Seems like both have their downfalls. Power down low exacerbates harmonic issues, power up in the higher rpm creates issues with heat........ pick the lesser of two evils.
Let's Talk About Electric Water Pumps
- Thread starter Trippin
- Start date
That shake I get in every diesel I've owned in the peak torque range sure as hell hell ain't me ripping ass.... k, maybe a couple times. Either way, it's evident, even in gasser's.
Not to say the harmonics are worse, but they are more obvious...... whether it's detrimental to a duramax motor's health is a discussion up to anyone smarter than me to figure out. However, this broken crank problem seems to be a pretty obvious indicator of a harmonics issue to me.
Not to say the harmonics are worse, but they are more obvious...... whether it's detrimental to a duramax motor's health is a discussion up to anyone smarter than me to figure out. However, this broken crank problem seems to be a pretty obvious indicator of a harmonics issue to me.
on a filled block motor running 4500-5000rpm down the track. how many GPM are we supposed to have running through each head?
i've been running an electric water pump since 2009 on the puller and (knock on wood) have had zero issues. but we are making more hp every year so we're open to suggestions.
have all the failures with custom cooling systems been inspected to make sure that the fill point for the water/coolant been higher than the engine to avoid any possible air pockets that could get trapped in the cylinder heads and causing a hot spot.
another factor is what are guys running? water/coolant, straight water, water/water wetter?
i think there's lots of Q's that have to be answered before anyone says you cant run an electric water pump on a competition truck.
i've been running an electric water pump since 2009 on the puller and (knock on wood) have had zero issues. but we are making more hp every year so we're open to suggestions.
have all the failures with custom cooling systems been inspected to make sure that the fill point for the water/coolant been higher than the engine to avoid any possible air pockets that could get trapped in the cylinder heads and causing a hot spot.
another factor is what are guys running? water/coolant, straight water, water/water wetter?
i think there's lots of Q's that have to be answered before anyone says you cant run an electric water pump on a competition truck.
Radiator location is important too. The top of the radiator usually has to be higher than the motor to help keep air purged out.
Make sure there are no places in the plumbing to and from the motor that can trap air.
All of these issues can add up to hot spots in the heads.
Make sure there are no places in the plumbing to and from the motor that can trap air.
All of these issues can add up to hot spots in the heads.
Rick
I understand what you are saying, However having the overflow tank above the motor should suffice...No?
I got bored and did some searching on the internetz, Seems like some one has already tested electric water pumps for use with his motor,Kinda interesting
http://www.rotaryeng.net/electric-water-pumps.html
From GM factory specs it says the cooling system on a LB7 is 71 GPM @ 3172 RPM
I run water and 2 bottles of royal purple watter wetter for alluminum heads.
and run a 21 PSI rad cap. My block is half filled and currently run a S/W pump.
Thanks. We also used a tool from snapon to pull a vaccum on the system and then draw water in to insure theres no air in the system.
Rick
I understand what you are saying, However having the overflow tank above the motor should suffice...No?
I got bored and did some searching on the internetz, Seems like some one has already tested electric water pumps for use with his motor,Kinda interesting
http://www.rotaryeng.net/electric-water-pumps.html
So my next question would be, why does GM have a bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing even though the coolant resi is above that height?
One of the main advantages to the electric pump for me was so I could turn it on in line or before a pulloff to cool the truck quickly and it worked well for that. Outside of that, I would not argue your data as you have seen far more sets of heads than the rest of the guys in this thread combined.
I would think having one on the T-stat housing would help burp the block. Having the radiator cap or reservoir above block height doesn't guarantee zero air bubbles are trapped in cavities in the system.
Regarding Guy's first post. Is there an area to tap into the water port to run an external water line back to the radiator? That would alleviate the high pressure/temperature area and promote flow in the hot spot area.
We used that also, but surpisingly didnt get much out. Hopeing it was because the cooling system was set up properly
Like Levi said
Does anyone know if the mechanical will flow thru it when its not turning? I was thinking of running both electric and a remote mount mech and run it off the drive shaft.
Why couldn't you use a Kenne Bell boost a Pump to crank up the amps on the electric water pump? Might even be able to wire it into the throttle to raise the amps as the pedal goes down and lower them as the pedal comes back up. With an override you might be able to run it hard in the pits. Just thinking out loud.
That's a great idea!
I have one here for my corvette, ready to go on during the supercharger install, and yet never considered it for this application. I guess I'm just to focused on getting the dyno finished so I have an accurate way to test the pump outputs.
This is similar to what you're talking about Mike. These come with a digital controller to "throttle" the pump according to water temp. I don't see a reason why you couldn't use a different input or rheostat control to up the output of an electric pump to suit your needs.
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