The right side axle housing is easily removed without pulling the diff. Pull the whole housing and see whats broke. The dealer I used to work at didn't stock that coupler but it was a day out.
No four wheel drive
- Thread starter WVRigrat05
- Start date
10-4 that's good to know, I need the part by Tuesday. Have to leave Tuesday night to head to Ohio for work, might be my last hitch if Rex energy doesn't fire back up.
Now when I pull the pass side of the housing, do I need to remove that hub (plate) that the axle bolts to before I unbolt the housing? Or just leave it on and pull axle and all?
Pull the whole thing in tact. If for some reason you need to remove the inner axle you will have much better workability with it off the truck, but you probably won't need to remove it anyhow
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Front end is apart, broke shift fork and slide collar stripped(clean break where it shoves against the slide collar) and busted the gears out of something else, I'll try to upload pics. I ****ed the teeth up on the axle too, going to file them and get the slide collar off.
I've had to file axle spins before it's no big deal. Don't have to be perfect condition to hold up
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Everything is cleaned up, filed the axle and parts will be here in the morning, well at the dealer. I'll have it back together tomorrow.
Also I forgot to mention.
Actuator motor was NOT burnt up, it was black and burnt smelling from running non stop.
Inside there is a lock for the motor end that turns these little plastic gears, the center was stripped out that went on the motor and the front end from my theory was not fully engaged or kicked out just enough. Still can't figure it out but whatever.
Now since I have an electronic transfer, if I do not have a functioning actuator the transfer defaults to two wheel peel.
I'm going to get hummer parts from the junk yard, buy a new actuator and bag it up inside of the engine bay so the transfer thinks it's working something.
Someone tell me if that won't work.
Seen an old man with his plow truck blow his front end out today too. We pulled the actuator and same thing, I didn't realize this was that common. Def. Going to upgrade parts soon.
Also I forgot to mention.
Actuator motor was NOT burnt up, it was black and burnt smelling from running non stop.
Inside there is a lock for the motor end that turns these little plastic gears, the center was stripped out that went on the motor and the front end from my theory was not fully engaged or kicked out just enough. Still can't figure it out but whatever.
Now since I have an electronic transfer, if I do not have a functioning actuator the transfer defaults to two wheel peel.
I'm going to get hummer parts from the junk yard, buy a new actuator and bag it up inside of the engine bay so the transfer thinks it's working something.
Someone tell me if that won't work.
Seen an old man with his plow truck blow his front end out today too. We pulled the actuator and same thing, I didn't realize this was that common. Def. Going to upgrade parts soon.
Just keep the solenoid installed like it's needed. Will be best there. Are you sure you need a new one though?
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That should work fine. Your front driveshaft will always be spinning if you convert to the hummer extension housing. Basically just like driving with locking wheel hubs always engaged. Just like you said as long as the TCCM sees a complete/correct circuit for the actuator everything will be kosher.
I'm 100% positive, tore it apart checked the guts and the motor works fine, the spline that slides over the motor shaft to spin the actuator stripped out somehow.
I found dorman replacements for 60 bucks.
And I looked at old threads and seen pics from others that have broke, the inside of the housing had a lot of gouges and huge marks, mine had two baby scratches, tells me it was the actuator that went and when it kicked out it broke the collar.
There is a plug you can put in where the actuator goes that will keep the slide collar engaged. Might try that before you put the hummer axle in. If you turn sharp on dry pavement with the front end "locked" in, even with it in 2wd, it will fight and bind the front end.
There are numerous vehicles that are setup this way from factory. He shouldn't have any binding unless there is a posi/locker installed in the front diff.
You don't need a hummer extension housing do you???? Atleast you don't with the fleece axle! Also why buy a new part if the whole purpose of it is to disengage something that you no longer have lol. So why not put that junk part back in, it's just for a hole cover anyways now
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My 1/2 ton actuator went out about 3 days ago. It was stuck in the locked position. In 2wd, it would bind the front end every sharp turn I took. The transfer case was not locked in 4wd either.
I'll look into it, no I do not need the hummer housing, just the axles. The shell and diff is very different from ours.
Well at least yours was stuck in the locked position. Anyway you feel like spitting your actuator and see if it burnt up or if it stripped like mine?
I think it was just the electrical part. I could get it to gonin and out sometimes. When it worked, it was fine, but it would randomly just go back to lock position. I took the one of my 2500 and just plugged it in and it worked every time so I ordered a new one. Found some eBay for $43 the part number is 26060073
Now that I have thought about it, wonder if my "Auto" transfer case is what was making it have the binding feel? I couple spin tires like it was 2wd but the front was noisey and binding during sharp turns.