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countrycorey

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Jan 30, 2010
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Anyone have suggestions on the best place to get replacement hardlines along the frame? May as well do both fuel and brake lines while I'm there.
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countrycorey

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I think lines to go sells -400 lines. Could check with Dorman too.
I'll have to go back and look at the vendor. I believe it's classic tube, but I found a kit to do the whole truck for under $400.

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countrycorey

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Update:

Other than driving it early in the morning as it has no AC, i haven't done anything to it in a week or 10 days.

So now to my next set of questions as I'm wanting to get the AC working
1. The compressor was removed and an idler pulley was installed, leaving the hardline unplugged and open to the environment. From the looks, the compressor should drop right in the cradle or am I wrong?
2. When purchasing a new compressor, what else should I replace with the compressor?
3. Where could I find a wiring schematic for the AC system (prolly wouldn't hurt to have one for the whole truck) to make sure all the wiring and plugs are good to go?

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Chevy1925

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compressor "should" drop in best i can see. replace the accumulator (the black cansiter thing the lines go to up on the firewall) but dont install it till your ready for the system to be vac down and re-charged. id probably even wait till the thing passes a vac check and pressure check just to be safe. There is dessicant in them and once open to atmosphere, it starts absorbing moisture. in a high moisture state, it would take about an hour or so before the dessicant is no good anymore. Id also get a new orifice tube. wouldnt hurt to repalce all the o-rings and seals you can as well (every joint will have one).

from there, lots of brake clean to back flush the system. spray a shit load of it down the pipes in the reverse direction of flow, then put an air hose to it and blow it all out. i like to put a porous rag on the end of the line to see what kind of crap im spraying out and if its clean or not. i keep filling and blowing out till i see it come out clean. remove the accumulator and orifice tube when you do this. you are just cleaning the lines, evap and condenser.

When you take it to the place that will be filling it (unless your doing it), bring them the orifice tube, accumulator and tell them the system has been completely flushed so it will need the appropriate amount of oil added back to the system. Ask if they wouldnt mind vac testing and pressure testing prior to the new accumulator install as you dont know how long its been apart and could have leaky hoses or seals. they should understand.
 

countrycorey

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Thank you James. Another issue I have is that green wire comes off of a switch on top of the accumulator that I have to find where it goes and reconnect it. That's one reason why I am looking for a wiring diagram.

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countrycorey

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James, any recommendations for where to get the compressor, orifice, and accumulator?

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Chevy1925

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I usually go to napa or rock auto. I don’t buy the cheap stuff. Usually middle of the road and a name brand if multiple options or best warranty. Napa is generally my number one stop before I go elsewhere
 

zakkb787

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James, any recommendations for where to get the compressor, orifice, and accumulator?

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FERM commented on one of my old posts of a good one to get. Might be the same for your truck too. Let me see if I can find the thread. James posted a lot of good info on replacement procedures too

edit: found it
 

countrycorey

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Thank yall for the info. Will be looking for those parts once this hurricane blows through here and hopefully doesn't hurt too bad.

Also, anyone know how to get the rear hatch/tailgate open? I can hear the latch pop with the switch on the dash but doesn't move when I try to open nor when I use the key at the rear lock/latch.

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countrycorey

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Time for another update.

Purchased a new AC compressor last week as I'm am prepping to get the AC going in the next few weeks. Also drove it around town for the first time in about a month due to a bout of 'rona and working nights for a diesel generator outage (100% tear down of an EMD V20). While driving around, the engine died and would not refire. After some initial troubleshooting, I believe the fuel pump has crapped out and will validate that maybe tomorrow. Also, I found this rear axle u-bolt while crawling around under the fuel tank.
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Chevy1925

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rubber mallet to the bottom of the tank where the fuel pump is can sometimes get the pump back going to verify thats the issue. 90s-2000s pumps would get bad spots in them and just stop working. at the shop i worked at, when they came in on a roll back, wed just jump under them real quick with a rubber dead blow and wack the shit out of the tank under the pump. 9/10 times we get it going to move it into the shop lol
 

countrycorey

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I'm gonna replace the fuel filter tomorrow and try to prime the system and see if that works.

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clrussell

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rubber mallet to the bottom of the tank where the fuel pump is can sometimes get the pump back going to verify thats the issue. 90s-2000s pumps would get bad spots in them and just stop working. at the shop i worked at, when they came in on a roll back, wed just jump under them real quick with a rubber dead blow and wack the shit out of the tank under the pump. 9/10 times we get it going to move it into the shop lol

haha yup we did the same. Easy diag fee As well
 

countrycorey

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So to update the no fuel issue, I crawled under the truck with a rubber mallet and smacked the tank a few times to no avail. Ok, sounds like maybe no juice to the pump then. So I found the fuel pump relay on the firewall under the hood and hot wired if after I found out which wire is 12v supply to the pump and voila, the pump works! So now I'm waiting on a new relay to come in to have it running again.

Also changed the fuel filter and will probably do an oil change while I have it down.

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countrycorey

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Next Update

Replaced the fuel pump relay and it starts and runs again. But now it seems like it has a stumble to it and it won't go above 1200 rpms without stumbling or stalling. I also can't hear the fuel pump running when the key is on (engine off) or when the engine is idling due to loud ass exhaust leaks. So I'm thinking the fuel pump is still pushing air out of the fuel line(s).

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Chevy1925

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Next Update

Replaced the fuel pump relay and it starts and runs again. But now it seems like it has a stumble to it and it won't go above 1200 rpms without stumbling or stalling. I also can't hear the fuel pump running when the key is on (engine off) or when the engine is idling due to loud ass exhaust leaks. So I'm thinking the fuel pump is still pushing air out of the fuel line(s).

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na it should push the air out pretty damn quick. may need to check and see if you have 10-12psi at or near the injector. i dont remember if the TBI systems have a service port for checking fuel pressure.
 

countrycorey

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na it should push the air out pretty damn quick. may need to check and see if you have 10-12psi at or near the injector. i dont remember if the TBI systems have a service port for checking fuel pressure.
Thats what I thought but wasn't sure. Does the fuel pump run with the key on (in the run position with the engine off) or only with the engine running?

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Chevy1925

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Thats what I thought but wasn't sure. Does the fuel pump run with the key on (in the run position with the engine off) or only with the engine running?

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the pump will run for a couple seconds when you flip the key to run and then shut off. when the engine is running, the pump runs the whole time. its basically a "prime" when you key on engine off