Kodiak Engine in my 2500 ?????

custom8726

custom8726

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Feb 25, 2008
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Ended up bringing the motor up to the dealer and they lent me the Rear main seal install tool :thumb: Took 2min in the parking lot;) After seeing how the seal installs and works I am kinda kicking myself in the a$$ for waisting all the time loading the engine and bringing it to the dealer, but hey, atleast I know its right and learned something:) The motor is completly re-assembled and in the truck now, just have to put the front clip on, add fluids, and hopefully test drive:D
 
custom8726

custom8726

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P.O.S. truck wont start:mad: The truck turns over 3 or 4 times and then something causes it to stop turning over (Electronically) It will keep turning over 3 or 4 revolutions if you cycle the key. Not sure what is limiting the amount of time the motor spins over:confused: Regardless of the above issue the motor is not making any attemps to fire. I bled the system at the bleeder on the fuel filter housing and then at a couple injector lines while trying to make sure the rail was getting fuel. I did get a bunch of air out of both locations but nothing changed as far as starting. I am going out of town untill monday evening so I will not have time to mess with it again untill tomorrow night, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions? The last time I had the motor out it fired right back up after a couple minutes of bleading the system. This time I had to change/modify a bunch of pieces do to going back to a stock motor. Would there be anything in my twin turbo / dual fueler tune that would not allow the truck to fire with a stock turbo? I figured it would atleast start on that tuning but maybe not?:confused: I checked all my grounds already aswell. I will have to check for Codes with EFI when I get back and rail pressure but what else am I missing? I know its something simple I am overlooking but damm is this frusterating being this close to having it running and now having to go out of town for a couple of days.:(
 
custom8726

custom8726

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DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7 said:
Batteries? The tuning shouldn't affect anything at idle check your fuses the ecm fuses can do that if its popped
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Battery is good and stayed on the charger through out the initial start (Attempt)

Car RamRod said:
Check the ground on the drivers side core support frame tab, it'll get ya everytime....
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The only ground wire not hooked up is the one from the firewall to the hood.
 
custom8726

custom8726

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I briefly looked at the interior fuse box on Saturday, but will look further into it tomorrow when I get back out there. Now that I think about it, I did notice a blinking red light on my Radio:confused: And my 2 year old son was in there messing with everything including the onstar when I was bleeding the fuel rail, HMM...
 
DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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custom8726 said:
I briefly looked at the interior fuse box on Saturday, but will look further into it tomorrow when I get back out there. Now that I think about it, I did notice a blinking red light on my Radio:confused: And my 2 year old son was in there messing with everything including the onstar when I was bleeding the fuel rail, HMM...
Click to expand...

Hmm... is right let us know what you find there :thumb:
 
custom8726

custom8726

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Well after checking every fuse, harness, ground, etc in the whole dam truck, I started changing sensors. The Good news is After changing out the Crank sensor it turned over normal and fired right up:) The bad news is I have 2 leaks:( Antifreeze leak is on the oil cooler tube were it connects to the back of the water pump (Slow Leak) Not that big of a deal. The one that is going to be a royal PITA is the oil leak I have between the Front plate and block. I assumed when I bought this engine the front (Cover) seal would be fine since it was still together and came out of a running (Wrecked) truck. But as my luck would have it, its leaking just to the right of the harmonic balancer. Am I to assume the front main seal needs to be replaced and also requires the install tool? Well looks Like I will start pulling the front of the truck/motor back apart tomorrow:rolleyes::(
 
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custom8726

custom8726

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Feb 25, 2008
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Got it apart this evening, The only O-Ring between the front plate and block was ripped:rolleyes::) As luck would have it I broke the trans cooler taking it apart tonight aswell:thumb::rolleyes: So Off to GM for a O-ring, Epoxy, and front main seal tomorrow. Probably going to either try to get my cooler fixed locally or hit up a junk yard tomorrow since I am assuming there ridiculously over priced new from GM.

Frontadapterplate2.jpg


Frontadapterplate.jpg
 
Gasuout

Gasuout

Johnny
Mar 20, 2008
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Congrats Brother .....

Would be interested in your old kodiak parts . Exactly what I would need for doing another motor for mine and ready to install . Motor plate , pans , ect . :thumb:
 
custom8726

custom8726

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Gasuout said:
Congrats Brother .....

Would be interested in your old kodiak parts . Exactly what I would need for doing another motor for mine and ready to install . Motor plate , pans , ect . :thumb:
Click to expand...

Sorry Johnny, But the pans have already been spoken for. The intermediate plate, motor mounts, Y Bridge are still available. P.M. me if you need any of the above..
 
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