LML Marine swap
- Thread starter Hawk 40
- Start date
Is the T top just attached to the console? It looks like 1/4 -20's holding it together. It'd glass the console all together if going that route. Also, are you going to insulate the fish boxes and run positive pressure on your live wells? That far forward I would think it would be needed to keep a stabile environment for live bait or do you jigg it on site? It looks like you drift or kite fish bc I don't see any trolling rod holders or out rigors? Just curious, it's a bad ass build...
T top doesn't touch the floor, trying to keep plenty of room for traffic around the console.
It's thru bolted w/backing plates. Console is glassed to the floor. Holes are cut for outrigger bases but not installed yet cause I'm working on it in a low farm shed at the moment. The stringers and bulkheads were filled with 4# foam as well as the areas underneath the boxes. The forward live well was a compromise and not planned that way. The original layout included a leaning post/baitwell from a 34 YF, but that whole set up began to look too far forward as it came together and made the boat look like a bow rider, so we ditched the super functional live well for the forward console thing, not thrilled about it but boat looks 100% better and I picked up room for cool racing bolsters.
It's thru bolted w/backing plates. Console is glassed to the floor. Holes are cut for outrigger bases but not installed yet cause I'm working on it in a low farm shed at the moment. The stringers and bulkheads were filled with 4# foam as well as the areas underneath the boxes. The forward live well was a compromise and not planned that way. The original layout included a leaning post/baitwell from a 34 YF, but that whole set up began to look too far forward as it came together and made the boat look like a bow rider, so we ditched the super functional live well for the forward console thing, not thrilled about it but boat looks 100% better and I picked up room for cool racing bolsters.
Attachments
This is as far back as I could get the console and still utilize the well underneath it and still have fishing room behind it. There is room for a rear live well if I wanted to cut up the bolster stands and incorporate it into the back of the seats, maybe later, way behind getting it in the water.
Attachments
Gotcha, it's always a compromise with boats. The 741's are on blow out right now, the replacement 742 and new 942 are due for release soon. They won't work well with that grey machine though. What is it a 7212?
Yeah 7212, hopefully I get done before it's all obsolete.
The turbo v flange is bugging the crap out me right now, don't want to buy a stainless down pipe just to cut the flange off.
Could get a couple of stock downpipes & cut the flange off
Yeah 7212, hopefully I get done before it's all obsolete.
The turbo v flange is bugging the crap out me right now, don't want to buy a stainless down pipe just to cut the flange off.
Or ask somebody that makes downpipes for the flange like Rick from Profab on here
Or have some made up, there's an older thread on here called looking for stock vvt outlet flange that has the dimensions on it from McRat
Sorry phone wouldn't let me copy & paste the link
Yeah 7212, hopefully I get done before it's all obsolete.
The turbo v flange is bugging the crap out me right now, don't want to buy a stainless down pipe just to cut the flange off.
The scalability of the water temp shot is nice on the 76 series and 8000's. Not sure if you structure fish or are concerned with water shots or not. 72 series can't do the adjustable water temp range. Just an FYI, a new weather antenna is on the horizon with some eye opening upgrades...
Charge cooler looks like it fits well down in the side pocket.
On your boots, ya might make sure that first 2.5"-3" reducer is a "Vibrant" brand or something rated at 450F+. I tried some cheap ones in that position and they all failed in under 30 minutes running time. Even the ones from Vibrant typically last about 25hrs normal running. Never an issues further away from the turbo. Cheap single layer boots are only rated at like 250F. Best solution is a V-Band clamp setup, but that requires welding to the turbo compressor housing.
On your boots, ya might make sure that first 2.5"-3" reducer is a "Vibrant" brand or something rated at 450F+. I tried some cheap ones in that position and they all failed in under 30 minutes running time. Even the ones from Vibrant typically last about 25hrs normal running. Never an issues further away from the turbo. Cheap single layer boots are only rated at like 250F. Best solution is a V-Band clamp setup, but that requires welding to the turbo compressor housing.