Let's Talk About Electric Water Pumps

[sweetdiesel]

This is similar to what you're talking about Mike. These come with a digital controller to "throttle" the pump according to water temp. I don't see a reason why you couldn't use a different input or rheostat control to up the output of an electric pump to suit your needs.

Click here.

I was thinking the same thing Levi, However the electric is rated at 55gpm max. its probably only flowing 30 gpm with pressure and all the restrictions.

How does increasing the voltage help with out burning up the motor as it is only inteaded to do so much? Or am i way off base

 

[sweetdiesel]

being its not a sealed impeller, i dont see why it wouldnt flow through

I spoke with Jerry at Meziere and he thought it wouldnt work very well

 

[Chevy1925]

I spoke with Jerry at Meziere and he thought it wouldnt work very well

could always put the shaft on a one way clutch/bearing, then the impeller will just spin when the electric one turns on to reduce resistance

 

[sweetdiesel]

could always put the shaft on a one way clutch/bearing, then the impeller will just spin when the electric one turns on to reduce resistance

James,
i think he was thinking the electric was going to not alow enough flow thru it and possibly cavitate the mechanical. A person could put a bypass on the electric with a chack valve but this is getting to complicated

 

[Chevy1925]

James,
i think he was thinking the electric was going to not alow enough flow thru it and possibly cavitate the mechanical. A person could put a bypass on the electric with a chack valve but this is getting to complicated

oh oh i see what you mean. trying to flow through the electric pump, im thinkin the other way lol

 

[DPC]

I would think having one on the T-stat housing would help burp the block. Having the radiator cap or reservoir above block height doesn't guarantee zero air bubbles are trapped in cavities in the system.

Regarding Guy's first post. Is there an area to tap into the water port to run an external water line back to the radiator? That would alleviate the high pressure/temperature area and promote flow in the hot spot area.

Something like a coolant bypass kit used on the cummins?

http://www.puredieselpower.com/cata...t-reduce-block-pressure-high-rpm-p-32358.html

 

[05smoker]

What is everyone doing with the T-stats in the electric pump setups?

 

[Turbo Performance]

Something like a coolant bypass kit used on the cummins?

http://www.puredieselpower.com/cata...t-reduce-block-pressure-high-rpm-p-32358.html

Basically. It's a simple enough solution if you can plumb a line into the area causing problems.

What is everyone doing with the T-stats in the electric pump setups?

I'm not going to run T-stats on mine since I have the controller to throttle the pump but I'm not in a factory body. There's also a small concern in my mind that running without T-stats will cause an issue with overheating since there's nothing to slow the water down and create enough water pressure in the block.

 

[05smoker]

I had basically just the frames of my thermostats and once I had all my cup issues solved we had no overheating issues while pulling or dynoing. We had also plumbed the other side of the block too.

 

[Stingpuller]

Electric

I run one on the dragster with a little radiator. I talked to Guy about this a couple of moths ago. So far so good but the guy at the machine shop said the valve seats were out a little when he did them in the spring. I also run my car on 16 volt which makes everything work better.

 

[Trippin]

oops, forgot to mention T-stats.
Thermostats are also a big problem on race trucks. IMHO the truck sits around the pits waiting to run and the t-stats are closed. The truck starts pulls to the line/sled and starts its run before the t-stats are open. So the same thing occurs, not enough coolant flow through the heads at a critical time,the coolant boils locally in the head because the t-stat only sees an average temperature and doesn't open up until well after the damage is done.

 

[Kat]

oops, forgot to mention T-stats.
Thermostats are also a big problem on race trucks. IMHO the truck sits around the pits waiting to run and the t-stats are closed. The truck starts pulls to the line/sled and starts its run before the t-stats are open. So the same thing occurs, not enough coolant flow through the heads at a critical time,the coolant boils locally in the head because the t-stat only sees an average temperature and doesn't open up until well after the damage is done.

That is one of the reasons we run racing thermostats

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

For the low circulation before t-stat opening, has anybody tried removing the restrictor in the bypass line? I could also see blocking off the heater hose outlet as reducing block flow while the stats are closed.

 

[rgullett83]

so racing t stats, and a couple tees check valves and block valves, to isolate the electric pump when the motor is running, and then when in pits run electric, if coolant would flow through mechanical pump? Hope that makes sense

 

[sweetdiesel]

I run a 7/8 washer just to keep back pressure. I also don't think or see how relieving pressure could help as then the water reaches boiling point faster. We actually need pressure!

 

[sweetdiesel]

For the low circulation before t-stat opening, has anybody tried removing the restrictor in the bypass line? I could also see blocking off the heater hose outlet as reducing block flow while the stats are closed.

With just the washers my truck never reaches the temp of even the opening of a race stat

 

[juddski88]

I drilled the edges of my tstats with a 3/16" bit...as many as I could fit...and run a 30lb cap...I also use Detroit power cool mixed 60/40. I'm sure there are a lot of factors to debate with the following data, but its just what I have so far.

Highest average ect with socal stage 2 heads after making passes all day at bandimere some with nitrous, 90deg ambient, was 230ish and would drop to 160 within minutes in the pits for another run.

Running Davids heads, Same power, 10 lbs more boost, running 75deg ambient in NH, ect would only get to 215 after the runs. Nothing else changed between motors. Peak Egts were only 200deg cooler in NH, and that was even without nitrous or cryo2 turned on to cool IAT.

 

[Stingpuller]

Really

You really thick one head from another (both factory casting) there will be a difference between the two? That must be some good soup! This almost sounds like some Wade or Dmitri super special out there that nobody else has got or done type stuff. LOL Sorry but lets get real. Why does a tech tread have to turn into a who's better? This diesel stuff has more johnny come lately im the best my stuff is the best young guns I have ever seen in 30 years of racing cars! Lets fix problems not see who thinks there buddy is the best.

 

[juddski88]

Like I said, maybe the data is marginal to some. But I looked at it like a transmission....some builders stuff runs a lot hotter than others for certain reasons and if they want to overlook those reasons, so be it.

I have no reason to lie to any of you about anything. I had no expectations when I sent David my heads, other than to probably have an issue because that's how it usually works...I have been super impressed at the difference and that's all there is to it.

 

[wrcknkrw]

75 deg to 90 deg makes quite a difference though. I have yet to take my truck down the track but with towing I can tow at 75 with no worries but at 90 my engine gets quite warm.