Thanks for answering my question rgullett83. Another question for you since you done it engine in. I have read a few places that having a flex head torque wrench makes the job much easier. What I have is a standard torque wrench without a flex... Now a flex torque wrench runs for 300$ :S Is it possible to do without with the engine in or you would not even consider it lol.
LB7 Blown head gasket and/or injector cups Part 2 after closed thread!~
- Thread starter fishv12
- Start date
As for milling the heads what's the maximum they can take off? I was reading that I need to provide that figure to the shop doing the work.
As well I suppose If I can get them to reseal the cups great but otherwise leave them in and reseal them myself when I get my heads back so they will have milled the cups flat with the head and I will simply pull them out and reseal... Just curious to know what you guys think.
As well I suppose If I can get them to reseal the cups great but otherwise leave them in and reseal them myself when I get my heads back so they will have milled the cups flat with the head and I will simply pull them out and reseal... Just curious to know what you guys think.
Cups should be out when the heads are milled. You reinstall with GM anaerobic sealer then I stall injectors and tighten. Do them one at a time. Don't install all cups then injectors.
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I think you will be ok without the flex head, but it definitely makes it easier. Gm says no more than .006" taken off, but I have had .010" tAken off with no issues. Also be cautious with your torque wrench and valve stems don't ask me how I know lol
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As long as the seat keeps enough contact area and valve recess us keep within specs you can take more off. You will need to but the intake side half as much as cutting the valve side to keep the distances between heads good enough that it doesn't effect the y bridge fitting right. You would also need to tip the valves to keep geometry good.
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Alright thanks for the tips everyone! I have some more questions. I will number them so it doesn't get out of track.
Questions:
1. Thanks S Phinney about the tip on resealing the cups. I am not sure where I read this but someone installed the cups before he got his heads milled so they can mill them flush. Heck maybe I misread. SO when I get the heads back I should seal one cup at a time to the head using red loctite and new o rings with a bit of lube I assume then install the injector right away then repeat. Now from the sounds of it one would do that with the heads in the truck. I still haven't read much about this since I am not even at the valve covers yet but it's always good to know ahead of time.
2. Well this is more in relation to where I am sitting at right now. I feel like a dumbass but whatever here it is. While lifting my alternator out of the way I used a screw driver to pry it up not really thinking it pushed on the AC manifold tube which is on top of the AC compressor and well next thing I know it goes pfffffttttt! And proceeded to empty out gas. I broke the pipe at the joint. Now well I have to fix my AC at the same time which I assume I just emtied so I may just as well remove out of the way now. My question is the following... I never did AC work so I have no idea of what it all involves but did a little bit of research. Since I just blew the pipe the compressor and everything else is fine. Can I just unbolt the manifold from the compressor, remove the line and evaportator at the same time and leave the system open or should I cap all openings. If I cap them what should I use to temporary block the holes? When re-installing I obviously need a new manifold hose but should I also replace the evaporator since it's been exposed to air? Wouldn't think so since the compressor didn't go on the truck but just curious as what parts I should add in my bin to order. Now I know that when I get the system re-hooked well I will need to get it sucked out of all moisture and all then re-filled. I just want to know what needs to be done in between.
Questions:
1. Thanks S Phinney about the tip on resealing the cups. I am not sure where I read this but someone installed the cups before he got his heads milled so they can mill them flush. Heck maybe I misread. SO when I get the heads back I should seal one cup at a time to the head using red loctite and new o rings with a bit of lube I assume then install the injector right away then repeat. Now from the sounds of it one would do that with the heads in the truck. I still haven't read much about this since I am not even at the valve covers yet but it's always good to know ahead of time.
2. Well this is more in relation to where I am sitting at right now. I feel like a dumbass but whatever here it is. While lifting my alternator out of the way I used a screw driver to pry it up not really thinking it pushed on the AC manifold tube which is on top of the AC compressor and well next thing I know it goes pfffffttttt! And proceeded to empty out gas. I broke the pipe at the joint. Now well I have to fix my AC at the same time which I assume I just emtied so I may just as well remove out of the way now. My question is the following... I never did AC work so I have no idea of what it all involves but did a little bit of research. Since I just blew the pipe the compressor and everything else is fine. Can I just unbolt the manifold from the compressor, remove the line and evaportator at the same time and leave the system open or should I cap all openings. If I cap them what should I use to temporary block the holes? When re-installing I obviously need a new manifold hose but should I also replace the evaporator since it's been exposed to air? Wouldn't think so since the compressor didn't go on the truck but just curious as what parts I should add in my bin to order. Now I know that when I get the system re-hooked well I will need to get it sucked out of all moisture and all then re-filled. I just want to know what needs to be done in between.
Where can I find those plugs since I don't have any... I always throw those things out. I suppose I can always use some tuck tape... Seals vapor barrier and all. Just tape them right off.
As for the evap canister you would recommend replacing it... What is the reason behind doing that I am just curious.
As for the evap canister you would recommend replacing it... What is the reason behind doing that I am just curious.
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plastic bags and some rubber bands work very well or even tape. dont worry about making it air tight, by now you already have a bad receiver/dryer (its not called an evap canister though i think the retards at oreilys call it that or something). all you wanna do is keep water/dirt out for now. The receiver/dryer is also known to be called the accumulator but those are found on different vehicle than ours. We use a much simpler a/c system. again, oreilys/autozone/others may have it listed under that name which is again wrong but not much i can do about that lol
when you get your new line, buy a new receiver/dryer and keep it capped in the box till you get to the shop whos doing the work. It also wouldnt hurt to buy a new orifice tube as well (basically its a small filter although it serves a much bigger purpose that just that, and its cheap) If you want to stop by harbor freight and pick up a set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump, i can walk you through how to refill the system properly but thats about 250 bucks in tools right there. not to mention the other 40 bucks you will need in freon, oil, and the little pint can popper for the manifold gauges.
a garage will probably charge ya 200 bucks or so including the freon if you bring the parts in needed and just tell them you need a recharge after putting your new parts on.
I say to keep the receiver/dryer capped because inside there are these little desiccant pieces inside that absorb moisture from the a/c system. You know those little bags in new shoes that say "DO NOT EAT" or "KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN", the little balls inside those bags work the same as whats in your receiver/dryer. As soon as you pop a cap off that receiver/dryer, it looses the vacuum that is inside the canister and the desiccant goes to work. Most people say you have about an hour before its ruined. i personally just replace it each time. less headache and you know its fresh stuff down there doin its job.
Alright now I understand! So my question to you now is once I have everything removed, compressor etc then I cap all lines. Once I am done my head gasket job and ready to reinstall everything can I just bolt on everything including my new receiver/dryer and all and then drive over to get my AC vacuumed and recharged or do I really have to let them install the receiver/dryer. I would think that with the system closed it shouldn't be an issue and I would prefer just bolting everything down myself and just paying for a vacuum and recharge. The other thing I am curious about is that I was reading that there is a preset amount of oil in the receiver/dryer... that you measure that amount by emptying the old one and refilling the new one with that same amount of oil. Does that apply? Or is the new receiver dryer already filled with the right type of oil and the the right amount. If not then what type of oil should I use? Lots of questions I know.
Thanks in advance! So now I know my receiver dryer is toast. The orifice tube seems very easy to replace and if you say it's good practice and cheap to replace I may as well do that too. I am getting all the parts ordered at the same time so I will be adding it all to the shopping cart!
Thanks in advance! So now I know my receiver dryer is toast. The orifice tube seems very easy to replace and if you say it's good practice and cheap to replace I may as well do that too. I am getting all the parts ordered at the same time so I will be adding it all to the shopping cart!
No, do not install that receiver/dryer till you get to the shop. Like i said, as soon as you pull the caps, the vacuum is lost in the receiver/dryer that it was shipped with and moisture instantly enters the dryer allowing the desiccant to absorb it immediately. even though you close the system via bolting it back together, you still have a bunch of moisture in lines just from normal air entering it.
you can install everything else and leave the old receiver/dryer on it for the time being, just dont turn the a/c on or defrost (defrost will kick your a/c compressor on). Dont worry much about the oil its not prefilled anywhere and the system takes 6-8oz max. tell the shop what all you did and they can determind how much to add. all you would need is 1-2oz MAX. this is done usually by their machine they have.
to get rid of moisture in the system, you must put it under a vacuum. doing so boils any moisture and removes it from the system. having it in the system wont allow the freon to work correctly and can really put a damper on hot day for ya. This is why you need to wait till the shop installs the receiver/dryer.
you can install everything else and leave the old receiver/dryer on it for the time being, just dont turn the a/c on or defrost (defrost will kick your a/c compressor on). Dont worry much about the oil its not prefilled anywhere and the system takes 6-8oz max. tell the shop what all you did and they can determind how much to add. all you would need is 1-2oz MAX. this is done usually by their machine they have.
to get rid of moisture in the system, you must put it under a vacuum. doing so boils any moisture and removes it from the system. having it in the system wont allow the freon to work correctly and can really put a damper on hot day for ya. This is why you need to wait till the shop installs the receiver/dryer.
Well here goes the next question... I have a second car (2005 Mazda 3) to replace an AC compressor on since the retards at Mazda didn't make the clutch a serviceable item. You pretty much have to replace the whole compressor. Now my question to you is what if I get the vacuum tool to vac the moisture out of it then is it okay if I install the receiver dryer and get a shop to refill it? Or should I at that point since I have two cars to do get the whole manifold as well and do it all myself? Again just thinking out loud and trying to save a few dollars and learn at the same time... I don't mind letting them install the receiver dryer but since I have to do the job twice anyways it would be nice to save a few dollars. All in all I just replace the parts on both cars and let the shop replace the receicer dryers and well vac/refill. But if purchasing the equipment means I am saving a little money and it's not overly too complicated I don't mind doing it. I would think it's easier than a head gasket job lol.
its up to you. i knowing what i know would buy them in a heart beat but damn can a/c systems be finicky. this isnt just a "nut and bolt" procedure as you gotta know what your gauges are telling you and how to adjust for them. i can give you a pretty good run down on how to do it on your truck, but not much on the car as i dont know what are normal operating pressures for it and so on.
headgaskets, there is pretty much only one way to do it. A/C, if you dont know what to look for at the end can give you poor performance in the summer or none at all.
like i say, i can help and get you pretty close on the truck as ive done plenty of chevy HDs. so its up to you. i just had to give some warning as its not like it seems and dont want you cursing my name cause it didnt work
headgaskets, there is pretty much only one way to do it. A/C, if you dont know what to look for at the end can give you poor performance in the summer or none at all.
like i say, i can help and get you pretty close on the truck as ive done plenty of chevy HDs. so its up to you. i just had to give some warning as its not like it seems and dont want you cursing my name cause it didnt work
I will think about it I guess and figure out what I want to do when it comes time. What is the point on fixing the AC system if you don't get ice cold air out of it right. Now I don't mean to sound like an ass but what is different between all of the cars? I would think that you bring it up the manufacturer specs at vacuum and charging then you would be good? Again not trying to be an ass but wouldn't that be what a dealer would do? I am just trying to understand the whole process. I just went through reading the process of evacuating, vaccuuming and charging from the instructions on the manifold at Harbor Freight and well from what you are saying I am sure there is more to that that I am not totally grasping.
Some guys pull 29 lbs vacuum and let it slide while others will run their pumps for timed intervals. If you run for ten minutes you will be good on vacuum as long as it doesn't. have a leak. Each system requires different oils and amounts if freon. There should be a label in the vehicle that gives you that info.
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the problem lays with what you need to see for pressures on the gauges and when you know your in a good realm. on our trucks, 29-40psi on the low side and 175-300 on the high side is great operating pressures. on the mazda, it could be 10psi less all around, 50psi higher on one side and 10psi lower on the other and ect. there is a spec for each car that the factory sets it at and its not easy to find ive found. without knowing where you need to be, i cant say if you have a blockage somewhere, too less of freon, too much, or if a/c will be running its best. being its cold out this time of year makes it harder to say you hit the nail on the head with it as well.
its kinda like setting up gears in a rear end. there is an art to it. while most can do it, others know jsut by looking at a few things whether its just right or not.
i also let my vacuum pump run for 30 min on humid hot days, 15 min in the winter unless its raining out. does it make a difference? imop, ive felt it but we are talking a 2* difference between the two on hot humid days. most people wont hardly feel that difference on a hot day
Each system is design with a specified amount if freon. When reading the numbers on low and high side airflow is relevant to readings especially on the high side. Those readings are a guide for charging but best used for diagnosing cooling problems.
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Well from the sound of it I will be paying the dealer to do it but thanks for explaining it to me. In some ways it sucks but whatever. At least now I understand AC systems a little better. I was just trying to save myself some cash since well it doesn't grow on trees but you all know that Can't wait to have my truck back. Yesterday I had to push it out of the shop so I could replace a thermostat in my current daily driver I purchased and on the fence about keeping. It's a 2003 Mazda Tribute. Thermostat got stuck closed and the engine was running hot. Good thing it was like -30 degree celcius outside yesterday it kept it cold.
For the AC from the sound of it the dealer would be the best bet? Hopefully I won't have any other glitches but I have a feeling that it's not over yet lol.
Can't wait to have my truck back. Yesterday I had to push it out of the shop so I could replace a thermostat in my current daily driver I purchased and on the fence about keeping. It's a 2003 Mazda Tribute. Thermostat got stuck closed and the engine was running hot. Good thing it was like -30 degree celcius outside yesterday it kept it cold.For the AC from the sound of it the dealer would be the best bet? Hopefully I won't have any other glitches but I have a feeling that it's not over yet lol.
