Lml crank doesnt seem to fit

[The Kansan]

Well went to sit LML crank in my lb7 block after i Mic'd all the mains with DBG and micrometer to double check my measurements with plastigauge (which i know isnt that accurate but im weird about over checking stuff like that) and the crank sits in the mains fine but the crank counterweights hit the block. Am i going crazy or is there something im missing here. I checked the numbers on the box and it is an lml crank. Bought it from gm parts direct.

 

[S Phinney]

There is not a problem with that combination. Maybe double check very closely that the crank is actually seated on the mains.

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[The Kansan]

I know it was seated bc i torqued the main caps on and they were seated fine and the girdle was seated to the bottom of the block as well. ill post up a video or some pictures to show you whats going on.

 

[The Kansan]

Dont mind the smudge on the crank its just from the plastigauge.

 

[ikeG]

Looks like a super early lb7 block? Not sure if that explains the issue or not. I just learned in the past couple weeks that there are differences in the castings, but im only aware of external features.

 

[The Kansan]

ya i dont see this thing working at all. kinda bummed if thats the case. may have a whole bunch of built motor parts for sale. Im building a 6.0 turbo gasser too and could use the money for that. ive got too much shit going on and a lil fed up with the dmax stuff right now. If anyone has any ideas id really appreciate some help on this.

 

[IOWA LLY]

Die grinder to the block should do the trick.........lol.

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[hondarider552]

Die grinder to the block should do the trick.........lol.

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Thought that was only a cummings modification lol!!

 

[custom8726]

Curious on this "LML In a LB7 Block" discussion. It was my understanding it was a direct bolt in from reading on here??

 

[malibu795]

I put a LML crank in a lb7/lly block, what year idk
Its definitely tighter clearance than a lbz/LMM block

X2 clearance the main web for the counter weight

 

[Ne-max]

I have a lly block you can have for FREE..

 

[jwrkansas]

Shoot I've got a couple lbz blocks and I'm not too far from ya

 

[Ne-max]

Shoot I've got a couple lbz blocks and I'm not too far from ya

A lbz block would work and is stronger

 

[S Phinney]

There shouldn't be a problem clearancing the block. That's what you do with small block chevy stroker motors. Usually have to clearance the pan rail and bottom of a couple cylinders on those. Just get .100 clearance.

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[The Kansan]

Thanks for the replys. This block is already machined ,has freeze plugs and been painted ready to assemble so id like to use it if i can. ALready spent money on this one and dont want to pay for machine work again if i can help it. Ill look again and see if i can get enough clearance by using die grinder. I thought about that but wanted some opinions on it. Ill just have to yank freeze plugs out of it and clean it really well before assembling if thats the case.

 

[The Kansan]

Rotating assembly hasnt been balanced yet so if it doesnt work ill probly sell this LML crank and put a new lb7 crank in.

 

[Ne-max]

Has me curious. What style damper and flex plate you using? Or you doing the internal balancing?

 

[The Kansan]

Im using a Socal Billet LB7 flexplate and an ATi damper.

 

[Ne-max]

Im using a Socal Billet LB7 flexplate and an ATi damper.

Ok. Always wondered why style to use with the lml crank. Was not sure lb7/lly or lbz/lmn.

Kind of odd no one else chimmed in on the block issue.

 

[The Kansan]

Ya seems like people only chime in on threads if you have a few thousand posts or are well known and im not one of those people.