Mild build short block, long block, or rebuild??

[Bakdawg]

Hey guys, been a long time reader of this forum for many years and the amount of information you all provide is amazing! I've learned so much but now I'm stuck trying to figure out which path to take with my truck.

I cracked a piston in my LBZ while towing. Tore it down, and had a little bit of scoring on the cylinder wall we were hoping to hone out. Well, the hone job ended up screwing up the cylinder so it now needs a boring job. Diesel mechanic family member who is helping me with this suggests just taking it down to local machine shop, boring it .10 or .20 over, whatever it takes, and putting that size piston in it, slapping it back together and calling it good (with the idea I drive this truck another year or two at most then sell it).

I think that is a horrible idea from all of the research I've done on here for a couple of reasons. Not a duramax specialist machine shop, meaning prob no torque plate for boring. They don't do any balance work (they can send it off they said), but my mechanic helper suggests that's not even all that necessary. But throwing one oversize piston in there without balancing seems like a horrible idea from what I've read for the long term and a potential disaster waiting to happen down the road.

So now I'm stuck on what to do. As far as I see it, I have several options.

- I've thought about just getting a new truck, but with them so hard to find right now and so dang expensive, the large monthly payment is kind of challenging for us and hard to justify.

- I can do a rebuild of this motor and we can do it ourselves. Send out machine work (hard to find a good duramax knowledgable shop around here tho). But I'm not really too fond of this option because of the time/amount of work it will take us and probable lack of expertise. We're really not performance engine builders and might not know all the tips and tricks for a dmax, even though my mechanic buddy has built a number of motors. This route has several options such as just over-boring the one bad cylinder, or doing all 8.

- Or I buy a short or long block replacement and put the rest together that way. Definitely like this option the most because of time/amount of work required. And I also trust a professional builder a bit more over us LOL. But it's also the most expensive. And if I go this route it means putting a good bit of money into the truck which means I need to keep it for a good number of years more. So I'm thinking of making it worthwhile on this route.

This is where I'd like to find a mildly built motor, upgrade to a built tranny and possibly even twin turbos. I already have EFI live with Rob's tunes (will prob need new tunes once all built), just bought new stock injectors, have lift pump, ProFab manifolds, ARP studs, EGR delete, exhaust, S&B air filter, PCV re-route, you know a bunch of those little things.

So I've been searching and searching but would really like your guys inputs. Does anyone have any suggestions for a mildly built short or long block? I'm not looking for anything too extreme and trying not to break the bank. The truck is a daily driver and we tow a good bit. Right now about a 10-12k horse trailer that we're hauling usually weekly. In Northern AZ, so we see some pretty good grades and some pretty high temps (AZ summers).

Ideally I'd love some upgraded pistons so I hopefully don't crack another. But I really don't need much else built too crazy I don't think. I'll be pushing the power up a bit with twins possibly but not wanting to have a super crazy HP truck where upgrading everything becomes necessary.

I'd like your thoughts on the following options / builders? (Hyperlinked names). Mainly, are any of these great builders, anyone I should stay away from, or are there some other reasonable options out there??

Motor: Ideally would like to be in the $6-7K range for a long block. Is this a reasonable expectation?
US Engine Production - Completely stock - $5549 - No upgrades, so might be worth a few thousand more to get some build out of it.
Modern Diesel Legion - Long Block with upgraded pistons - $4700 - Anyone heard of them or know anything about them? Worried this might be a little cheap to get a build done.
DFC Standard Long Block - $7167 - Can't tell if they upgrade much of anything in this build like pistons?
Choate Long Block Workhorse - $9595 - Seems like a pretty good builder with some decent upgrades.
DFC Tow/Haul Long Block - $10857 - Again, can't tell what they really upgrade?

Transmission: I feel any of these are good options for what I'm looking for.
Inglewood Juggernaut Jr - $5000 - 750 HP
SDP - $4,445 - 650 HP
Suncoast Guardian - $5595 - Unk HP
DmaxTuner - $3965 - 750 HP
Werhli - $5239 - 750 HP

Twins: Both seem to be top options
SDP - $3850 - S475 over stock
Werhli - $3744 - S475 over stock

I am so lost on what to do right now. I go back and forth with so many options and so I'm looking for a little bit of help, especially with the motor choices. So I'd greatly appreciate any help in advance! Thanks guys!!

 

[OleBlackyLBZ]

Dont use and engine builder who your not 100% sure about. Ive been down this budget build road a couple times very recently, itll cost you alot more in the long run trying to save a couple thousand. Get a reputable engine builder that takes pride in what they do and will absolutely stand behind their work, Socal and All-Season are two of the best but there are some others id trust also. For utmost longevity go with a brand new crank and an alternate fire cam if you can swing it. Lbz rods and delipped lb7 pistons are very economical and considered by most to be pretty safe to around 650hp, some arp head studs and most everything else stock should be fine. Run at least a 17-19 L5P oil cooler but with compounds id for sure go with the 2020 cooler. Of the transmissions kits you listed Mike and Evans Juggernaut wont be beat by anyone but SDP does good work also and might work you a package deal on a trans build and a compound kit. Im typing kind of in a hurry so Im probably forgetting somethin but I think your headed the right direction. Shoot me a message if you have any questions ive priced around alot of different setups from different companies recently, ill help however I can and might be able to help save you some trouble.

 

[Bdsankey]

Engine:
I would personally go with DHD in Michigan, their "Budget Hooker" short block is an LBZ rod/LB7 piston motor for ~$6700 that you can easily change anything on. I usually deal with Evan Berry there. I would run the 2020 cooler and if oil temps are still climbing add an external oil cooler as well.

I have not used US Engine, Modern Diesel Legion, or DFC and I never plan to with as close as DHD is.

I personally would not go to Choate, I've got a few friends here in Wisconsin who have been burned by Cass including having their blocks/cranks/rods/pistons for ~18mo without any contact as well as building engines that had excessive blow by on startup out of the crate on stock fuel/air (6.4L Fords).


Transmission:
Both Mike/Evan at Inglewood and Scott at SDP will take care of all of your needs. I would personally go with Mike/Evan if you're wanting one shipped in. If you have a good builder local to you who is reputable then that would be another great option as customer service wouldn't be potentially across the country.

 

[OleBlackyLBZ]

Just to clarify for the OP, All Season and DHD are the same company. And you wont beat their engines for the money. I just purchased a short block from them. I have always thought DFC were probably decent but my mechanic has one with low miles in his shop right now with a blown head gasket.

 

[Chevy1925]

what part of Arizona do you live in? ive built many many high hp engines here in phx and have plenty of info to help you out.

how many miles are on your truck now? becarful on this rabbit hole you are looking at. you are about to sink a shit load of money into a truck that is 14 years old, already were not planning on keeping it for more than 2 years, and what you have listed out there is a hell of a down payment on a new truck. Plus add in the sale of the truck and you are at a 25-30k down payment.

a 5-6k engine build isnt going to upgrade alot in the engine and may or may not be enough to freshen up your heads.

 

[PureHybrid]

If you're selling it in 1-2 years, just have the one hole sleeved to std bore if the rest check out within spec. Even going +.020 on all holes shouldn't be an issue

 

[Chevy1925]

If you're selling it in 1-2 years, just have the one hole sleeved to std bore if the rest check out within spec. Even going +.020 on all holes shouldn't be an issue

problem with that is cylinder distortion to the neighboring cylinders. it can cause .003-4" of out-of-round or taper in addition the out of round or taper the neighboring cylinders already have.

 

[Bakdawg]

Dont use and engine builder who your not 100% sure about. Ive been down this budget build road a couple times very recently, itll cost you alot more in the long run trying to save a couple thousand. Get a reputable engine builder that takes pride in what they do and will absolutely stand behind their work, Socal and All-Season are two of the best but there are some others id trust also. For utmost longevity go with a brand new crank and an alternate fire cam if you can swing it. Lbz rods and delipped lb7 pistons are very economical and considered by most to be pretty safe to around 650hp, some arp head studs and most everything else stock should be fine. Run at least a 17-19 L5P oil cooler but with compounds id for sure go with the 2020 cooler. Of the transmissions kits you listed Mike and Evans Juggernaut wont be beat by anyone but SDP does good work also and might work you a package deal on a trans build and a compound kit.

Your thread about a broken crank and your XCalibur build is exactly why I'm asking these questions. Because I have zero clue who is considered a reputable engine builder besides the real big names. And rightfully so, but unfortunately for my checkbook, those big names are high dollar and something I probably can't swing, because like Socal's start at $16k. I totally understand you get what you pay for with most things in life but that's why I'm curious if there are any slightly more reasonably cost reputable builders for someone not looking for an extreme build...I was considering the upgraded oil coolers so thanks for that confirmation. And I appreciate your input into the transmission builders as well. I'm not sure I can afford the crank and AF cam. I know the crank can be a luck of the draw thing with even stock motors, so not pushing my HP numbers too high, those might be items I need to leave stock.

Engine:
I would personally go with DHD in Michigan, their "Budget Hooker" short block is an LBZ rod/LB7 piston motor for ~$6700 that you can easily change anything on. I usually deal with Evan Berry there. I would run the 2020 cooler and if oil temps are still climbing add an external oil cooler as well.

I have not used US Engine, Modern Diesel Legion, or DFC and I never plan to with as close as DHD is.

I personally would not go to Choate, I've got a few friends here in Wisconsin who have been burned by Cass including having their blocks/cranks/rods/pistons for ~18mo without any contact as well as building engines that had excessive blow by on startup out of the crate on stock fuel/air (6.4L Fords).

Transmission:
Both Mike/Evan at Inglewood and Scott at SDP will take care of all of your needs. I would personally go with Mike/Evan if you're wanting one shipped in. If you have a good builder local to you who is reputable then that would be another great option as customer service wouldn't be potentially across the country.

The DHD did look like a good build to me. Was kinda surprised they don't have a long block option. But at $6700 for a short block, these prices are making me second guess this whole plan If I do buy just a short block, is there anything I should have done to my current heads? Currently have 224,000 miles on the truck. I already have studs (from HG job a couple years ago) and new Mahle "C" gaskets just purchased to put this thing back together when I thought it was gonna be a simple piston replacement.

Thanks for the Choate information. From my research they seemed like a decent option but I never would have known.

Tranny I won't have built locally (don't know anyone good locally). So plan to just get one already built from one of these top builders (or send mine in to them in advance). Looking like Mike/Evan are at the top of the list right now with SDP right there with them.

Just to clarify for the OP, All Season and DHD are the same company. And you wont beat their engines for the money. I just purchased a short block from them. I have always thought DFC were probably decent but my mechanic has one with low miles in his shop right now with a blown head gasket.

Good to know they're one and the same. And also the DFC info. See another one I've had as a decent option since I haven't found much out about them yet.

what part of Arizona do you live in? ive built many many high hp engines here in phx and have plenty of info to help you out.

how many miles are on your truck now? becarful on this rabbit hole you are looking at. you are about to sink a shit load of money into a truck that is 14 years old, already were not planning on keeping it for more than 2 years, and what you have listed out there is a hell of a down payment on a new truck. Plus add in the sale of the truck and you are at a 25-30k down payment.

a 5-6k engine build isnt going to upgrade alot in the engine and may or may not be enough to freshen up your heads.

I'm up in Flagstaff. If I have someone do/help me with the build I knew at minimum I'd have to find someone in the valley as there are so few (no) options up here, so I may have to take you up on that.

224,000 on the truck now. The rabbit hole is something I'm definitely afraid of LOL, and one I'm good at going down too easily too so I'm trying to take my time to figure out my best option here. Hence why I'm asking you all for this help too! So just to clarify. Selling in 1-2 years would be the option if I just did something super simple to just get her back up and running such as a simple bore job and replaced the one piston (without balancing, as my helper friend suggests). IF I put any real money into this motor (legit rebuild, new short or long block) then I will keep the truck for another 6+ years minimum (as long as everything else lasts on her). And only with this route will I decide to upgrade tranny and add the twins. If I do the minimum to get her back up and running to sell in the next year or two, current tranny stays and no twins.

I've definitely recognized all this money would make for a good down payment on a truck, and yes if I can get this truck back up and running and can sell it then I'm in a really great position for down payment on a new truck. And that is definitely still on the table as an option (and what mechanic friend suggests, hence the cheaper option of putting it back together).

So my dilemma with that option is how "cheap and simple" do I go? Bore over and throw single oversize piston in it without balancing? Prob get it rebuilt under $1k this way. Spend another $1K plus to get the assembly with that single new piston balanced? Bore over and sleeve for single stock piston that might not require balancing? Bore all 8 and 8 new oversize pistons with balancing (even more money)? Buy a completely stock reman'd short or long block from a non performance builder (good selling point)? Etc.

Other problem is new trucks are really hard to find right now. And even with the pretty decent down payment, adding another monthly payment to budget could be tough. I've put a good bit of money into this truck the last few years and it has a lot of extras (lift pump, profab manifolds, EFI live, CTS monitor, new lift kit, airbags, 52 gallon tank, headunit, brand new tires the day before I blew the motor LOL). So keeping it for several more years to get some more good use out of all that I've put into it wouldn't be too bad either. So I'm really torn.

As far as the heads, what do you suggest needs to be done to them to freshen them up?

If you're selling it in 1-2 years, just have the one hole sleeved to std bore if the rest check out within spec. Even going +.020 on all holes shouldn't be an issue

That is one thought that has crossed my mind, although mechanic buddy says he's seen too many sleeves slip and do some bad damage (at least on cummins). And selling in 1-2 years would only be the route I take IF I do this as cheap as possible as mentioned above now. IF I do a build or put a good bit of money into it, I'll keep it for 6+ easily.

problem with that is cylinder distortion to the neighboring cylinders. it can cause .003-4" of out-of-round or taper in addition the out of round or taper the neighboring cylinders already have.

See that's the kind of stuff I'm not familiar with and have to worry about. And I don't want to do something that will just give the motor bigger problems down the road, either for myself if I end up having to keep it or for anyone else who I sell it to.

Ahhh decisions decisions

 

[Bdsankey]

Your heads will need to be gone through. Pressure checked, decked for flatness, valve recession set, guides checked/replaced as needed, valves replaced as needed, valve job etc to bring them back to new condition. Around here that can be $600-$900 depending on exactly how bad they are.

This is my opinion (the keyword here is opinion), if you've got those parts already, alot of new stuff on the truck, I would call DHD and have them build you a long block and call it a day. They build long blocks all the time, it's just not usually on the website. Doing their "Budget Hooker" will be a great middle-ground for your goals and really allow you some more peace of mind when you throw compounds on it.


Or the other option is you fix it properly for the absolute least amount of money possible and sell it for a downpayment on a new truck. I personally don't like the huge payments with them but that's just me.

 

[Ne-max]

I have a fresh GM reman long block in the crate still I'd sell for cheap. ( James. It's my personal not buisness)

Stay away from DFC. The warranty is vary shady along with the core expectations. Also they don't include stuff a fresh engine should have.

I personally would fix it and send it down the road. You CANT beat the way a newer truck rides and drives compared to a LBZ.

 

[Yngdmax92]

I'm with Sankey on this one. Dhd is a good build, fixes all the week points, they are good people, good business and a cheap alternative. I would definitely fix the truck properly and drive it. New trucks are expensive and not everyone needs a truck that can haul 35k lbs. The newer chassis, brakes and safety features are cool. But at what point is it just being a vehicle and how much do you need to get back an forth to work. Some questions you need to ask yourself. Lbz's as you can tell hold good value too. Enjoy the truck!

 

[OleBlackyLBZ]

If your looking for quality and budget friendly at the same time you won't beat DHD/All Season. But at the end of the day your still going to have around 10K in it.

 

[Chevy1925]

@Bakdawg, Id suggest talking to Luke. if that option does not work out and you want a turn key, ready to drop in engine where you dont have to do anything but swap external parts, call DHD. If you want to save some coin and do a little leg work, i will help set you up. i would offer to build it but im currently holding off on builds till my shop is up.

to go my route, you would need to be able to bring the engine to tucson, decide if the machine shop will do assembly or not (they are very good and they stand behind their work), decide on just what parts you want to run. at min you will need a bore over and new pistons, rings (usually come with pistons), bearings, gaskets, key the crank and cam, heads checked and/or re-done, new main bolts and other assortment of parts) and then heads need checked. at the mileage you have, heads will most likely need a complete go through which means decked, possibly recessed valves depending on how much was decked, new seats cut, new valve guides, spring seat pressure checked, and a hot pressure test under high pressure. IIRC head rebuild is in the 1000-1300 territory. just depends as all this covid stuff has really messed with pricing.

 

[PureHybrid]

problem with that is cylinder distortion to the neighboring cylinders. it can cause .003-4" of out-of-round or taper in addition the out of round or taper the neighboring cylinders already have.

I've never witnessed that

 

[TheBac]

Meh. Rebuild what you have with a sleeve, or buy a good used engine and rebuild it. Either way, do it yourself and keep it stock.

 

[Chevy1925]

I've never witnessed that

i agreed till i was at the machine shop and he showed me on a dmax block we were putting a sleeve in. we ran out of round and taper on the remaining 3 cylinders that had not been touched. LBZ block as well. No bueno



heres the other points about throwing just a sleeve in. once its in, it still requires a finish bore and hone or possibly just a hone. You have the cost of the sleeve, cost of the machine work for said sleeve, and then the possibility of a machine shop saying "we aint touching that, thats not right". If they do the work, the cost difference of boring over the block is damn near the same as a new sleeve and machine work done to it. The other reason is we are talking about a block wtih 224k on it, those cylinder walls will have wear to them which means clearances have opened up and will most likely be too high for a cast piston. machine shop will suggest atleast a hone on the stock cylinders, so you do it and now clearances are around .004-.005 p to w. Say you dont hone the rest and run it, now you have the distorion issue i was talking about which may or may not pose an issue due to the worn cylinders as is. Plus you now no longer have hone marks to break in new rings so lets put stock rings back in. if thats the case, the top 1/4 of the cylinder wall needs much cleaning and you had better be very delicate with the oil rings, they dont like much force. all of this still leads to higher oil consumption. the biggest cost in all this is all 8 new pistons or not for a bore over. So if that is the decision, id look at either a good used engine or bore over and new stock pistons.

what i dont like or condone the idea of is slapping a piss poor machine worked block back together to sell off to some unlucky sole. Just unethical to me.

im all for cheap ass, trying ways that make people cringe, roadkill style builds but not when the truck is planned to be sold. when its your own toy and you know the outcome but want to do it any how (think back to trents delipped pistons in his dads truck using a router lmao), im game for trying.

 

[Bakdawg]

Your heads will need to be gone through. Pressure checked, decked for flatness, valve recession set, guides checked/replaced as needed, valves replaced as needed, valve job etc to bring them back to new condition. Around here that can be $600-$900 depending on exactly how bad they are.

This is my opinion (the keyword here is opinion), if you've got those parts already, alot of new stuff on the truck, I would call DHD and have them build you a long block and call it a day. They build long blocks all the time, it's just not usually on the website. Doing their "Budget Hooker" will be a great middle-ground for your goals and really allow you some more peace of mind when you throw compounds on it.

Thanks for the info on what needs done to the heads. That price isn't too bad. I guess I'll have to start searching for a place that could do that. I know my heads were machined a couple of years ago when I blew a HG, but I don't remember how much...And your opinion matters, all of your guys' do, that's why I'm here to learn from you all!!

Or the other option is you fix it properly for the absolute least amount of money possible and sell it for a downpayment on a new truck. I personally don't like the huge payments with them but that's just me.

I guess that's one of my many questions. What's the minimum PROPER way to fix it? Sounds like it's a LOT more than just simply boring one cylinder over and throwing a piston in it and buttoning her back up. Needs a lot more machining, balancing/honing (with torque plate) and careful rebuild. Or doing all 8 it seems. And I agree, a huge new truck payment does not sound like fun at all, and just pushes the budget a bit anyways.

I have a fresh GM reman long block in the crate still I'd sell for cheap. ( James. It's my personal not buisness)

Stay away from DFC. The warranty is vary shady along with the core expectations. Also they don't include stuff a fresh engine should have.

I personally would fix it and send it down the road. You CANT beat the way a newer truck rides and drives compared to a LBZ.

Hmmm, may have to consider that one if I don't go with a built one Ne-max. And thanks for the DFC info, good stuff to know. A new truck is tempting but the payment is not.

I'm with Sankey on this one. Dhd is a good build, fixes all the week points, they are good people, good business and a cheap alternative. I would definitely fix the truck properly and drive it. New trucks are expensive and not everyone needs a truck that can haul 35k lbs. The newer chassis, brakes and safety features are cool. But at what point is it just being a vehicle and how much do you need to get back an forth to work. Some questions you need to ask yourself. Lbz's as you can tell hold good value too. Enjoy the truck!

Yeah I'm not needing that heavy of hauling capability right yet. A new truck would be nice but I still really like mine, it's just tough to spend so much on an older truck. Thanks for another push and more info for DHD.

If your looking for quality and budget friendly at the same time you won't beat DHD/All Season. But at the end of the day your still going to have around 10K in it.

that's a good bit of cash

@Bakdawg, Id suggest talking to Luke. if that option does not work out and you want a turn key, ready to drop in engine where you dont have to do anything but swap external parts, call DHD. If you want to save some coin and do a little leg work, i will help set you up. i would offer to build it but im currently holding off on builds till my shop is up.

to go my route, you would need to be able to bring the engine to tucson, decide if the machine shop will do assembly or not (they are very good and they stand behind their work), decide on just what parts you want to run. at min you will need a bore over and new pistons, rings (usually come with pistons), bearings, gaskets, key the crank and cam, heads checked and/or re-done, new main bolts and other assortment of parts) and then heads need checked. at the mileage you have, heads will most likely need a complete go through which means decked, possibly recessed valves depending on how much was decked, new seats cut, new valve guides, spring seat pressure checked, and a hot pressure test under high pressure. IIRC head rebuild is in the 1000-1300 territory. just depends as all this covid stuff has really messed with pricing.

Does Luke happen to be Ne-max with the reman long block available? Are you referring to a shop in Tucson you know and trust to do a dmax build? Any idea on timeframe or pricing (machine work/building, not parts) for having a shop put it together like that? I already have a new gasket kit and HG's sitting here. Have ARP studs, so would just need to piece together a few things like piston kit and any other parts I'd like upgraded. Heads were decked a couple years ago when we did HG job, although I don't remember how much they took off. And I know they didn't do anything else to check them. So yeah that would all be needed.

i agreed till i was at the machine shop and he showed me on a dmax block we were putting a sleeve in. we ran out of round and taper on the remaining 3 cylinders that had not been touched. LBZ block as well. No bueno

heres the other points about throwing just a sleeve in. once its in, it still requires a finish bore and hone or possibly just a hone. You have the cost of the sleeve, cost of the machine work for said sleeve, and then the possibility of a machine shop saying "we aint touching that, thats not right". If they do the work, the cost difference of boring over the block is damn near the same as a new sleeve and machine work done to it. The other reason is we are talking about a block wtih 224k on it, those cylinder walls will have wear to them which means clearances have opened up and will most likely be too high for a cast piston. machine shop will suggest atleast a hone on the stock cylinders, so you do it and now clearances are around .004-.005 p to w. Say you dont hone the rest and run it, now you have the distorion issue i was talking about which may or may not pose an issue due to the worn cylinders as is. Plus you now no longer have hone marks to break in new rings so lets put stock rings back in. if thats the case, the top 1/4 of the cylinder wall needs much cleaning and you had better be very delicate with the oil rings, they dont like much force. all of this still leads to higher oil consumption. the biggest cost in all this is all 8 new pistons or not for a bore over. So if that is the decision, id look at either a good used engine or bore over and new stock pistons.

That's nuts!! Sounds like a sleeve isn't as simple or as cut and dry as it sounds

what i dont like or condone the idea of is slapping a piss poor machine worked block back together to sell off to some unlucky sole. Just unethical to me.

I agree 100% which is why I would never intentionally do that to someone. I guess that's why I'm here confirming that I can't just do a simple overbore and throw a piston in it without balancing right? That's a disaster waiting to happen eventually isn't it? That's why I'm pushing back against my mechanic family member who says "it will be fine, it's been done that way for years on countless motors, and you'll prob be able to run it for another 60k plus easily". But I'm not buying it. Seems like there's a bit more work that needs to go into this thing from what I understand than just 'slapping it back together' on the cheap. Good machining, boring/honing (with torque plate), balancing, and care rebuilding right? I can't just get this done for a $500 machine job and one new piston it doesn't seem. So that's what I'm trying to learn, is what's the minimum proper way to do it?

And all this is why I'm just leaning more and more to buying a pre-built one.

 

[Bdsankey]

Thanks for the info on what needs done to the heads. That price isn't too bad. I guess I'll have to start searching for a place that could do that. I know my heads were machined a couple of years ago when I blew a HG, but I don't remember how much...And your opinion matters, all of your guys' do, that's why I'm here to learn from you all!!



I guess that's one of my many questions. What's the minimum PROPER way to fix it? Sounds like it's a LOT more than just simply boring one cylinder over and throwing a piston in it and buttoning her back up. Needs a lot more machining, balancing/honing (with torque plate) and careful rebuild. Or doing all 8 it seems. And I agree, a huge new truck payment does not sound like fun at all, and just pushes the budget a bit anyways.

DHD also can do your heads where they send you a long block. Like I said, call DHD (I deal with Evan or Chad) or call the machine shop James recommends as he is local to your area.

 

[Chevy1925]

So that's what I'm trying to learn, is what's the minimum proper way to do it?

a bore over and all new pistons, then make your upgrades or no upgrades from there.

 

[Bakdawg]

Thank you everyone who has offered their input so far! I greatly appreciate it and I'm grateful for your knowledge!

DHD also can do your heads where they send you a long block. Like I said, call DHD (I deal with Evan or Chad) or call the machine shop James recommends as he is local to your area.

I'll prob try to call them soon. I'm trying to list out everything I need to cover with them so I don't miss anything and see what all my options are. I'm hoping they'll be able to come up with a decent package without breaking the bank.

a bore over and all new pistons, then make your upgrades or no upgrades from there.

Okay, so doing all 8 of them, kinda what I figured would be the right way to do it. Do you have any clue what the machining and balancing on that should run approximately? If I sourced a piston kit.