LB7 Blown head gasket and/or injector cups Part 2 after closed thread!~

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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lol damn im surprised it took that long for someone to finally call me out on it too! lmao, i was thinking about that as i was typin out how autozone/oreilys calls the parts wrong names, then i go callin r134a, freon


Ok ok, R-134a :D
 

rgullett83

Active member
Oct 27, 2008
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lol damn im surprised it took that long for someone to finally call me out on it too! lmao, i was thinking about that as i was typin out how autozone/oreilys calls the parts wrong names, then i go callin r134a, freon


Ok ok, R-134a :D

I have a buddy that works In the hvac field, he is always correcting me, it's called refrigerant he says

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 

fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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Alright now I am trying to remove the thermostat housing crossover and it just seems fused to the heads for some reason. I removed the 3 bolts on each side. Then the 2 lower bolt to the tube going to the water pump. Then the bolt going to the heater core and removed the tube. I am certain nothing else is holding it but it just wouldn't bulge. I had to run so I couldn't play with it much longer but any tips or tricks would be appreciated!@
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
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Central OH
I have a buddy that works In the hvac field, he is always correcting me, it's called refrigerant he says

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Correct. "Freon" was a term that Dupont came up with back in the R-12 days.


Idk how many bolts are supposed to be on the thermostat manifold, but try tapping on it lightly with a rubber mallet.
 

fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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I tried lightly with the mallet... I also tried prying on it to a certain degree. I will try some more when I get a chance.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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Alright now I am trying to remove the thermostat housing crossover and it just seems fused to the heads for some reason. I removed the 3 bolts on each side. Then the 2 lower bolt to the tube going to the water pump. Then the bolt going to the heater core and removed the tube. I am certain nothing else is holding it but it just wouldn't bulge. I had to run so I couldn't play with it much longer but any tips or tricks would be appreciated!@

There should be 4 bolts per side. Well, actually 2 bolts and 2 studs and nuts per side.
 

fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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Well I only took out 3 per side! I will go out looking when I get a chance. That would explain it since I hit pretty good :S
 

ripmf666

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Sep 20, 2006
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Some pic's might help you out Simon

DSCF5751.jpg

DSCF5728.jpg

DSCF5775.jpg
 

fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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Good morning guys! I just didn't see that fourth bolt on each side. It was a little further in and didn't expect it there. Once removed I didn't even have to tap anything the part came right off. Problem solved! Not sure why when I looked at the diagram you gave me the link to Henry I just didn't see it because that is what I am using so far. As of right now the passenger side is clear. The top of the engine still needs to have stuff removed and the driver side. It's incredible the amount of stuff that needs to come off. It's hard for me to work more than 2-3 hours at a time. Having a kid, a job, and a wife that works shifts well things are moving slow. I am taking note of the order I am pulling parts out and putting everything in baggies which as well labeled.

Now I have a question for you guys. I am trying to build myself an injector cup puller using a concrete anchor like in the following link: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31371&page=2. But so far no luck finding the concrete anchor. I went to all hardware stores minus Lowes which I will go to when I get a chance. I also went to a fastener store which couldn't even order 3/4 sizes. All I can find is a 5/8 concrete anchor which is 6" long. Anywhere can I get this... I will even purchase it online if I have to... Or maybe pay shipping and one of you can lend it? Not sure but running around the city at this point makes no sense.
 
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fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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From the thread I actually refered to in my previous link someone mentionned that I can also simply tap the cups out using a head bolt since the heads are removed... Could that possibly damage the cups? Or even the head itself? Thanks for the help!
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
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Not 100% sure, but I would think if you used a brass punch it won't hurt the cups at all, but you slip that head is done
 

fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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I have read a few places that some really recommend replacing all cups. Is there really no issues reusing the cups if they come straight out and look good after cleaning? Just got me a little worried that is all... Wouldn't be any fun having to pull every single injector out because one of them didn't seal.
 

07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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I would inspect them carefully and re-use them if they look good. They can get distorted fairly easily but you should be able to get them out easily when the head is removed. They'll get a little expensive if you replace them all for no reason. Your more likely to have to pull it back apart from not being seated all the way into the bore. It should be no problem with your heads coming off and being inspected but cleanliness of the cup bore and good flush seating of the cup with loctite is what will keep you from tearing it apart again. Been there when I did my injectors.
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
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Minot, ND
I have read a few places that some really recommend replacing all cups. Is there really no issues reusing the cups if they come straight out and look good after cleaning? Just got me a little worried that is all... Wouldn't be any fun having to pull every single injector out because one of them didn't seal.
If the injector is really stuck in a cup or it fights you coming out then replace it, otherwise just reuse them
 

fishv12

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Jan 30, 2011
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I am leaning towards getting some cups just in case with my order since well if I did go to my local stealership to get them I would probably pay for one cup double for what I could get one in the states. This way I am not caught pants down and well I like having the stuff on hand instead of having to run around. I also found the cup puller tool as well.

As for progress well I am almost there but I have some questions.

1.On the driver side the steering shaft seems awfully close to everything does it need to come off? I can tell that that side will be a pain in the rear :)

2. The exhaust manifolds nuts/bolts seem to be rusty as hell... Not sure how those nuts are going to be. Thinking it might be better to remove them on the truck since it will hold them down while I take them off. I will start by soaking them in some good penetrating oil first for several days until I get there then maybe taking my impact on them where I can and a huge breaker bar elsewhere unless I hear of other tips/tricks!

3. According to the above "rusty" question that means my glow plugs are in there nice and snug too... Any tips/tricks on that would be appreciated.

4. The fuel lines spider web traveling to the pump and injectors. Do they come out in somewhat of a whole assembly... There is lots of plumbing there! I know the injector lines come out one by one but yeah I am kind of hoping I don't have tons of little lines to reconnect...

5. Yesterday I stopped where my fuel line disconnect tool didn't take out the 1/2 inch line. I doesn't seem to bottom far enough to unclip it. I am going to get another one of these... The 3/8 line came out with no issues. My question is how do you move the hard fuel lines going to the fuel tank far enough away to work without risking bending them or anything. Just push on them? Or is there something i am missing here.

So far I have quite a few pages written of information in order the parts came out. I also have heck of a long spider web of wires! Hopefully I will remember how it all went because there is LOTS of it... Everything is labeled but it's a real spagetti factory.
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
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Minot, ND
I am leaning towards getting some cups just in case with my order since well if I did go to my local stealership to get them I would probably pay for one cup double for what I could get one in the states. This way I am not caught pants down and well I like having the stuff on hand instead of having to run around. I also found the cup puller tool as well.

As for progress well I am almost there but I have some questions.

1.On the driver side the steering shaft seems awfully close to everything does it need to come off? I can tell that that side will be a pain in the rear :)

Not sure, I had my engine out when I did mine

2. The exhaust manifolds nuts/bolts seem to be rusty as hell... Not sure how those nuts are going to be. Thinking it might be better to remove them on the truck since it will hold them down while I take them off. I will start by soaking them in some good penetrating oil first for several days until I get there then maybe taking my impact on them where I can and a huge breaker bar elsewhere unless I hear of other tips/tricks!

The only ones I had issues with were the up pipes, I broke some of those but I was able to drill them out, I think most of mine the nut didn't turn but the entire stud came out, but it has been a while

3. According to the above "rusty" question that means my glow plugs are in there nice and snug too... Any tips/tricks on that would be appreciated.


some pb blaster might help, but don't think there is a trick, they are not that strong. Might be a good idea to just put new ones back in, if you crank on them it might damage them, then break a tip off 2000 miles down the road and really bang stuff up


4. The fuel lines spider web traveling to the pump and injectors. Do they come out in somewhat of a whole assembly... There is lots of plumbing there! I know the injector lines come out one by one but yeah I am kind of hoping I don't have tons of little lines to reconnect...

they are a PITA, and are really tight. When you put it back together, you will want to check for leaks, but, never ever put your hand anywhere near a HP like with the truck running, even from a distace away it can inject fuel under your skin and take the skin off your entire hand like a glove. They are somewhat tight. When you pull them off lots of times there will be a lot of rust sitting on top of the injector ( http://merchant-automotive.com/tech/lb7line.pdf )

5. Yesterday I stopped where my fuel line disconnect tool didn't take out the 1/2 inch line. I doesn't seem to bottom far enough to unclip it. I am going to get another one of these... The 3/8 line came out with no issues. My question is how do you move the hard fuel lines going to the fuel tank far enough away to work without risking bending them or anything. Just push on them? Or is there something i am missing here.

yea they are a pain, sometimes you have to fight with them. I wouldn't worry about bending them too much, but iirc they have a braket on the back of the head that holds them there


So far I have quite a few pages written of information in order the parts came out. I also have heck of a long spider web of wires! Hopefully I will remember how it all went because there is LOTS of it... Everything is labeled but it's a real spagetti factory.

don't have all the info but that should help
 

fishv12

Member
Jan 30, 2011
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1. Hopefully someone can chime in on the steering shaft.

2. I imagine you just replaced these studs with new ones. Hopefully I will be able to spin them free without having to go down that route but prepare for the worst.

3. I have brand new glow plugs on order. All 8 of them are to be replaced with new ones anyways. Question is will they come out... and in one piece?

4. Alright just so I get this straight for about the fuel lines and the statement below:

When you put it back together, you will want to check for leaks, but, never ever put your hand anywhere near a HP like with the truck running, even from a distace away it can inject fuel under your skin and take the skin off your entire hand like a glove.

This is scary and turning into a Duramax horror flick! Not looking to go to the hospital here I enjoy my skin where it is. So just so I understand what you said do not put your hands around these lines with the truck running... Got you! When you said HP I suppose you meant high pressure fuel line. How much pressure are we talking about here? ~60psi?

The fuel lines zig zag around the CP3 pump like crazy I haven't really followed the pattern closely but anyways. Does it come out in several pieces or can it somehow come out as one? I suppose I can check the reference manual for this. I will start with the injector lines then move from my way there.