NEED ASAP!!! 911 HELP Need an intermediate plate!!!

[TheBac]

Thanks Larry! Ben offered to lend me his seal tools. Funny how I have to go back to Harbor Freight and buy that giant torque wrench again. LOL

You dont happen to recall what size the rear block bolts are, do you? 12mm? Not the trans mounting bolts, but the ones the rear cover uses to bolt to the block?
Need to know for mounting the engine on the engine stand.


Sorry for the hyjack, Mr Moore. I figured it may also help you.

 

[68skylark455]

Your welcome, anytime I can help just call or pm me. I may not be a good tuner, or fabricator but after we did Blackie I can probably pull it out and put it back with my eyes closed-was a very BIG learning expirence. Also learned if you pull the 2 front bodybolts under the fenders and loosen the others in the cab you can raise the cab 3" to clear the big turbo and make it eaiser to remove it-5+ times now!

 

[68skylark455]

Thanks Larry! Ben offered to lend me his seal tools. Funny how I have to go back to Harbor Freight and buy that giant torque wrench again. LOL

You dont happen to recall what size the rear block bolts are, do you? 12mm? Need to know for mounting it on the engine stand.


Sorry for the hyjack, Mr Moore. I figured it may also help you.

I think your right. Harbor frieght also has the 2000# engine stand for $129. I works better then having a 4x4 block hold up the front of the block when you put in the crank and pistons.

 

[TheBac]

:rofl: That stand was no longer available at our HF. I bought a 1250lb'er at Sears. I'll make sure I have some 4x4s handy.

 

[JoshH]

I'm a little confused on why you need to pull the motor to swap the plate out. It's a ton easier to drop the trans,and there is no need to drop the upper oil pan do do this. The only oil pan that needs to be removed is the stamped steel one, and that can be done by simply removing the cross member that runs under it. 4 bolts and it's out of the way.

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

I'm a little confused on why you need to pull the motor to swap the plate out. It's a ton easier to drop the trans,and there is no need to drop the upper oil pan do do this. The only oil pan that needs to be removed is the stamped steel one, and that can be done by simply removing the cross member that runs under it. 4 bolts and it's out of the way.

You can do it that way but you also have to get the oil cooler bolts and the turbo drain. The flex plate bolts are something terrible also. To me pulling the motor will make it easier in the long run.

 

[68skylark455]

Its also difficult if you can't lift the truck high enugh to get in a 3 foot long torque wrench.

 

[68skylark455]

:rofl: That stand was no longer available at our HF. I bought a 1250lb'er at Sears. I'll make sure I have some 4x4s handy.

correct placement of wood

what it looks like removing and replacing and the steering shaft

 

[JoshH]

You can do it that way but you also have to get the oil cooler bolts and the turbo drain. The flex plate bolts are something terrible also. To me pulling the motor will make it easier in the long run.

I agree, it would be easier, but I think it would also be more time consuming.

 

[TheBac]

correct placement of wood

I have a different definition for that ^^^. It involves my wife. :thumb:



Thanks for the visuals, Larry. Helps a lot. Man, thats a lot of orange!

 

[68skylark455]

It disappeared under all the crap on top
then, to top it off he went mudding and got stuck-ruined the polished coated header look.
Now, the new ones are ceramic coated black-no fender wells-no polish
I talk like its my truck-I wish

 

[68skylark455]

I agree, it would be easier, but I think it would also be more time consuming.

Actually, its probably about the same if its 4x4. The motor is really a "plug and play" deal and you don't have to lay on your back. I am going to pull the trans to replace the rear main seal and am still trying to find a big and safe enough tranny jack that will go high enough with the truck on stands-my lifts are rated a 7000# and won't pick it up
I still say pulling is just eaiser. Not sure if he has to pay for labor so that might also be a factor.

 

[JoshH]

Actually, its probably about the same if its 4x4. The motor is really a "plug and play" deal and you don't have to lay on your back. I am going to pull the trans to replace the rear main seal and am still trying to find a big and safe enough tranny jack that will go high enough with the truck on stands-my lifts are rated a 7000# and won't pick it up
I still say pulling is just eaiser. Not sure if he has to pay for labor so that might also be a factor.

Average time to pull a motor is 5 hours (give or take) and average time to pull a trans is 2 hours (give or take). Assuming the same install times, that gives you 6 hours of extra time leaving the engine in the truck. Even if you took your time, you could easily swap the part out in 6 hours. You could have the job done in the amount of time you would spend just pulling and installing the motor. Of course, everyone has their own preferences on how to do a job. All that matters is what the person doing the work wants to do.

 

[68skylark455]

^^ Agreed. We aren't doing the work they are.

 

[jdlover1]

I know you are replacing the rear cover but here is some food for thought. There is a coolant passage that runs through the block that is connected to the heads. When the passage get overflowing with coolant it dumps it out at the back of the block making it leak coolant inbetween the motor and tranny. Usually this is caused by the oring being bad on the metal coolant pipe going into the theromostat housing. I actually had that problem but come to find out it was the coolant hose on the turbo torn.

 

[TrentNell]

I would def reomve the trans to swap a rear cover , it takes 1/2 the time to drop the trans then pull the motor , not to mention its easier to crack the fly wheel bolts with the motor in the truck , the disclamer is if i had to do it on the ground ( no lift ) I might pull the motor i hate working on my back . But i would not pull a thing untill i verified the leak 100 % like stated it could be coming from another spot .

 

[moorekh]

part will be here thurs. and tear down will be friday (hopefully) and I hope to have this thing back on the road by the end of next week. and it's for sale, I'm going back to a Dodge
Anyone interested?, it's a SUPER NICE truck, lly w/ transbrace, pump rub fix, new fluids, new nsbu switch, afe air intake, dsp5 w/ efi live tune(s), 18'' Helo Maxx 8's wrapped in near new 33'' Cooper stt's, ALL black lights, every opt. but sunroof. EVERYTHING on this truck works as it should except the lights in the sterring wheel are burned out. Clean truck that anyone thats seen it can verify. I can have pictures of it late this week if anyone is interested. It has 150k miles and you will not find a nicer truck for the asking price. $16,500 OBO, heck make me an offer without it being worked on and you can have the fix and do the labor yourself an have a truck REALLY cheap :thumb: It's in central Kentucky.

 

[moorekh]

it's the truck in my profile pic...

also has billet grill, black bowtie, and a 6'' tip and I cant get pic's till it's already being tore down cause the truck is about 75 miles away I can say it's the plate thats cracked and needs replaced if someone wants it with out me fixing it first. But as of friday the price goes to 16,500 OBO, one might just be surprised what would buy this truck.... hint hint

 

[moorekh]

this is the build sheet and everything on it...

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19586

 

[Josh2002cc]

So out of all the guys here who say not pulling the motor is easier, who has actually done the job this way. I am being told the harmonic balancer needs to be pulled, water pump needs to be pulled, oil cooler needs to be pulled, both pans need to be pulled, oil drain for turbo needs pulled...sounds like one heck of a job to get done while the motor is in the truck. So, who has actually done this....?