LBZ: My turn has come...

Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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dont rush this process. its only going to cost you more in the end. if you have the coin to spend, then go for it. if you want to save some, slow it down some and dont waste 6500 on a 64k km engine (that is way more than i would pay for an LBZ engine regardless of miles, so many unknowns there).

A socal engine would be a great way to go for a drop in engine and save you time/headache. otherwise, get that engine in the truck pulled, have it torn down and see if that blown piston cyl can get by with just a .020 bore or if it will need a .040 bore. you need to know this since you will most likely be changing pistons. with 258k miles (400k KM), your piston to wall clearance is going to be high even before a hone to clean up the cyl that lost the piston. i would just plan on boring it at this point.

What is your realistic end HP goal, how much will the truck get driven and at what HP do you want to DD on?
 
Dozerboy

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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Ok so you need your truck running for work and can't buy a beater to use until it's built.

800hp is your end goal or more because a 68mmVVT twined will do 1000hp?

I think your on the right track now. You might wait on injectors and/or the CP3 if money it tight. And just have the shop swap in the injectors and CP3 from the 64k engine to your newly built engine when it gets installed.






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M.A.M.

M.A.M.

Member
Jan 9, 2016
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Ohio
I see where you're coming from if your truck is where your income is coming from. Do what you need to do to get back on the road, and see what you have left. Ideally, find an engine to drop in the truck, do whatever bolt ons you want. Then take your time and think the build thru. You can always swap bolt ons to the built engine when you swap again. Don't expect the drop in engine to live real long, depending what you do to it.


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T

TheDirty06

New member
Sep 28, 2014
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Horton, KS
I just spent 28k on a full build. But it took me a year to collect parts. I made sure all the important parts were new and when I found a deal on here for a turbo or whatever I snagged it up. So keep that in mind on external parts. Personally if you use it for work I'd shoot for around a 700 to 800hp will probably be a little more reliable
 
DaJokr

DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
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M.A.M. said:
I see where you're coming from if your truck is where your income is coming from. Do what you need to do to get back on the road, and see what you have left. Ideally, find an engine to drop in the truck, do whatever bolt ons you want. Then take your time and think the build thru. You can always swap bolt ons to the built engine when you swap again. Don't expect the drop in engine to live real long, depending what you do to it.
Click to expand...

This is pretty much where my scatter brain was for logic. The reason for so much attention to the bolt ons is I have now seen first hand what hear does to the internals. I've been running my truck on a 150 tune for dding and a 230 tune at the track. I stopped running my 230 tune due to temps climbing super fast and it honestly didn't "feel" any faster...except at getting hot. Don't get me wrong, it shaved time on my 1/4 time but not nearly to the extent I saw between stock and that 150 tune. I was 15.4ish stock and that 150 tune pushed me to 13.5 I think it was. The 230 to 150 only squeezed out a 13.2 which seemed disappointing at first considering I built the trans before I ran that hot of a tune. The bolt ons were always the last thing I invested in to this point, which at this point was probably the largest contributing factor.

My intake was to restrictive (stock. With a new filter doing a wot pass I pulled the filter minder from 100% to 0% everytime) and I never did the exhaust which should have been done ages ago.

M.A.M that was exactly my thoughts, throw these bolt ons on, keep power level at 150 or even less, although with those bolt ons I will have a minute power gain but should have a large benefit to reduced temps. Then spend the rest of the budget on the wrecked motor which, fingers crossed, might actually still be ok inside. I will need to upload the video, but other then blowby and the motor really rocking, the engine is quiet...

Ignoring the bolt ons then, and looking at the internal side of things, how would you proceed for upgrades? 800hp is the first goal, the reason for the turbo I chose was to upgrade the stock unit with something that will outperform the stock unit, and the fact the 68 spools quicker and has a stronger turbo brake is a huge draw. Secondly, yes I planned on compounds, because although I love whiplash with a single, I prefer a steady pull and it will have better towing characteristics. Plus it seems to me that having a huge hit in power is harder on things then a gradual and consistent pulling.

Lord, I went on a tangent again. Sorry guys.

Bolt ons to get me by on a used motor and keep the income flowing (hotshots), then once the built motor is complete and swapped in, it's just a toy/dd. while 1000hp would be awesome, I could see me staying below 800 for daily activities, but higher being nice for a trip or 2 at the track before getting thrown out. Compounds may be overkill for what I want to do, but if I never get to the compounds, I'd be happy with the 68 as a single still.

EDIT: link to yt of the engine running. https://youtu.be/c8D3S0YmWlI
 
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Dozerboy

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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Look if you put 400k km on your truck at that power level your truck owes you nothing. Your lack of an intake and exhaust has nothing to do with it. So slap an intake/piping and exhaust on your truck now fine, but other exhaust and intercooler parts ain't worth it.

I think you might be falling for a little internet BS on the 68 though. While I don't have one I find the idea that it spools faster and the brakes better then a stock lbz turbo very unlikely. It also maxes out at 750hp. It's a great turbo, but it's performance gets exaggerated a little bit.


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DaJokr

DaJokr

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Mar 7, 2013
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It's only been running at that power level the last 150k. I bought the truck with 236k on it. It's been tuned the last 4 years. Tranny was built at 299k. That will need a refresh down the road as well as some hard part upgrades for the new power. It was build to handle about 550-600hp. No hard parts were replaced, just what came with the kit from suncoast and some direction from Mike.
 
WolfLMM

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
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The 68r with heads, cam, good manifolds/up pipes, and machines intake face for the clam shells will be real dang close to 800hp. Of course you will need fuel upgrades like pump and 100s 200s (whatever size fits your goal). The 68r really comes alive with more fuel, it’s a blast and spoolup is pretty close to stock once you hit it with more fuel. It’s also a great platform to twin over. These are JMHO based on experience with my own truck.
 
DaJokr

DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
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If I just build my current block, I'm gonna need injectors. Energy still the way to go? Sportsman cp3 be enough for now? Can use the stock cp3 for dual fuel down the road.
 
Dozerboy

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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IMO just get a stroker when your ready, but I don't like dual pumps. 10 is good for 800hp 12mm if you're know your going to twin it. You can't take a pump off your truck and let it t sit around they go to crap being off a truck.


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WolfLMM

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
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I like a striker too, less crap under the hood. S&S makes a quality pump also.
 
Dozerboy

Dozerboy

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Jun 23, 2009
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I have their pump and know they have good injectors, but I'm still on the stockers. So I haven't researched them yet.

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Novak

Novak

SQUIRREL TRYN TO GET A NUT
Jun 15, 2015
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Cloud 9, IDAHO
Get a 12MM stroker pump. You can find a lot of threads on here where duals can bring headaches if you aren't familiar with them (not saying you aren't)

You'll get your 10MM and get hungry for more eventually. I mean isn't that why we are all here?


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