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JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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Texas!!!
That's good to know. I'm gonna assume it has an NV 3500?

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I know the 92 I had way back in the day had the NV3500. I'm sure they were still using it in 94. I think my step dad's 96 still had the same transmission.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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I know the 92 I had way back in the day had the NV3500. I'm sure they were still using it in 94. I think my step dad's 96 still had the same transmission.

my 2000 NBS 1500 with the 4.3 had the nv3500 so i dont see why not? i think even the 4.8 in the 1500 with a manual was a nv3500
 

clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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Some of those trucks had a nv4500. It was a “granny low” 5 speed.

very desirable transmissions.

what’s the gear shift knob look like?
 

countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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Some of those trucks had a nv4500. It was a “granny low” 5 speed.

very desirable transmissions.

what’s the gear shift knob look like?
It does not have a granny gear. This is the only picture I have of it at the moment.
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JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,716
779
113
Texas!!!
Some of those trucks had a nv4500. It was a “granny low” 5 speed.

very desirable transmissions.

what’s the gear shift knob look like?
I think only the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks were available with the 4500.
 

clrussell

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Sep 23, 2013
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I think only the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks were available with the 4500.

Ive seen a few with the 4500 in a half ton. It wasn’t very common. Maybe part of the “heavy half” trucks that were around?
 

countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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Update:

Just got back from vacation and decided to start with the tune up. I just finished up changing out the spark plugs with new ones gapped at .035". The pictures show the plugs as found (gap and condition).
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countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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Next Update

New Plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap installed today.

Also, pulled off the passenger rear tire and drum to find the wheel cylinder leaking and the front reservoir in the master cylinder empty.
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countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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Follow up question to my last update:

With the brake master cylinder being divided into two sections, what does the front (smaller) section feed?

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NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
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At Da Beach
I had a 1992 red over gun metal sport Blazer as my first truck, I've never owned a car untill the Vette. Lol. I sure had a ton of fun in the old girl, your brining back some sweet memories with this one brother!
 

countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
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I had a 1992 red over gun metal sport Blazer as my first truck, I've never owned a car untill the Vette. Lol. I sure had a ton of fun in the old girl, your brining back some sweet memories with this one brother!
Thank you and I'm hoping to make a ton of memories with this one!

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clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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Follow up question to my last update:

With the brake master cylinder being divided into two sections, what does the front (smaller) section feed?

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the front section is for the rear brakes
 

countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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the front section is for the rear brakes
Thanks Corbin.

That makes sense as the reservoir was empty and the passenger rear brake was coated in brake fluid. That confirm that both drums are gonna get rebuilt. Now on to disassembly of the front brakes to figure out which one is dragging.

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countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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Also in need if an OBD I code scanner. Anyone have any recommendations?

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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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i think the cheap chinese ones work decent for them. ive used a buddies amazon special before and did the trick. obd1 is pretty simple stuff.

no way to have the check engine light flash the code/s?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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gm-aldl-connector.gif

use a paper clip and go to the ALDL connector (its what the obd1 scan tool would plug into). bend the paper clip into a U and use it to jump A and B together. dont worry, wont throw sparks or kill anything. it will put the computer into self diag mode and flash the check engine to match stored codes. you will get 2 stages of flashes kinda like morris code. it will do a quick blink/s then pause, then a quick blink/s again and pause. The first blink/s is the first digit of the code, second blink/s is the second digit of the code. once it does the first code, it will jump straight to the next numerically higher code and blick for the first and second digit like the first code. if will do a loop of all the codes until you pull the paper clip out. if you want to start over, pull the paper clip and put it back in, it will start at the beginning again. if it does one blink, then blinks twice, that code 12 which means no stored codes.

to clear them, pull the battery and let it sit for15-30 sec. it should clear the codes.
 

countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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View attachment 106121

use a paper clip and go to the ALDL connector (its what the obd1 scan tool would plug into). bend the paper clip into a U and use it to jump A and B together. dont worry, wont throw sparks or kill anything. it will put the computer into self diag mode and flash the check engine to match stored codes. you will get 2 stages of flashes kinda like morris code. it will do a quick blink/s then pause, then a quick blink/s again and pause. The first blink/s is the first digit of the code, second blink/s is the second digit of the code. once it does the first code, it will jump straight to the next numerically higher code and blick for the first and second digit like the first code. if will do a loop of all the codes until you pull the paper clip out. if you want to start over, pull the paper clip and put it back in, it will start at the beginning again. if it does one blink, then blinks twice, that code 12 which means no stored codes.

to clear them, pull the battery and let it sit for15-30 sec. it should clear the codes.
Thank you James!

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countrycorey

Trust Me I'm an Engineer
Jan 30, 2010
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Time for another update:

Drove it around town this afternoon running errands for about 30 minutes and it was starting to get warm (dash shows ~220) and the fan never kicked on. Starts, idles, and runs much better after the tuneup.

3. Once I got back from running errands, I found this (see pictures).


From this, I need to
1. rebuild both rear drums
2. replace the rear brake lines on the frame
3. replace fan clutch and thermostat.
4. new exhaust system as this one has a few large holes in it
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