I'll keep everyone updated.
Josh are there any issues with running an aftermarket cam and stock heads?
Just my opinion:
Rods (Id prefer Crower)
Cut LB7/LLY pistons (coated tops?)
Main studs with line hone
Head studs with torque plate hone
Crank balanced w/SoCal dampner
(minimum) 70% injectors
Remanned stock heads with stronger springs
Stock cam
Dual CP3
Bigger Twins (sorry...only real way to make it "streetable" is twins)
New -- Rings (Mahle), Bearings (Clevite H series), Headgaskets (GM "C") Flywheel/balancer bolts & Gaskets/Orings (whatever you couldnt salvage), Oil pump
Key crank, cam & oil pump, weld water pump
Theres probably some stuff in there that I forgot. Building a Duramax always costs more than you budget.
very nice list you have Tom.
The only thing you might want to do with the heads is swap in a set of upgraded springs and retainers if you are going to run an aftermarket cam. I still have stock castings and valves and just upgraded the springs and retainers with parts from SoCal. If you run a big cam, you will have to have valve reliefs cut in the pistons.I'll keep everyone updated.
Josh are there any issues with running an aftermarket cam and stock heads?
I am still running stock pushrods and have had no problem with them. I'm sure I'm not the only one either.stock pushrods i believe is the only issue. i was told they break.
So the plan so far is S475 with race cover and 1.10 housing and 100 overs :thumb:
I say if your going to do it once do it right the first time. 700 to 800 i would think that is getting close to girdle territory, but that is just my opinion. Go on and do the cam atleast. It is alot more cost effective to do it all at once unless your doing the work yourself and don't mind the down time. Also the stock heads seem to do decent i "heard" treat is or was running stock heads with springs.