Can you still use your factory balancer after you change your Rods/pistons ETC.. to Aftermarket components with different weight?
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
0
0
52
Thailand
What is the benefit of switching balancers? I believe I read about some guys having issues with aftermarket Balancers:confused: Can you still use your factory balancer after you change your Rods/pistons ETC.. to Aftermarket components with different weight?
.

Yes you can still use the stock,But i would of preffered to use a SoCal balancer.Never heard of issues with Guys balancer perhaps the fluid dampner is what you read about