CV's should be level at take off. By mid summer we should know I plan on having it done to my truck along with 18" or 20" wheels and see how well it works.
New (TO ME) Drag truck project
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CV's should be level at take off. By mid summer we should know I plan on having it done to my truck along with 18" or 20" wheels and see how well it works.
I am thinking the same thing since I have 2 sets of 18" wheels sitting here now. I am going to look for a proxes or similar in a 30-31" 18... Something I can drive on the street but will pull 1.60's or better at the track.
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Very nice find! These trucks are not easy to find. Even wrecked they're hard to find. Well where I'm at anyways. Good luck with the build. I say, build the tranny, throw a lft pump on her, and spray the heck out of it! I've seen a crew cab go 11.74@ 115 with same mods. Or build the motor and do it right. lol
Very nice find! These trucks are not easy to find. Even wrecked they're hard to find. Well where I'm at anyways. Good luck with the build. I say, build the tranny, throw a lft pump on her, and spray the heck out of it! I've seen a crew cab go 11.74@ 115 with same mods. Or build the motor and do it right. lol
The plan as of now is to get the transmision, tuning, lift pump done this spring along with some suspension and cosmetic mods. Unless I give up another hobby or rob parts off my 05 I doubt the reg cab will see a built motor this year. I still think it could be a fun low 12 sec toy this year maybe even high 11's depending were it ends up weight and turbo wise. But thats purely speculation at this point and probably asking alot of a 200k motor. Eventually I would like to see it in the low 10's, high 9's but thats going to take some time and a good amount of $$$ :baby:
Awesome find Jason:thumb:....I was hoping to give the crew cab a good running this year but looks like I need to shed some wheight now to even come close:rofl:
It's all good, I will still be racing the CC this year (I believe). I did not really get to dial my truck in at all last season. The only semi clean pass I got was my first run down at E-town and my Intercooler boost coupler burst around the 1000' mark. I think dialed in completly the old CC has a high 10 in her
Either way I am looking forward to doing some racing this spring :thumb:
Totally understand the money thing. I think your right on with the numbers. Keep us posted.:thumb:
First of all, congratulations on a very nice truck and a damn good price. I may have missed it but is it all manual, i.e. windows and TC? Great if it is. Listen to OSUBeaver, he has the exact same truck that is a low 10 sec truck capable of high 9's. You can get your truck into the 11's easy with a little help from the squeeze until you decide to build the motor. My toy White Out has the over loads out T bars dropped all the way with 3 turns back on the right side, Caltracks and QA1's all the way around.
If you plan on building it for a specific class like Jerry said say SS in NHRDA then you can't have a 4 link or back halfed truck, you must have the battery(s) forward of the firewall and the fuel tank in the stock position. If you back half and 4 link it then you are into Prostreet and the price of racing goes up in a hurry if you want to be competitive. Plus the engine is on the ragged edge and get expensive in a hurry. We scattered two motors, three big turbos, three trannies and 3 tc's last year and that gets expensive in a hurry.
I'd keep it in the Superstreet class and until you get it built, try the 11.90 index class, that will be a fun class and lots of trucks to race. That's another problem with Prostreet, usually not many of them at a race and lots of waiting around and no one to race half the time.
I'm racing my truck both in SS and the 11.90 class this year. Looking forward to it and looking forward to watching the progress of your truck. Good Luck.:thumb:
If you plan on building it for a specific class like Jerry said say SS in NHRDA then you can't have a 4 link or back halfed truck, you must have the battery(s) forward of the firewall and the fuel tank in the stock position. If you back half and 4 link it then you are into Prostreet and the price of racing goes up in a hurry if you want to be competitive. Plus the engine is on the ragged edge and get expensive in a hurry. We scattered two motors, three big turbos, three trannies and 3 tc's last year and that gets expensive in a hurry.
I'd keep it in the Superstreet class and until you get it built, try the 11.90 index class, that will be a fun class and lots of trucks to race. That's another problem with Prostreet, usually not many of them at a race and lots of waiting around and no one to race half the time.
I'm racing my truck both in SS and the 11.90 class this year. Looking forward to it and looking forward to watching the progress of your truck. Good Luck.:thumb:
Damn that thing is clean for 200k+. Have fun. I can't wait until I get two trucks so I can dedicate one to doing all kinds of mods to and not have to work about not having a truck to drive.
As (MY) luck would have it, my new toy came with a bad injector or 2 Balance rates seem OK but 2 of them are a little high 4.1 - 3.8 the others are all + - 2..... After warm up it hazes white at Idle or when taking off from a stop. It does not haze when its cold, you are driving normal or romping on it. So now the big question is do I convert the truck over to a LLY top end since I have 80% of the necessary parts sitting here from my extra LLY motor? Or just bite the bullet and buy new Bosch (LB7) Injectors and have them honed to XX% and re-install with ARP's? I am just thinking since I have to pull the top end apart anyhow I might as well have the heads checked, re-surfaced, re-seat the cups and install New C grade H.G's and ARP's.. I am leaning towards keeping it LB7 at this point what do you guy's/gal's think?
BTW, I have extra LLY Injectors (Stock), Fuel rails and lines, LLY heads, Turbo, glow plugs (Not sure if there different), Wiring harness, upper/lower valve covers,,etc.. What else is entailed in the conversion? I know a couple of guy's already did this on here and I am going back to search for threads now,, but I am guessing for a 1 time (Hopefully) Injector change keeping it LB7 will be easier??
Balance rates seem OK but 2 of them are a little high 4.1 - 3.8 the others are all + - 2..... After warm up it hazes white at Idle or when taking off from a stop. It does not haze when its cold, you are driving normal or romping on it. So now the big question is do I convert the truck over to a LLY top end since I have 80% of the necessary parts sitting here from my extra LLY motor? Or just bite the bullet and buy new Bosch (LB7) Injectors and have them honed to XX% and re-install with ARP's? I am just thinking since I have to pull the top end apart anyhow I might as well have the heads checked, re-surfaced, re-seat the cups and install New C grade H.G's and ARP's.. I am leaning towards keeping it LB7 at this point what do you guy's/gal's think?BTW, I have extra LLY Injectors (Stock), Fuel rails and lines, LLY heads, Turbo, glow plugs (Not sure if there different), Wiring harness, upper/lower valve covers,,etc.. What else is entailed in the conversion? I know a couple of guy's already did this on here and I am going back to search for threads now,, but I am guessing for a 1 time (Hopefully) Injector change keeping it LB7 will be easier??
Also I remember a thread on here talking about ajusting something (Rail pressure, pulse width, OR something at idle to reduce white smoke? I spent 45 minutes looking for the thread and cant find it. It's odd in gear, driving its fine but Idling it smokes
at idle to reduce white smoke? I spent 45 minutes looking for the thread and cant find it. It's odd in gear, driving its fine but Idling it smokes
As (MY) luck would have it, my new toy came with a bad injector or 2
BTW, I have extra LLY Injectors (Stock), Fuel rails and lines, LLY heads, Turbo, glow plugs (Not sure if there different), Wiring harness, upper/lower valve covers,,etc.. What else is entailed in the conversion? I know a couple of guy's already did this on here and I am going back to search for threads now,, but I am guessing for a 1 time (Hopefully) Injector change keeping it LB7 will be easier??
add injector hold downs to that and you should be all set. when Ben and I can get back to finishing the wiring on mine Ill take pictures and be able to help a little more...........but my opinion is do the swap, you wont regret it.
I have extra Injector hold downs aswell, I dont have a Extra LLY ECM/TCM though. The wiring is the part I want nothing to do with. Maybe I can do all the mechanical and then put it on a trailer and ship it to you and Ben to wire up
I'd leave it an LB7. To me, 3.8 and 4.1 aren't that bad. I was thinking like 7 was bad?? Also, why are you talking about pulling the heads? You can do injectors on an LB7 in a day.
You could pull all the injectors and have them sent out and tested while you have the tips extrude honed.
You could pull all the injectors and have them sent out and tested while you have the tips extrude honed.
Good news is that if you leave it all LB7, it's not like your probably going to rack up tons of mileage and have to replace them again w/ it being a race truck...