Motor build????

blackdirtymax

blackdirtymax

New member
Apr 15, 2010
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augusta, ga
Hey guys, i hope this is in the right place but i need some advice on a motor build . what parts to def. get or use . Also whether or not to internally balance it or external balance it . just need some guidance from some guys who have "been there , done that" so to speak.:coolspot:
 
ripmf666

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
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Wentzville Mo
blackdirtymax said:
Hey guys, i hope this is in the right place but i need some advice on a motor build . what parts to def. get or use . Also whether or not to internally balance it or external balance it . just need some guidance from some guys who have "been there , done that" so to speak.:coolspot:
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8-10 k area be higher if your going with internal balance.Machine shop is were it will get you sometimes the prices change from area to area. I also sell all of Guy's part from Socal so if I can help you just call me.
 
770JOHNNYW

770JOHNNYW

New member
Sep 16, 2009
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Gainesville ,Ga
i think i came out for around 8-8500.00 pushrods cut and coated stockers,crowers main and head studs, 2000.00 machine shop bill. im probly forgeting somthing though!
 
ChevyDieselLLY

ChevyDieselLLY

Whats A Budget???
Apr 1, 2008
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MI, NC, now Hawaii
i went way over my budget, but you can do it for 10K and under. 1500-2000 for the machine shop. you can use stock pistons. couple of guys have been having good luck it seems. or you can cut and coat them. head and main studs and rods. should be all you need.
 
LarryJewell

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
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San Angelo
sometimes I wonder if the stock bottom end isnt sufficient, seems built motors are popping too, i'm not one to talk, I baby mine now, but I do have 140K abd have been turned up for 120K plus miles, been over 30K miles with duel fuelers and twin turbo's, maybe the key is in the tunes you will be running and how hard you beat on the motor:confused: FWIW, I do dailey drive with a 2800 - 3100 pw, I dont let full fueling occur until after 2800 rpm's and have my shift points set in the 3600 rpm range......... A lot of pretty smart people have had there input in my tunes
 
SteveFord

SteveFord

What's Next?
May 8, 2008
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Iowa
LarryJewell said:
sometimes I wonder if the stock bottom end isnt sufficient, seems built motors are popping too, i'm not one to talk, I baby mine now, but I do have 140K abd have been turned up for 120K plus miles, been over 30K miles with duel fuelers and twin turbo's, maybe the key is in the tunes you will be running and how hard you beat on the motor:confused: FWIW, I do dailey drive with a 2800 - 3100 pw, I dont let full fueling occur until after 2800 rpm's and have my shift points set in the 3600 rpm range......... A lot of pretty smart people have had there input in my tunes
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Wow Larry I didn't realize you had dual fuelers on that thing lol! I still believe also staying out of the 2200-2600 for full fuel and higher timing definately helps.
 
LarryJewell

LarryJewell

Back with his honey :)
Jan 21, 2007
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San Angelo
SteveFord said:
Wow Larry I didn't realize you had dual fuelers on that thing lol! I still believe also staying out of the 2200-2600 for full fuel and higher timing definately helps.
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I have never understood why the scare over duel fuelers, in my mind, if you are sustaining rail pressure, what does it matter if you have duel fuelers, a modified single, etc.....fuel is fuel no matter how you get it.. If I remember correctly, Casper had duel fuelers and a stock bottom for a long time without any issues, I hope to continue like i'm set up, I guess only time will tell. It is fun to break the tires loose while moving though :D, especially when you got a unsuspecting car playing with you.
 
SteveFord

SteveFord

What's Next?
May 8, 2008
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Iowa
LarryJewell said:
I have never understood why the scare over duel fuelers, in my mind, if you are sustaining rail pressure, what does it matter if you have duel fuelers, a modified single, etc.....fuel is fuel no matter how you get it.. If I remember correctly, Casper had duel fuelers and a stock bottom for a long time without any issues, I hope to continue like i'm set up, I guess only time will tell. It is fun to break the tires loose while moving though :D, especially when you got a unsuspecting car playing with you.
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Well if a guy uses them in the right way they can be beneficial for fuel atomization. Mosy guys put them on for max effort and thats where things can go wrong with a stock motor if everything else isn't tuned in right. I look at Camomax's truck. I believe his truck when it had a stock bottom end was tuned in the right way as it lived for a long time and some good beatings it took.
 
Stingpuller

Stingpuller

The Pusher Man
Jan 11, 2007
2,019
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central Ohio
Motor build

I think that a good soild motor can be built for less than most are thinking. You don't need main studs, you don't need internal balance, you don't need pistons/modified, you don't need a cam, you don't need fancy heads and you don't need head studs. That is if you staying under 800 hp and keep power down in the 2600 range and have a good tune. Most may not agree with me but from what I have seen first hand, rods will get it done! I'm not so sure on a LBZ with the correct tune you wouldn't do it with a stock motor and live for a couple of years racing and pulling. Some people can hurt anything! Some people can get away with anything! Then there is most of use in the middle. lol Jeff
 
LWATSON

LWATSON

future trans limpers
Jul 30, 2008
2,587
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55
Scotland Neck NC
I'm getting ready to install an S472 on my truck and shortly after possibly injectors to help with safe tuning. I have been tossing around the idea of installing lb7 pistons and head studs and nothing else. The LBZ rods seem to be holding up well in some high HP trucks. I keep going back to the old saying, " while your in there you might as well..." But as you all know one thing leads to another and before you know it you've spent mega bucks. Am I completely wasting my time and money tearing my engine down just to do pistons, either cut or stock? I would just like to be able to play and not feel like my very next run clould crack a piston. I know I could just run it and take a chance and possibly never have problems but if I do the build I can plan it when I want to instead of being forced into it unexpectedly. Also does cracking a piston generally ruin the block or can you just bore it and get oversized pistons?
 
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