The engine builder wanted me to do the rod's, I'm considering the option but $2k more for carillo's I'm starting to have engine heart burn. Oh well its only money
Like said its not more if you take away things you really do not need.
LLY: LLY Rod Bolts
- Thread starter rebel7777
- Start date
Like said its not more if you take away things you really do not need.
I agree with everyone here. If money were limited the FIRST thing that I would do is the rods. We have bent, broken, and put rods through an LLY block with stock headbolts without ever blowing a gasket. Build a solid bottom end first with the money you have to work with, then start adding the more optional things like head work, cam, turbo, injectors, ect. - all of those things can be added relatively cheap after the motor is in without needing to be rebalanced.
I wanted the stock rods not my builder, he recommended Carillo's and I didn't want to spend the money.
Since posting my questions, I have had a change of heart and ordered up carillo's now, again it's only money.:thumb:
Since posting my questions, I have had a change of heart and ordered up carillo's now, again it's only money.:thumb:
It's just money...they print it everyday!!
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08 LMM Chevy CCSB
Relentless Diesel trans
JoshH EfiLive tuning
554hp 1014ft-lbs 7/30/11
Since we are on the subject of a new rebuild, I want the possibility to add a twin later, where could a guy drill a hole in the block for the oil return for the twin?
You'll be glad you did rods. The peace of mind will be worth more than the money spent. Now you can throw what you want at the engine and feel pretty comfortable with it.
Why not tape and drill the block? It's already at the machine shop it wouldn't take much to do right now. I just need to know were on the block???
Why would you drill and tap the block when it is so much easier to do the non-structural upper oil pan?
The block has the ability to take threads better than the pan, I would have to utilize a bulk head style fitting on the pan, I would rathar do the block. Makes it even easier for working on the engine if I have to remove the pan later for any reason. You can't tell me there isn't a place on the block to tap and thread??? I dont always want the easy way out, help me guys
you're thinking the oil drain fitting through WAY to much. it's a drain fitting,, why in the hell would you wanna punch holes in a good block if there was no advantage to it?? weld the fitting in if you're worried about using a bulkhead or threaded fitting. and really to drop the pan it would be one more hose to disconnect,, if you're worried about that you'll despise working on a twined truck,,,
to update this ARP now has rod bolts available,, 230-6301. I've got a set coming to try out in my build. they give specs in stretch and ft lbs. I'll be using the stretch method.
Not that you can everytime, but stretch method is always the best spec to go by. Followed by angle than torque
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yep. and these will get stretched twice. once to check cap distortion with these and again during final assembly.
Are you using these in a set of stock LLY/LB7 rods? I've never seen a rob bolt that failed before the rod itself so I just don't see the point.