Motor build info thread

[Dirtymaxx03]

cut and coated lb7 pistons
carrilo rods
head studs
main studs
key cam and crank
balance
60 overs

thats the route im gonna go when the time comes

 

[TeaBagger2006]

just buy a socal built motor.

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

My engine is at BES right now and is done. I will be running deliped stock pistons. Hamilton valve springs. Carrillo rods, ATI damper, Head studs, 60 over injectors, stock cam and heads, The only piece of the puzzle that im missing is the 60 over nozzles so far. BES balanced the engine, torque honed the bore, keyed the crank and cam, Cleaned up the deck on the block and the heads. All together right now I have right at 7,000 in the parts and machine work. Machine work alone was $2300 Im not exactly sure what all was messed up on the heads as i sucked a turbo through the engine 2 years ago and the heads were pitted up bad. I could have possibly bent a couple valves. I should know next week exactly what they did but it wasn't cheap. The good thing is though I know it was done right and thats all that matters:thumb:

Thats funny, I am running the exact same setup to the T!! I have around 5-6K wrapped up in mine but I got some very good deals on parts and My machine work was around 1200 for everything. My heads also needed extensive work as I burnt several exhaust valves.

 

[DetailsUnlimited]

Here are a few things to consider at the machine shop.

Key cam and crank
Bore the cylinders (if going to an oversized piston)
Torque plate hone (especially if using head studs)
Deck the block (just enough to make it flat and square with the mains)
Line hone the mains (required if you want to run main studs)
Completely clean and inspect the heads and valves (just to make sure everything is right before bolting them back on)
Balance the rotating assembly (there are guys who have gotten by without it, but it makes them idle so much smoother and isn't that expensive)

Thx Josh! Good info!

 

[DarrenKrueger]

Man I've been reading my ass off trying to figure out the best route for building a dual purpose motor. I love driving my truck but I also love sled pulling and next march our track re-opens so that means racing also. When I buy or build something for my truck I need to do it right the first time cause I don't own an oil company nor am I an heir to Steve jobs. I have a 6 figure job but there is no way possible I can cut a check for 20-30k to a shop for a fully built motor. So I want suggestions or real world input from guys that have built a motor on a per se budget. Stingpullers thread really got me thinking about hard parts that might not b needed, or little things like the pin oiler in the rods. My goal is to build a shortblock I can bolt my heads to and not worry about breaking stuff or have to tear my motor down every year. So hopefully all the newer guys like myself can make smart choices on our setups. Thanks for any info

Make sure you build a good one because i will feel bad handing you your ass with a stock motor!!! haha im just giving you shit but if you need a few extra hands with the job hit me up

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

just buy a socal built motor.

Shit I wish, I priced their complete motors and even the stroker kit. Way beyond my funds.

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

Make sure you build a good one because i will feel bad handing you your ass with a stock motor!!! haha im just giving you shit but if you need a few extra hands with the job hit me up

Lol u r prob right brother. After building the motor I won't b able to afford a spinny thingy. If I can find a decent block to build I might try to push this stock motor but not for very long. I don't wanna f up these heads cause I will reuse them.

 

[DarrenKrueger]

yea i bought another lb7 gonna make it a toy and not pull my other truck anymore, dought i do much to it though for a year or two i need to buy a house....

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

yea i bought another lb7 gonna make it a toy and not pull my other truck anymore, dought i do much to it though for a year or two i need to buy a house....

I hear ya on the house thing. I can barely squeeze my truck in the garage now. Need a bigger pole barn type building on some land.

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

Here are a few things to consider at the machine shop.

Key cam and crank
Bore the cylinders (if going to an oversized piston)
Torque plate hone (especially if using head studs)
Deck the block (just enough to make it flat and square with the mains)
Line hone the mains (required if you want to run main studs)
Completely clean and inspect the heads and valves (just to make sure everything is right before bolting them back on)
Balance the rotating assembly (there are guys who have gotten by without it, but it makes them idle so much smoother and isn't that expensive)

I think I will copy and paste this into my notes on my phone. Lol very good info

 

[Tony Burkhard]

I have had perfect results in using cut and coated pistons in a DD, puller and racer motors. Tuning is 95% of piston failure. Using the right tunning and engine builder makes all the differance in the world.

 

[bigbird]

What's ur opinion on the cut and coated cast pistons? Can they live with good tuning?

They live fine. I've been running 3+ years on cut uncoated pistons. Close to 100 passes in the 10.8- 11.2 range. And about 40,000 driving miles.

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

I have had perfect results in using cut and coated pistons in a DD, puller and racer motors. Tuning is 95% of piston failure. Using the right tunning and engine builder makes all the differance in the world.

This is good to hear. How much can a guy have wrapped up in cut and coated lb7 pistons? And do machine shops coat them or are they sent off elsewhere?

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

They live fine. I've been running 3+ years on cut uncoated pistons. Close to 100 passes in the 10.8- 11.2 range. And about 40,000 driving miles.

Damn Uncoated to boot! I was worried they would b weaker being cut but it seems alot of guys have good results with them done right and good tuning. Maybe nitrous isn't the best thing for them but I don't plan on running nos.

 

[custom8726]

This is good to hear. How much can a guy have wrapped up in cut and coated lb7 pistons? And do machine shops coat them or are they sent off elsewhere?

Sent elsewhere, I opted to just De-lipp stock LB7/LLY pistons on my last 2 engine builds without coating.. If money was no object I would have gone with Arai's the second time around

 

[Tony Burkhard]

This is good to hear. How much can a guy have wrapped up in cut and coated lb7 pistons? And do machine shops coat them or are they sent off elsewhere?

If there clean its about $800 for complete job.

 

[THEREDDEVIL]

If there clean its about $800 for complete job.

Thanks for the info tony

 

[blk smoke lb7]

This is good to hear. How much can a guy have wrapped up in cut and coated lb7 pistons? And do machine shops coat them or are they sent off elsewhere?

Send them out yourself, poly dyn out of houston texas do it, your better off sending them out your self.I used this place to cut and coat mine and the builder put mark up on it for handling.This place also coats the main and rod berings for better lube. Just my .02

 

[custom8726]

Send them out yourself, poly dyn out of houston texas do it, your better off sending them out your self.I used this place to cut and coat mine and the builder put mark up on it for handling.This place also coats the main and rod berings for better lube. Just my .02

X2 :thumb:

 

[Relentlesscummins]

Just curious why you guys are running carrillos over howard or crower rods?