LLY Fun

baggedLB7

Goer
May 1, 2011
688
4
18
Utah
Hey all,
Its been a few years since I've been real active on here mostly due to life. New girl, new job, new house, new old Chevelle.
Anyhow I had a mechanic buddy turn me on to an 05 ccsb Duramax with150,000 on it that he had been working on for the owner for a few years. Little back story on the truck about a year ago it lost the head gaskets and instead of fixing it the owner bought a used motor and had my buddy put it in for him. Well a couple months back they figure it cracked a piston and the owner is done with it. My buddy new I was looking for a new hunting/winter rig and put me in touch with the owner and after an incredible cash deal I am the proud new owner of an 05 with two bad motors and a new set of injectors.lol
So my plans are I'm building the motor with the bad head gaskets which I have torn down and I'm looking for any input on cheap tricks/fixes and mods for llys to do to this motor while it is apart. Like I said it will mostly be used for hunting and winter driving with some weekend towing with a decent tow tune and a stock trans so no need for anything fancy.
So far this is what I've done and ordered.
Crank checked and heads surfaced.
Head studs.
All new gaskets.
All new bearings.
Water pump.
Mel oil pump.
Push rods. Had a couple bent.
Glow Plugs.
Newer style 14 row oil cooler.
External fluidyne oil cooler.
Pvc reroute.
Race valve fuel plug.
Mishimito T stats.
Kennedy fan clutch.
LBZ mouth peace and intake.
Profab manifolds and up pipes. Had these laying on the shelf.
Profab 3" down pipe.
Turbo needs rebuild so port polish, Wetzel wheel and a ten blade turbine with figures vanes.

Any feed back is appreciated.
 
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Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,224
1,326
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
1) What bearings did you order? I.E. P series/H series/HX series from Mahle?
2) If you haven't received the 17-19 oil cooler and are willing to cut a heat shield tab off the exhaust manifold I would highly recommend going to the 2020 cooler, it has 20 rows and is an easy bolt on with some new bolts and the adapter from GM.
3) Make sure your tuner updates the file for the LBZ intake.
4) IMO an upgraded wheel is nice but I don't think you'll see a massive benefit for the cost outlay. At that point you're better off getting a drop in 64mm as you won't be too much cheaper to rebuild/port/polish/billet wheel.



I would also look at doing a Danville or Fleece remote oil feed line to the turbo to eliminate the possibility of the cam bearing moving or being installed incorrectly and blocking the oil supply line.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
Hey all,
Its been a few years since I've been real active on here mostly due to life. New girl, new job, new house, new old Chevelle.
Anyhow I had a mechanic buddy turn me on to an 05 ccsb Duramax with150,000 on it that he had been working on for the owner for a few years. Little back story on the truck about a year ago it lost the head gaskets and instead of fixing it the owner bought a used motor and had my buddy put it in for him. Well a couple months back they figure it cracked a piston and the owner is done with it. My buddy new I was looking for a new hunting/winter rig and put me in touch with the owner and after an incredible cash deal I am the proud new owner of an 05 with two bad motors and a new set of injectors.lol
So my plans are I'm building the motor with the bad head gaskets which I have torn down and I'm looking for any input on cheap tricks/fixes and mods for llys to do to this motor while it is apart. Like I said it will mostly be used for hunting and winter driving with some weekend towing with a decent tow tune and a stock trans so no need for anything fancy.
So far this is what I've done and ordered.
Crank checked and heads surfaced.
Head studs.
All new gaskets.
All new bearings.
Push rods. Had a couple bent.
Glow Plugs.
Newer style 14 row oil cooler.
External fluidyne oil cooler.
Pvc reroute.
Race valve fuel plug.
Mishimito T stats.
Kennedy fan clutch.
LBZ mouth peace and intake.
Profab manifolds and up pipes. Had these laying on the shelf.
Profab 3" down pipe.
Turbo needs rebuild so port polish, Wetzel wheel and a ten blade turbine with figures vanes.

Any feed back is appreciated.

De-lip the pistons as well Tim. if the block is being decked, have the pistons cut as much as the block was decked. otherwise id leave them. wouldnt hurt to have the rods checked for straightness if the lost a HG and possibly hydrolocked the engine.

otherwise you should be good. id get a new set of main bolts though. they are TTY. dont get studs unless you have the mains line honed.
 

baggedLB7

Goer
May 1, 2011
688
4
18
Utah
1) What bearings did you order? I.E. P series/H series/HX series from Mahle?
2) If you haven't received the 17-19 oil cooler and are willing to cut a heat shield tab off the exhaust manifold I would highly recommend going to the 2020 cooler, it has 20 rows and is an easy bolt on with some new bolts and the adapter from GM.
3) Make sure your tuner updates the file for the LBZ intake.
4) IMO an upgraded wheel is nice but I don't think you'll see a massive benefit for the cost outlay. At that point you're better off getting a drop in 64mm as you won't be too much cheaper to rebuild/port/polish/billet wheel.
I would also look at doing a Danville or Fleece remote oil feed line to the turbo to eliminate the possibility of the cam bearing moving or being installed incorrectly and blocking the oil supply line.

I went with P series bearings.
I am planning on using a sandwich adapter that I already have with my big external oil cooler and am not looking to purchase and customize a new one to make the 2020 work. Plus with llys already having heat issues I'm a little worried about dumping the extra heat into an already undersized cooling system.
I'm only into the turbo upgrade and rebuild just under 500 me performing all the work.
Ill deff look into the feed line. This is the first I've herd of this issue and one of the reasons I started this thread. Thanks

De-lip the pistons as well Tim. if the block is being decked, have the pistons cut as much as the block was decked. otherwise id leave them. wouldnt hurt to have the rods checked for straightness if the lost a HG and possibly hydrolocked the engine.
otherwise you should be good. id get a new set of main bolts though. they are TTY. dont get studs unless you have the mains line honed.

Block wasn't decked and there was no signs of water in the bores when I pulled the heads but I forgot to list that I have a set of good lbz rods on the shelf that will be thrown in just in case I need a little more down the road.
I will deff order me up some new main bolts. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for the info guys. Keep it coming if anyone thinks of anything else.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
I went with P series bearings.
I am planning on using a sandwich adapter that I already have with my big external oil cooler and am not looking to purchase and customize a new one to make the 2020 work. Plus with llys already having heat issues I'm a little worried about dumping the extra heat into an already undersized cooling system.
I'm only into the turbo upgrade and rebuild just under 500 me performing all the work.
Ill deff look into the feed line. This is the first I've herd of this issue and one of the reasons I started this thread. Thanks



Block wasn't decked and there was no signs of water in the bores when I pulled the heads but I forgot to list that I have a set of good lbz rods on the shelf that will be thrown in just in case I need a little more down the road.
I will deff order me up some new main bolts. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for the info guys. Keep it coming if anyone thinks of anything else.

shit totally forgot, key the crank and cam and have the rotating assembly balanced. Feed line is up to you but i dont see the necessary need. easy enough for you to look down the feed hole at the machine shop after the block is done and make sure you can see through to the bottom of the cam bearing. your oil temps will be well enough under control that pressure shouldnt be an issue either. id put the money elsewhere.
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,224
1,326
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
I went with P series bearings.
I am planning on using a sandwich adapter that I already have with my big external oil cooler and am not looking to purchase and customize a new one to make the 2020 work. Plus with llys already having heat issues I'm a little worried about dumping the extra heat into an already undersized cooling system.
I'm only into the turbo upgrade and rebuild just under 500 me performing all the work.
Ill deff look into the feed line. This is the first I've herd of this issue and one of the reasons I started this thread. Thanks.


I'd highly suggest getting H series bearings, they are a large improvement over P series.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
I'd highly suggest getting H series bearings, they are a large improvement over P series.

For his application, its more than enough. again, no sense throwing money at a part thats overkill for what he plans to do.
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,224
1,326
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
For his application, its more than enough. again, no sense throwing money at a part thats overkill for what he plans to do.

Yes and no, a better bearing is never a bad idea. I would assume he already has them. If not, there isn't a huge cost delta between them, especially if he plans on ever making more power down the road.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
Yes and no, a better bearing is never a bad idea. I would assume he already has them. If not, there isn't a huge cost delta between them, especially if he plans on ever making more power down the road.

Tim's been around a long time. hes been down alot of these avenues and is well versed in these trucks
 

baggedLB7

Goer
May 1, 2011
688
4
18
Utah
Thanks James although ive been around a min as I go threw new threads I realize there's alot ive missed during my hiatus. Lol
Bd
I do already have the p series and thanks for the suggestion as James says for my plans these will be good as I have some decent self control. Im actually going on 7 years on my stock bottom end and head bolts on my dually so I'm saving all the good stuff and racing goodies for a swap I've had planned for a long time now.haha
 

baggedLB7

Goer
May 1, 2011
688
4
18
Utah
Wasnt thinking but the up pipes I have are not smashed. Anyone put unsmashed up pipes in a single truck. Can they be persuaded farely easy?
Or it's it more work than it's worth?
 

baggedLB7

Goer
May 1, 2011
688
4
18
Utah
Well I messed up the center section of my turbo which wasn't to big of a deal since I had another on the truck. And since I didn't feel like fighting with it on the truck I decided to see what I could find online and posted on here and looked around.
Ended up finding an old 472 over stock kit that came with a factory turbo from a fine gentleman on here that was willing to work with me and we made a deal.
So now it looks like I am going to be saving for a trans and with funding the way it is and after a few phone calls I will most likely be going with a DIY kit from Evan.

Now for my next question and need.
I am looking for some suggestions on who can and will tune this for me.
Please keep all responses to PMs if you will.
Thanks
 

KyleC4

Tech
Dec 30, 2016
470
48
28
Bay Area
I still go back to your first post of the simple tow tune hunting tow rig with stock trans to its getting twins now lol. It’s funny how the right deal or circumstances shift plans.
 

baggedLB7

Goer
May 1, 2011
688
4
18
Utah
Yes it is. But honestly after daily driving and towing with a twinned truck I knew I wasn't going to be happy with it. But with what I spent on the truck and my plans to use it there was no way I was going to dump the money into it. But when opportunities arise.:rofl:
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,224
1,326
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
Anyone else think it beneficial to use header wrap on the coolant to oil cooler cross over pipe?


I don't think it would hurt but I also don't think you'll see a benefit. The GPM of coolant flow through that tube is insane so the fluid doesn't sit anywhere near long enough to get any sort of heat soak. Luckily heat also goes up so theoretically, in an ideal world, you won't see a ton of manifold heat into it especially if any air is moving through that area.
 

Lparrill

And here we go again
Jul 30, 2010
445
9
18
Lander, WY
Anyone else think it beneficial to use header wrap on the coolant to oil cooler cross over pipe?

I was told by Wade Boyd at Diesel Day Dreams that it would be beneficial when I had my old race truck. But I don’t have any data to back that up either :eek:
 

OleBlackyLBZ

Active member
May 22, 2020
353
85
28
Hey all,
Its been a few years since I've been real active on here mostly due to life. New girl, new job, new house, new old Chevelle.
Anyhow I had a mechanic buddy turn me on to an 05 ccsb Duramax with150,000 on it that he had been working on for the owner for a few years. Little back story on the truck about a year ago it lost the head gaskets and instead of fixing it the owner bought a used motor and had my buddy put it in for him. Well a couple months back they figure it cracked a piston and the owner is done with it. My buddy new I was looking for a new hunting/winter rig and put me in touch with the owner and after an incredible cash deal I am the proud new owner of an 05 with two bad motors and a new set of injectors.lol
So my plans are I'm building the motor with the bad head gaskets which I have torn down and I'm looking for any input on cheap tricks/fixes and mods for llys to do to this motor while it is apart. Like I said it will mostly be used for hunting and winter driving with some weekend towing with a decent tow tune and a stock trans so no need for anything fancy.
So far this is what I've done and ordered.
Crank checked and heads surfaced.
Head studs.
All new gaskets.
All new bearings.
Water pump.
Mel oil pump.
Push rods. Had a couple bent.
Glow Plugs.
Newer style 14 row oil cooler.
External fluidyne oil cooler.
Pvc reroute.
Race valve fuel plug.
Mishimito T stats.
Kennedy fan clutch.
LBZ mouth peace and intake.
Profab manifolds and up pipes. Had these laying on the shelf.
Profab 3" down pipe.
Turbo needs rebuild so port polish, Wetzel wheel and a ten blade turbine with figures vanes.

Any feed back is appreciated.
I am running a melling oil pump in my lbz motor and I would much rather have the pinned oil pump from wagler... there have been some failures with the mellings.
 
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