That is interesting. The rod and main journals are the same dimensions? Lml Pistons and rods not required?
LBZ vs LML
- Thread starter DmaxKnightmare
- Start date
Personally if your goals are to get to 600whp and stop then I think a set of reconditioned LBZ rods/delipped LB7 pistons would be a great option for you but the key word here is stopping at that point.
If it was me personally I would go down the SoCal street rod/Wagler "as forged" rods with either a delipped LB7 piston or motorsport. I say this because I know power is addicting and it is difficult to stop at times.
I think a 60% to 100% injector would suit you well. I personally wouldn't want to go much bigger than that for your goals. A quality injector can always be punched out larger if needed by them in the future. We use mainly DDP, Exergy, and S&S here at our shop as it's pretty hard to go wrong with those 3.
If it was me personally I would go down the SoCal street rod/Wagler "as forged" rods with either a delipped LB7 piston or motorsport. I say this because I know power is addicting and it is difficult to stop at times.
I think a 60% to 100% injector would suit you well. I personally wouldn't want to go much bigger than that for your goals. A quality injector can always be punched out larger if needed by them in the future. We use mainly DDP, Exergy, and S&S here at our shop as it's pretty hard to go wrong with those 3.
pretty sure josh is saying the crank will go in an older block but you still have to run a L5P rod. the L5P crank has .200 larger dia rod journals over 16 and older cranks. hence why they are far stronger than previous years
If that's the case. Someone needs to do, l5p crank, rods and somehow slap some lb7 pistons on it and see what it can handle lol. Would be neat, alot of wasted time though I'm sure.
I should have been more accurate with my statement. The L5P crank and earlier Duramax cranks will interchange between blocks. The rod journal on an L5P crank is bigger than the others, so the rods are going to be crank specific and have to match the piston and block they are going in. In other words, you can't just slap an L5P crank in an earlier block or vice versa without getting custom rods and/or pistons, but the crank will swap between blocks. That's all I meant when I said they are interchangeable.
Do earlier model heads go on an l5p shortblock? Im sure they dont but..... sure would be sweet if they did. I was looking at a not far from new l5p motor that came out of a wrecked truck but didn't think it would work.
IIRC they will, you just dont use two of the tiny 8mm head bolts the L5P uses. also, pistons are still weak in them.
Like James said, you can bolt the heads on, but the taller deck height means just about everything in the valley will have to be custom (the biggest issue is high pressure fuel lines from CP3 to rail and rail to rail). The other issue will be oil pump/front cover/oil pan issues and reluctor wheel. The earlier reluctor wheel will slide on the crank, but there is no line up dowel from the factory on the L5P crank. It would take a LOT of work to make the L5P short block work with all the earlier Duramax parts, but it has been done.
That's something we are working on trying right now.
What is the general consensus on running 60 over injectors on a stock cp3. Dont want to replace my cp3, if that is NEEDed for 60s. I'll put 45s in if i have to and not run as big of tune!
That would be an interesting thread Josh. I have been thinking that would be fun to do with my truck someday but depending how hard it is it ma never happen.
So, we are a long way from driving the truck and figuring out all the little tuning quirks, but we fired up our L5P on LBZ electronics last week. It idles well and seems to rev pretty cleanly. The truck doesn't have any driveshafts yet, and brakes need to be hooked up and bled. Hopefully it will be driving by the end of the year. S&S is supposed to have the 200% injectors done and headed our way this week.
Is it on a competition only truck? Just throw on the Bastard Stack and let her eat.... lol
Bringing this old thread back from the dead a little. last post was almost a year ago. I am researching what is necessary to fix my 2007 Kodiak 5500 with LLY/LBZ. it has a gnarly rattle/knock that seems to lessen when rpms increase. I am (in my own non diesel guy head) convinced that the noise is a failed wrist pin bushing. I dunno what engine it truly is, LLY or LBZ. the info in this thread has been a good read. i am thinking i might get away with a new bushing or maybe a single piston and rod.
I am also hoping there is an update to the L5P on LBZ electronics update. any update?
thanks for the info.
I am also hoping there is an update to the L5P on LBZ electronics update. any update?
thanks for the info.
Welcome, you might want to start a new thread for this. You will probably get better response without messing up this one with a lot of unrelated information