LML No power after changing fuel filter

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
I just changed the fuel filter on my 2012 2500HD, after installing the filter I primed it and opened the bleeder screw and let the air out, repeated this until only fuel came out, let the truck idle for about 8 minutes to check for leaks, none so went for a test drive, but in drive the trunk has no power at all, it acts like its in limp mode, in park it revs up without any hesitation, but in drive the throttle is just not there...no lights or info on the DIC, and no codes are set???
 

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
Yes, I have a actron scanner, used it to look for codes but it displays none, should I be looking for something else?
 

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
I believe I figured it out, rail pressure was fine, but there's air in the line from changing the fuel filter, primed it for a good minute and the trunk took off, drove around for a few minutes and it was fine, stopped and started and was limping again so I primed it again and all was good, drove around some more and no more issues. Thanks for the input.:)
 

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
So I pulled the fuel filter off, checked the seal and it looked fine, wasn't pinched anywhere. I replaced the plastic bleeder screw with a new aluminum bleeder screw, tightened both down and then primed it until i couldn't press down anymore. Started the truck and let it run for 5 minutes while continuing to prime then went for a test drive, still no power. Shut off the trunk and primed it until I couldn't press down, let it sit for 5 minutes and went back and the primer was soft, it took about 6 primes and it was hard, let it sit and again it was soft, so air is still getting sucked in somewhere. So I thought about getting another fuel filter from the dealer and trying that, one question I have is could the primer mechanism have a leak?? Other than that or the filter not sure where air could be getting in from??:confused:
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,759
5,933
113
Phoenix Az
fuel filter heads are prone to leaking. i have not heard about it as much on the newer trucks but i would bet they still do. being this started after you put a new filter on, id be more inclined to look at that as the issue
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
962
44
28
I just changed the fuel filter on my 2012 2500HD, after installing the filter I primed it and opened the bleeder screw and let the air out, repeated this until only fuel came out, let the truck idle for about 8 minutes to check for leaks, none so went for a test drive, but in drive the trunk has no power at all, it acts like its in limp mode, in park it revs up without any hesitation, but in drive the throttle is just not there...no lights or info on the DIC, and no codes are set???

Did you change the filter in regards to a power issue? Was it low before hand and in hopes of it fixing the truck? jw
 

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
No, I bought the truck used this summer, and so I was just doing some maintenance, changing filters and fluids, the DIC did show about 10% remaining. So question is do I replace the filter head or just replace the o-rings in the existing head...?
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
Just curious, what does the fuel filter minder read now with this new filter? And I agree with James toss a cheap o-ring kit in that fuel filter head for piece of mind.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,736
806
113
Texas!!!
I like the kit Merchant sells with the aluminum WIF sensor plug and the aluminum bleed screw. Those plastic WIF sensors are prone to leaking and causing problems too. I agree with James though; since this started right after changing the filter, I would look at something related to that as being the cause.
 

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
So I just replaced the o-rings in the fuel filter head, but that doesn't seem to have done anything, it'll prime up hard and after about a minute its soft again so I assume air is still getting in. What I have noticed is if in gear, foot on brake, rev to 1000 rpm for 30 seconds it'll take off and run as long as the rpm's stay above 1000, the minute I stop and let it idle, which is around 600, air is back in the system and there's no power.:confused:
 

r_olsen

AZDmax
Nov 4, 2017
18
0
0
Arizona
Just an update as I'm still having power issues but only at idle, had the truck into the dealership to reflash the ECM back to stock since I've had to add all emissions junk back on. At speeds above 1000 rpm truck runs fine, idles fine but when you drop it into drive no power and starts knocking, if I rev the truck above 1000 rpm for 5 seconds then it'll run and as long as I keep one foot on the brake when coming to a stop to keep the rpm at or above 1000 its fine, the second it falls below pressure is lost. Dealer said it was due to contaminated fuel, but if that was true wouldn't it run rough or stall or knock at higher rpms also? They also said if that wasn't the problem then it may be injectors, which they want 7500 to replace all 8. From what I've read online I'm wondering if there is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator that is on the front of the left side fuel rail, could that be causing this issue:(
 

IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
2,275
4
0
Before you try anything else, try replacing the injector return line assembly.


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