This ^
Works wonders if it's just air-locked on the return side. Wouldn't be the first time I've had that happen.
LML Rebuild - Crank No Start
- Thread starter StephenZ
- Start date
Works wonders if it's just air-locked on the return side. Wouldn't be the first time I've had that happen.
I tried pliers by myself, and coke to think of it, that might have been when it hit, I’ll have a buddy come over today and have him apply a little pressure while I crank.
As someone who's done it before, I always have to suggest verify the crank and cam sensors are in the correct holes. The clocking of the connectors is just slightly different, and will quickly give it away if ya have them reversed. They won't fire if swapped. Besides that, those LML return line back pressure valves is a good place to start.
Thanks, believe it or not I actually corrected them before even doing any cranking, I just happened to look down while rolling my engine crane over to my truck, and noticed the cam/crank sensors were in the wrong spots. Lol.
With a razor blade I finally got the hose off. Blew around 50lbs of air into it, put it back on truck hit immediately but did not start.
Am I supposed to leave it off and crank or put it back on like I did? It’s too damn hot to mess with it anymore today (107). So I’ll mess with it again in the morning.
Am I supposed to leave it off and crank or put it back on like I did? It’s too damn hot to mess with it anymore today (107). So I’ll mess with it again in the morning.
Quick question. I do not have a 9th injector (Was deleted years ago), that being said, Bank 2, has the 9th injector side, if I were to put the Bank 2 over on Bank 1 (Which was what I just observed), I guess with this heat I overlooked it and put Bank 2 on Bank 1, and Bank 1 on Bank 2, would that cause the crank - no start as well?
Had hail damage last night on the RV and Wifes car and our house, so haven't messed with my LML much today, been dealing with insurance all morning - Should have rolled the LML out of the shop and let it get hit with the baseballs that fell last night, LOL...
But I went in to look at something and noticed that I put the 9th Injector side over on Bank 1 (Driver Side) rather than putting it on the passengers side. I know each return line is ran separately into the mechanical valve located on top of the thermostat housing or CP3 can't remember of the top of my head, hell we oculd just sit it in the valley and call it good for all I care at this point.
I'll be going out there later this evening to deal with it again and finish taking the passenger side returns off to swap it around.
Swapping banks with the return line won’t matter. They are a balanced system, the return regulator is an opened orifice on the injector side. Simple ball and spring regulator.
Trucks will idle with 20psi return. But a new regulator will show 150psi consistent.
You can put shop air into the 9th port to get it to fire, if low retune pressure is the issue.
Trucks will idle with 20psi return. But a new regulator will show 150psi consistent.
You can put shop air into the 9th port to get it to fire, if low retune pressure is the issue.
Well ended up getting a new return line because I had noticed a few broken clips. Now the oil pump seems like it lost prime, I primed the oil pump before all of this, and was rocking a steady 30-40+ PSI while cranking, now I’m only building 2.9-3.3 psi of oil pressure… still experiencing crank no start after rebuild…
I would imagine we’d be getting a code for signal lossage. I am however building only what the DFRP is calling for. So I’ve fixed that issue. Lift pump filter gasket was also squashed a little but it is good now. It’s still giving the occasional hit every so often. Oregon fuel injection said if we’ve got smoke we’re close, hell we’ve had smoke since day 1, lol.
The cam and crank readings are coming back not matching up, took the timing cover off and everything’s in time, it’s CP3 swapped so it’s not injection timing.
That being said It was kind of on the back burner over the summer after all these issues arose. Got out there the other day, still having crank/cam readings not matching. Had a buddy from the local diesel shop come over and put his fancy computer on it again and said it’s still showing “out of time” as far as the cam and crank readings.
I’m wondering, this is a long shot, but I did check the dowel pins that hold both cam and crank gears as well as the oil drive gear and they aren’t sheared. But now that we’ve gotten some cooler weather I may start back up on it.
It was my daily, but now it’s turned into a Projext that the wife wants me to get rid of. But hell when you don’t owe a note on it, and have a company truck, why not just build it up…
At one point we lost oil pressure, took the oil pans off, found that the bolts to the pickup tube came loose. Checked all bearings no scoring so reassembled bottom end, and now we’ve got oil pressure again. Engine spins over great.
Have 375lbs of compression in every cylinder. Those are cold compression numbers as we can’t get the engine to start and do a warm compression test.
Have 375lbs of compression in every cylinder. Those are cold compression numbers as we can’t get the engine to start and do a warm compression test.
Any chance you have the cam and crank sensor or connectors swapped? I've seen both things happen and cause a crank no start.