Motor stuck
- Thread starter valleyduramax
- Start date
So have the drivers side apart except for 1 injector but it is loose just need to get it to pop out. Motor is still "stuck".
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Is 1 rotation of the crank 1 rotation of the cp3? He said it was stuck in the same spot going both directions.
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Well the crank seems like it's still in one piece as it does not wobble or move in ways it shouldn't haha. I just need to take off valve cover on drivers side to see the valve train and then go from there. Off to a wedding so no work on it till Monday after work again.
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Alright, so I have all injectors and upper valve covers off and watched as my brother spun the crank both ways till it stopped to watch for stuck valves. No hydro lock or stuck valves from what I can see. Issue is now that I had someone to spin crank while I watched and listened, is that it sounds like a clunk is coming from bell housing or rear of motor. Is it possible for a converter bolt to back out and jam against rear cover or can the torque converter look up due to non use since truck was sitting for so long? I gave up working on it tonight so I'll pull starter tomorrow and make sure all converter bolts are there and still in place.
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Did you put new converter bolts in , did you locktite the bolts ? You might be on to the problem now . Good luck I hope thats it , you have been through alot !
Did you pull the cp3 yet? If it quit running it sounds to me it may have lost fuel pressure. Then you cranked it with a no fire before it locked up. Cp3's do come apart sometimes... expecially after sitting as long as it did.
The trans hasn't been apart since i built it and had new converter bolts that were loctited. I am gonna take out starter tonight or tomorrow night and put my camera in and see if anything is out of place and if not then CP3 is next. I already have a quote for head studs and new gaskets and head resurfacing if needed as i am like 3/4's of the way there I figure it would be a good time to do that stuff. Gotta love forced mods haha
Alright so I just wanted to update this thread as to what the status is. Well I have motor ready to remove which will be this week. Both heads are off and problem found. The valves covers are in about 30 pieces as I had to break them off due to injector hold down bolts being stuck and heads all twisted off. That slowed me up and lowered motivation by about 90% so started working on it again this past week and as of now, the block is ready to lift out.
So The main issue with the motor is that the drivers side piston 3rd back, had left intake valve break off at the base of the stem where it meets valve body. Then it got hammered around inside the cylinder and cratered the head and likewise the piston. So this is why engine is coming out. Only 2 tiny scrapes in cylinder wall maybe 0.005" deep that should be fine as they are right at top of piston travel. Engine builder is a good buddy of mine so he thinks it should be OK with a hone but will decide once we get to that point. Not sure why the valve broke as I had a theory but doesn't appear to be what I was thinking. So can't dwell on why as it will get a new head anyway.
Needs a new head and am gonna swap in some lbz rods, delip my stock lly pistons and key stock crank and cam. Then new bearings and main studs and rebuild the heads and maybe do some porting since it is apart. Then paint and I'm gonna machine up some upper valve covers also. I am doing machine work for the pistons and keying. Can't swing for carillos or stuff so figure lbz rods should be just fine. Not that I wanted to do any of it in the first place but it is what it is.
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So The main issue with the motor is that the drivers side piston 3rd back, had left intake valve break off at the base of the stem where it meets valve body. Then it got hammered around inside the cylinder and cratered the head and likewise the piston. So this is why engine is coming out. Only 2 tiny scrapes in cylinder wall maybe 0.005" deep that should be fine as they are right at top of piston travel. Engine builder is a good buddy of mine so he thinks it should be OK with a hone but will decide once we get to that point. Not sure why the valve broke as I had a theory but doesn't appear to be what I was thinking. So can't dwell on why as it will get a new head anyway.
Needs a new head and am gonna swap in some lbz rods, delip my stock lly pistons and key stock crank and cam. Then new bearings and main studs and rebuild the heads and maybe do some porting since it is apart. Then paint and I'm gonna machine up some upper valve covers also. I am doing machine work for the pistons and keying. Can't swing for carillos or stuff so figure lbz rods should be just fine. Not that I wanted to do any of it in the first place but it is what it is.
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Thanks for getting back to us , sorry to see your eng but you will now have the best of both worlds , good pistons and rods , will make a great DD ! GOOD LUCK ON BUILD !
Well that sucks. But it is good to hear you got to the bottom of it
PS: if you are looking for a set of heads I have some, http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77273
PS: if you are looking for a set of heads I have some, http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77273
Valleyduramax I just saw 2005redlly is selling 8 lbz rods for 250obo ! thought you might want to know !
Thanks lads but I already have the stuff to rebuild it. Friend has some of the parts I am gonna buy
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Motor is out and ready to tear into. Gonna clean up frame and replace pitman arm and swap out the center link to the nicer non rusty 304ss one I have. Also brace up the pitman arm bracket. Also debating on making the move to coil overs but going for 2 on each side like mxopracer has done. Now would be the time with all that space.
Hope to have engine back in by start of may
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Hope to have engine back in by start of may
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