LBZ: My turn has come...

DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
450
0
16
Prince George, BC, Canada
Wednesday morning I bid farewell to cylinder #2. Looks like I lost an injector and put a hole in the piston. Happy 400k present while out of tow. Yay me!

While I may not be doing a full on build yet, I have gotten the green light on a build none the less. I'm budgeting for $25k. That includes labour and a low mileage motor (64000kms on it) which will eat up about 11k leaving me potentially with 14k. Remember, this is the Canadian dollar I'm dealing with.

I'm thinking NOW is the time to do my exhaust, downpipe, intake, manifolds, up pipes, y pipe, bridge, intercooler and pipes. I would love to squeeze danvilles stg2r 68mm into there as well. The idea being that it's fairly simple to swap this stuff over later since the broken motor will get pistons, rods, studs, fuel system, etc down the road. This is all in prep for the end goal with twins.

Here's were I need the knowledge of you fine folks on what components work with what, what has fitiment issues and what doesn't, what will help and what won't do anything.

I am looking at the mishimoto intercooler and piping kit, max flow mani and up pipes, 4" turbo back exhaust, sdp y pipe and bridge, s&b intake, and obviously a downpipe. My first and foremost goal is lower temps as I'm sure this was the culprit in the destruction of my current motor. Beyond that, I'm clueless.

Hopefully if your reading this you have suggestions to help an enthusiast out, or else you are looking into a build yourself, hopefully not under the same circumstances. Whatever the case, thanks for any help and your time reading this.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
If I was you I would ditch the new motor idea. Keep your block and put a new crank, cut lb7 pistons bored however much over is needed, and upgrade your rods. Whether it be the more budget minded rods like Brian crower or the new Wagler, or full on with carillos. Ideally even with all that you won't be at 11k. New cp3 possibly upgraded like a super sport or 10mm. 60 overs. I'd do 5" stainless just because I like the sound better. And if you tow a lot and are worried about temps, leave your stock turbo and do a twin kit with an s475. This setup will give you great power and most likely stay in your budget and give you a much stronger base to build on. Doing all that work and leaving a stock bottom end, it'll be out with a broke rod again if you're not careful.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
I've always planned on fingers ovals, might look into those with some of the new wagler rods. AF crank or stock keyed crank?

I don't see the point in going with such a high hp piston and skimping on rods... I'd go keyed crank. No point in doing an af cam on a used crank
 

Chad006

Drag racer wannabe
Feb 12, 2015
311
5
18
Goodlow, B.C.
Remember wagler rates that assembly at 800 flywheel hp not rear wheel. Not saying it couldn't be sufficient for more as I'm sure it would, just something to think about.
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
I don't see the point in going with such a high hp piston and skimping on rods... I'd go keyed crank. No point in doing an af cam on a used crank

Why not, you couldn't kill these motors if it wasn't for the garbage that's in them, I want something that'll hold up to abuse, I sure don't need 1000 horse ponies to abuse something.
 

lutzjk913

Well-known member
May 5, 2010
1,674
165
63
groveport, ohio
Why are you buying a junkyard engine and building it?

I think it would save to pull yours and completely go through it and replace. Especially at a 11k price tag.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
He's saying he'd go fingers even without the HP thinking they'd prove more robust, cuz he drives like a nut.

Ah now I get it. Yes I could see that but not everyone drives like Reger from what I hear. And if the OP was going to use a stock bottom end to begin with, I don't see why cut lb7 pistons wouldn't be plenty for his power goals. Especially within his budget.
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,892
470
83
TX of course
Maybe its just me but I didn't even get this thread. OP needs to build and engine on a budget, but most of what he talked about was external mods IE exhaust, turbo, and intercooler. That's $5k right there....

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zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
Maybe its just me but I didn't even get this thread. OP needs to build and engine on a budget, but most of what he talked about was external mods IE exhaust, turbo, and intercooler. That's $5k right there....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

My thoughts exactly. That's why I said what I did. Spend your budget in intervals and parts that aren't easily upgradable and bolt on. Then in the future when you want more then do bolt ons
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,621
5,743
113
Phoenix Az
so are we building the motor or not building the motor cause im reading mixed stuff here... building it does not consist of the bolt on parts that are going on outside of the engine. you may know but im just clarifying :D
 

M.A.M.

Member
Jan 9, 2016
429
7
18
Ohio
I'd say pull and build the one you got. No point splitting the budget between two engines. Buy a $500 beater if you need something to get around for now.


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Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,892
470
83
TX of course
X2 if you have a budget. heck spend $5k on a beater if need more then a junker and put some money in it and sell it for $6k so you can break even on taxes etc...


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DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
450
0
16
Prince George, BC, Canada
Ok, seems some clarifying is in order. I had planned to get a used motor and slap bolt ons on to get me by while I tore the old motor down and built the internal stuff on that, then it would be a matter of just swapping that motor back in when I had the time. That said, it might make more sense to get a complete motor from SoCal then, get the new injectors I want and slap that in, then do as you suggest and put the bolt ons on after. This was originally what I was looking to do.

I have 400k on my engine, the used one I found is at 64k. It's 6500 bucks and no core. The other $4k is to get a shop to swap out motors to get me on the road so I'm lot losing money as this is my busy time. I have a slow down usually in late winter and early spring to re pull and swap motors again.

It sounds as if I'm doing this all wrong from my end though. I have a lot on the go right now so my thinking can be a little scatter brained so hang in there with me. That's why I'm asking questions and getting advice here from those of you who have done this before, you know the right way to go about this.

In a nut shell, I should be focusing on getting the motor out of my truck, have it checked for damage, repaired if needed, then get the rods and pistons and crank, do the studs, head gaskets, oil pump and water pump, get my injectors, get cp3 if funds remain. Everything on the outside can wait. Does that sound about right?