has anybody had problems with the cut and coated lb7 so-cal pistons. i have some friends that have lost a couple of these pistons
Motor build????
- Thread starter blackdirtymax
- Start date
x2.... Mine is still kicking after all these years. I built mine for high rpm and low torque and has proved to be a good choice so far.
I agree, I do think a set of valve spring would be something I would do though.
X2 , I put my motor through hell , that motor cost me 4500.00 + or - 500 and the cut stock piston let go before anything else ( basically the one thing done right LOL ) . As far as motor go I will only go to one extreme or the other all or nothing , the in between motor builds cost the most and usually fail just as fast as the cheapies , i still think cutting the pistons is worth it , key ways , rods, and head steads I would do but still think we could survive with out, and valve springs if the boost is over 50 psi.
FWIW my current motor is a stock short block with 80,??? mi. I pulled the stock pistons, put my rods in it, and slammed the pistons right back in. Put head studs and valve springs in it. No machine work, not even keyed. I dont know if it will last a full race season, but for the money saved versus a "full" build, I'll give it a whirl.:thumb:
I'm likin' the way Jeff thinks. I'd like to get out for 5-6 k with rods and machine work being the big $$ getters. But then again I'm getting an early start on parts sourcing, hoping to find unneeded parts from other builds before I need them.
:rofl: Awesome :thumb:
Cut LB7 pistons are good for 900 plus. I used them for a few years till i let someone tune it. then they lasted 1 Hour.
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What's the argument with using cut/coated stockers compared to cut/coated new from Guy ? I have a set that come out of a LB7 W/T that supposedly was never tuned, engine fire done the truck in. Wanted to send them to someone to cut/coat if at all possible. I'm looking for 7-750.
ok next question is who to use and do you trust on the east coast for duramax engine work(machining)
Well there is a lot of machining you can do and depending on the shape you motor is in and what all you want to do to it. At the minimum i would get the heads decked and pressure checked, and polish the crank, and get the rotating assembly balanced. If you lost a piston you will want to at least hone that bore and maybe bore it depending on the damage. I also internally balanced my crank, and it takes a good competent machinist to do that.
Lots of people will use a tq plate to simulate the heads being tq down and the hone the cyl walls. Also if you run a girdle or billet main caps it's something to consider.