My Build Has Started!
- Thread starter LBZ
- Start date
Sounds to me like you're blaming the problems on the nozzles instead of the junk injectors. Nozzles I'm sure could be reused on a new set of injectors. Unless you have a good reason they may be bad?
Because they were fine before I did the nozzles for one.
But it could be a combo of both. I have extended crank times when it's cold, including multiple attempts to get it started and when it does it smokes and pops and farts like a cold 6.5 like it has waaayy to much fuel in some and missing in others. (glow plugs are new and working). Then at idle it smokes blue quite badly.
It could be bad ball and seats, sticking nozzle needles or poor needle seats. As they replaced one needle when they returned my nozzles, I'm guessing this is the common problem.
But it could be a combo of both. I have extended crank times when it's cold, including multiple attempts to get it started and when it does it smokes and pops and farts like a cold 6.5 like it has waaayy to much fuel in some and missing in others. (glow plugs are new and working). Then at idle it smokes blue quite badly.
It could be bad ball and seats, sticking nozzle needles or poor needle seats. As they replaced one needle when they returned my nozzles, I'm guessing this is the common problem.
I had two Kerma TDI nozzles go bad that caused high return rates but had perfect balance rates. They leaked where the nozzle face mates to the injector bore.
Just thought about this. I never changed the mm3 for idle areas after the bigger injectors were put in. Could this be my problem? I did lower my mA so rail pressure is on point now but when I tried to change mm3 at idle a little all I did was make it start and idle worse.
Any thoughts? Should I try tuning at idle some more to see if this fixes the smoke and balance?
Any thoughts? Should I try tuning at idle some more to see if this fixes the smoke and balance?
