K10 LS swap

catman3126

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Jul 24, 2012
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NE Oregon
There was some interest in the few LS swaps I have done so I'm going to start a thread for questions and I can post some Pictures of things if people request them. My first LS swap was a 1984 CJ7 with a LS1 from a 2000 WS6 5.7L and now has a 4L60E behind it. this one I uses a PSI conversions Harness since I wanted to be able to put the ECM inside the cab and the harness was long enough to do that. I used a Alluminum radiator from Novak Conversions as it was a bolt in using with trans cooler from them. and I used a Built 4L60E from them that had their adapter tot he Dana 300 T case and one of the things that became an issue when I was running the th350/Dana300 was getting a VSS (vehicle Speed signal) to the Ecm which is critical for correct engine operation and not to mentions trans. I tried a couple speed signal generators which didn't work. and when the Th350 gave out I bought the novak trans that had their version of the 40 pulse tone ring built into it in the tailshaft of the trans and problem solved. Since this motor was a drive by cable that was easy to connect to the jeep pedal. other things included sanderson blockl hugger headers for tight fit, customer driver shafts but enough about that one.


I have had this 1986 K10 since 2000 when it had 50K original miles on it. it was a 4 speed 305 truck Silverado with air and cruise. when I bought it had a 350 vortec but carb motor. it sat for almost 10 years from 04 to 2013 when I dug it out of the barn ad began the swap. firs I pulled the front clip and the motor and 4 speed trans/tcase and I bought the Dirty Dingo adjustable mounts which I suggest since they have 2.5" of front to back slide adjustment. and also bough their air conditioning compressor setup to use a sanden 508 compressor and the air works great with a couple custom hoses. you can't use the factory compressor due some incompatable operation and you would have to notch the hell out of the frame to use the stock location on the side of say an LQ4 block which is what I obtained. I bought a wreck 2004 2500hd 4x4 from work for 2200$ with 9,449 miles on it is all. (and operator tipped it over in a trench)

I used the factory harness from the engine and used a guide from LT1SWAP.com on what wires to removed but if you use this don't take the oil pressure sensor wires out (IDK why they have you do that but I could have picked up the oil pressure with my Dakota digital dash off the data port and instead had to run a wire and a sensor to the back of the block. the best way I found to mod the harness is to leave it on the engine anchored with all the clips and start at the ecm plugs and unpin all the wires form the guide on LT1Swap.com and then start pulled them out back to their plugs and try to keep all the wires in their clips this will make it much easier to table things back up and make it look neat and original. the guide also tells you all the Pink, Orange, and black wires to separate and connect together for grounds, keyed power (pink) and constant power (orange) and how to connect them to a fuse block. also the best way I figured out to ignite and shut down all the relays and the ecm was with the battery wire that used to goto the distributer. (worked great)

anyway so here is a start ask any questions you want or for any pictures you want and I will take them and post them. have done a 4WD (mine and a 2Wd (a friends) which he did a lot of it himself. also if you are doing a 4WD there is two pass side drop front drive shaft factory t cases that can be found that already have the VSS in them that will work perfect for the VSS form any GM ecm that requires 40 pulse per rev signal. Hope this will help. these were very fun and rewarding swaps:thumb:
 

catman3126

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Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
I did have to move the trans cross member an inch on my 4WD and I believe it was about 3" back on the 2wd. the 04 radiator hose fit perfect without trimming on the 86 radiator top and bottom and used the 86 shroud with the 04 fan. power steering was easy also the 04 hoses screwed right into the 86 box as well as the 79 C10 box (yeah no shit) I had to notch the frame on the pass side where the 3 bolt flange on the manifold went past the frame but almost nothing. there is a fitting to connect the vacuum boost to the intake and you can get the fitting from summit racing. I ran a Derale trans cooler out in front of the radiator only for my 4 speed truck and my friend used the factory one in the radiator for his auto truck (works fine either way) some say you have to grind the cross member under the oil pan fro clearance on the drivers side but mine cleared.

The fuel system I used was a Walbro pump with Russell fittings and I made mine so it sucked from ahead of my dual tank selector so I can still use both tanks. the 79 was a single tank. and use the corvette filter/regulator and sets the fuel pressure at 62 psi. Russell makes adapters that go from push lock to JIC and fittings to use stainless braided hose cut to length and fittings with female JIC to make the hoses the length you want. easy (when you cut stainless braided wrap tape around them to keep them from fraying and makes it easier to get the coller screwed down over it)
 
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catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
I gotta get some time to clean it up a little and post some. the motor is all dusty from sitting most of the summer. anothing thing I just addressed and josh will want to do something about is the power steering. the pressure and volumn is so much higher in these newer pumps that there is zero feedback from the road and it actually sucks to drive. Dirty dingo sells a shim kit and you can also take the valve out of the 80's pump and install it but that just makes a minor change and for my liking its not enough. it is so easy to steer one finger can spin the wheel on pavement when not moving and the 2wd C10 is even worse maybe due to the quicker ratio of the gear box or something. I'm going to do the added shims and see if I can drop the pressure some more to make it nice to drive. you may think you want that easy steering till you drive it lol then you'll change your mind.
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
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Lawrenceburg, KY
Have you driven a newer F150? They have very light steering. If you've been in one, how does the converted truck compare to the F150? Personally, I love the way the F150 steering feels.
 

catman3126

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Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
I bet it is easier in my K10 damn near feeling like when you have the front jacked up and turn the wheel. personal preference but I really like the amount of resistance in my 15 LML. I would like to get my k10 setup similar. Pics coming now.
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
0
36
NE Oregon
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clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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Brenden with the lt1swap website is In my home town. He is pretty smart with it.


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catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
0
36
NE Oregon
yeah he helped some through email when I was hooking up the cruise. I had it hooked up right but it turned out the column switch was bad. what's odd is on the C10 that didn't have cruise so my friend had to use relays due to the switch he got from Dakota digital operation being opposite then the factory switch operation. he got his to work this way and I finally had to go into my platform table and change the box for cruise from No to yes. and the C10 to this day still has it checked as "no" but still works. and he has the exact same tunes as I do in his c10 but the cruise is not enabled but works and mine wouldn't. if you have a truck with factory cruise its pretty easy to make it work with a DBW motor but if you have to use the Dakota digital column switch its a PITA cause you have to make the switch operate relays to do the opposite of what the switch is doing to tell the ecm the correct signal.
 

clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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83
This is awesome. I'm gathering parts now for my ls swap into my g-body cutlass


I've got an ls swap into an elcamino I'm working on. I've had it a year though finding time is hard


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catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
The plan was to put an S480 on this one but after just doing a built motor in my LLY and its like "why do you keep doing these projects lol"
 

Robby05

New member
Jul 25, 2014
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Spokane, WA
your not that far from me. What year of Cutlass? I was watching gas monkeys last night and they bought a green cutlass. are you going to turbo it?

Of course. Everything's better with a turbo. Cutlass is a 1978. Have an engine already. Gotta make up my mind on what trans to run. I'm leaning towards a T56.

This is my second build with the car. First time was half assed & more of a straight line setup. This time I want a better driving car. Decking the front end out with SC&C parts and gonna make it handle
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
Man if you even plan on drag racing that thing with a turbo fit a 2WD 4L80E in there. T56 is fin to drive but hat bitch would be nasty with an auto with the right convertor and a turbo. just sayin lol.
 

Robby05

New member
Jul 25, 2014
498
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Spokane, WA
Man if you even plan on drag racing that thing with a turbo fit a 2WD 4L80E in there. T56 is fin to drive but hat bitch would be nasty with an auto with the right convertor and a turbo. just sayin lol.

That's a good point. I'm still on the fence about the trans. I have plenty of time. Gotta swap the rear end & redo all the suspension. Starting on my c5 front brake upgrade whenever my suspension kit from SC&C.