Will you be using the GPCM or deleting the glow plugs? It looks like that's what they use the 175amp for.
My Country Boy Limo. 06 LBZ
- Thread starter 1TRIKHD
- Start date
Glow plugs are going away. The GPCM wire comes off one side of the 125amp fuse all by itself.
Levi is where I get all my blankets we sell/install. I have a prototype blanket here I need to try for fitment before the product goes live on his website, I really should get around to that or have a forum member try it out.Makes me happy to hear Levi is still in business.
@1FastBrick, is there an engine in your truck currently?
An LLY with an unmolested FICM under 130k miles. That's where I took all the signal captures for the FICM thread.
Decided to get myself a mechman 370amp alternator for the truck. A Christmas gift to me. Also looking at getting a aluminum radiator with dual 16" brushless spal fans. Have a choice between 2.25" core and 2.75" core for the radiator. Not sure what I will go with. Thoughts?
Company I'm looking at is called Wizard cooling out of Buffalo, Ny. I won't be running any AC in the truck since here on the west side of Washington state, it doesn't get to hot that often.
Relay that will turn the fans on at 190°, and will be at max cfm flow once it gets to 215°. Thoughts? 6400cfm max flow. My truck is strictly street/strip truck. Humidity isn't an issue around here either.
Anyways just want to post what I've done and what I'm thinking of doing. OK, fellas let me know what you think. Appreciate all the feedback!
Company I'm looking at is called Wizard cooling out of Buffalo, Ny. I won't be running any AC in the truck since here on the west side of Washington state, it doesn't get to hot that often.
Relay that will turn the fans on at 190°, and will be at max cfm flow once it gets to 215°. Thoughts? 6400cfm max flow. My truck is strictly street/strip truck. Humidity isn't an issue around here either.
Anyways just want to post what I've done and what I'm thinking of doing. OK, fellas let me know what you think. Appreciate all the feedback!
Good Question. I wonder if the 2.25 is like a factory replacement type and the 2.75 maybe like and advanced cooling option.
SKU:1-9592-110
SKU:1-9592-210
SKU:1-9592-110
- THICKNESS OF CORE: 2.25 in
- TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER INCLUDED: Yes
- MOUNTED AC CONDENSER: No
- INLET LOCATION: Passenger Side
- OUTLET LOCATION: Passenger Side
- TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER TYPE: Plate
- TANK MATERIAL: Aluminum
- OUTLET HEADER WIDTH: 3IN
- OUTLET HEADER LENGTH: 23 IN
- OUTLET DIAMETER: 1 1/2IN
- MOUNTING TYPE: Pin
- INLET DIAMETER: 1 1/4 IN
- INLET HEADER WIDTH: 3IN
- INLET HEADER LENGTH: 23 IN
- ENGINE OIL COOLER INCLUDED: No
- DOWN FLOW OR CROSS FLOW TYPE: Cross Flow
- CORE WIDTH: 34 IN
- CORE ROW QUANTITY: 2
- CORE MATERIAL: Aluminum
- TUBE INSIDE DIAMETER: 1IN
- FINISH: Aluminum
- CORE HEIGHT: 23 IN
SKU:1-9592-210
- THICKNESS OF CORE: 2.75 in
- TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER INCLUDED: Yes
- MOUNTED AC CONDENSER: No
- INLET LOCATION: Passenger Side
- OUTLET LOCATION: Passenger Side
- TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER TYPE: Plate
- TOTAL CFM (ALL FANS): 6400
- TANK MATERIAL: Aluminum
- OUTLET HEADER WIDTH: 3IN
- OUTLET HEADER LENGTH: 23 IN
- OUTLET DIAMETER: 1 1/2IN
- MOUNTING TYPE: Pin
- INLET HEADER LENGTH: 23 IN
- INLET HEADER WIDTH: 3IN
- INLET DIAMETER: 1 1/4 IN
- ENGINE OIL COOLER INCLUDED: No
- DOWN FLOW OR CROSS FLOW TYPE: Cross Flow
- CORE WIDTH: 34 IN
- CORE ROW QUANTITY: 2
- CORE MATERIAL: Aluminum
- TUBE INSIDE DIAMETER: 1 1/4IN
- FINISH: Aluminum
- CORE HEIGHT: 23 IN
I don't tow at all with my truck. Just a street and strip truck
Personally I would use a stock radiator as it is easily capable of cooling these trucks. Dustin Mintern has a very nice brushless SPAL fan setup he has made and sells. It's the best e-fan setup on the market IMO and will keep most trucks cool but it does come with a decent price tag.
In my opinion aftermarket radiators are nice but aren't giving us much of a benefit other than the shiny factor. That's simply my opinion as I've never had a cooling issue even on trucks that are street driven making 1500whp+. My LLY was ~1340whp and had no issues staying cool, my friends LLY made 159X whp on Dan's dyno and has no issues staying cool. Both of those are with OEM radiators (hell mine had ~300k on it).
I also say that as the LBZ+ radiator is larger overall than 01-05 and thus should be even better. The key in my opinion is a good fan setup (Kennedy/Hayden clutch, solid hub, or a good e-fan setup)and good thermostats (GM).
In my opinion aftermarket radiators are nice but aren't giving us much of a benefit other than the shiny factor. That's simply my opinion as I've never had a cooling issue even on trucks that are street driven making 1500whp+. My LLY was ~1340whp and had no issues staying cool, my friends LLY made 159X whp on Dan's dyno and has no issues staying cool. Both of those are with OEM radiators (hell mine had ~300k on it).
I also say that as the LBZ+ radiator is larger overall than 01-05 and thus should be even better. The key in my opinion is a good fan setup (Kennedy/Hayden clutch, solid hub, or a good e-fan setup)and good thermostats (GM).
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Problem is, thicker core is more air restriction too which becomes far more evident with electric fans over mechanical.
Personally I’d just stick with stock and those e fans you want. Other big issue with all aluminum is when the core support flexes, it likes to flex the radiator and crack it. Main reason the mishimoto suck ass. Even my Ron Davis cracked and needed more support per Ron.
Cooling for street/strip isn’t going to be an issue. I’d also run the fan to come on at t-stat opening temp, so 185 have them come on and then full bore by 195. Don’t let the fans get behind, keep them ahead if possible. Will help when hot lap or happen to get the right combo of summer heat and hard on her that causes it to heat up
I did opt for the thicker core 2.75" compared to the 2.25". I won't have the A/C condenser out front, so that might help out some with less restriction for the fans. Temp sensor that I bought through the same company is set to come on at 190 and max flow at 210°.
As far as it cracking under stress from the core support flexing, how did you go about stiffening up James?
I'll be keeping my stock radiator and mechanical fan just incase this doesn't perform the way I would like it to. Time will tell once I have it up and running.
You won't be dissapointed with that alternator.
We bought a 270A from DC-Power (I'd say they're both on par with each other) and after the abuse it went through I will run nothing else. We bought it in 2016 for our shop 6.0L Powerstroke and in that time it has accrued 70k miles, plowed snow commercially for every one of those years (4-12hrs, sometimes more) at a time, was used for various high current jumpstarts on large equipment/vehicles etc and it FINALLY had an issue.
It appears the voltage reg has failed. With that, I sent it back in to DC-Power and they're going to go through it, repair it, and recase it for my Duramax application (with black front/rear billet housings) for $240 which is killer. Below is the alt in question.
270 Amp XP High Output Alternator (Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2006 6.6L Duramax Diesel)
Our XP series high-output alternators are the ultimate upgrade when you need the absolute biggest and most sophisticated high output alternator on the planet. All of our XP series alternators are designed for one purpose, brute force idle output. When you need the most extreme idle output with...
Reed makes some killer turbos! What size did you end up going with again?
Well the condenser is kinda mute because there is an air gap between the intercooler and condenser.
I’m not sure what Ron did. I didn’t really ask questions as I wasn’t sure if was going to be covered warranty at the time. I was just trying to take the nice route and see where it went. My guess is the cores can be supported better to the tanks and he needed to add more there. Every time I’ve seen one leak, it’s around the core to tank area
80/92/1.0 T4You won't be dissapointed with that alternator.
We bought a 270A from DC-Power (I'd say they're both on par with each other) and after the abuse it went through I will run nothing else. We bought it in 2016 for our shop 6.0L Powerstroke and in that time it has accrued 70k miles, plowed snow commercially for every one of those years (4-12hrs, sometimes more) at a time, was used for various high current jumpstarts on large equipment/vehicles etc and it FINALLY had an issue.
It appears the voltage reg has failed. With that, I sent it back in to DC-Power and they're going to go through it, repair it, and recase it for my Duramax application (with black front/rear billet housings) for $240 which is killer. Below is the alt in question.
270 Amp XP High Output Alternator (Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2006 6.6L Duramax Diesel)
Our XP series high-output alternators are the ultimate upgrade when you need the absolute biggest and most sophisticated high output alternator on the planet. All of our XP series alternators are designed for one purpose, brute force idle output. When you need the most extreme idle output with...www.dcpowerinc.com
Reed makes some killer turbos! What size did you end up going with again?