Anyone have a stock cam out of a L96 truck engine? I just tore one up to find a bad lifter wiped a lobe off.
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ISO Cam - L96 6.0L
- Thread starter ikeG
- Start date
Truck for the sales lot.
Lq4 cam specs are different, aren't they? I see a few non afm trucks with the lifter rollers bad and carfed a lobe off.
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Im sure they are, cathedral port vs square port heads, the square port stuff usually has more ex lift/duration.
From what I have found there were 2 issues with the lifters, first was a non caged roller and the 2nd is worn out lifter cages. The worn cage would let the roller turn sideways.
From what I have found there were 2 issues with the lifters, first was a non caged roller and the 2nd is worn out lifter cages. The worn cage would let the roller turn sideways.
Got some good news!
According to SDPC 12626660 Is the OEM part number for the cam for that engine application. And its less than $100 from SDPC.
Putting link to their site for information purposes as it has specs and application information . Not trying to step on anyone's toes. Some sponsors might be able to help since its a GM part or you may have your own local connection.
https://sdparts.com/i-24139124-genuine-gm-parts-12626660-lc8-l96-6-0l-ls-camshaft.html
According to SDPC 12626660 Is the OEM part number for the cam for that engine application. And its less than $100 from SDPC.
Putting link to their site for information purposes as it has specs and application information . Not trying to step on anyone's toes. Some sponsors might be able to help since its a GM part or you may have your own local connection.
https://sdparts.com/i-24139124-genuine-gm-parts-12626660-lc8-l96-6-0l-ls-camshaft.html
Thanks. I've had one ordered from dealer since monday but I'm looking to keep one on stock if someone has a good used one. The last one I did was a couple day wait, so I'm assuming the covid will make it longer this time from GM.
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They constantly eat cams, I'd call around to the speed shops local to you and see what they have.
Anything coming from the GM warehouse’s in Michigan will take some time. For us out here it’ll take 3-4 weeks. But, seeing as you’re closer maybe that’ll help. Or they have a closer warehouse that stocks it. It’s not been fun during this lock down.
Next question: which iron blocks will work for the L96? Or are all 6.0 the same?
I have left the cam in until had the new one, trying to leave the driver side head on. It will not come out, cam bearing 3 is spun and permanent to the cam now.
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I have left the cam in until had the new one, trying to leave the driver side head on. It will not come out, cam bearing 3 is spun and permanent to the cam now.
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Main difference is the location of the knock sensors between gen3 and 4. I’m sure there is more but I believe you can make any 6.0 block work it’s just how factory you want/need it to be.
It may not have hurt the block. My 6.0 had the same thing happen lost the center cam bearing, engine lost oil psi. I bought it as a core expecting to find an oil pump pick up issue or bad crank bearings. My heart sank when all that looked good and the cam wouldn’t come out. Luckily the bearing fried but didn’t hurt the block at all. I could still read the gm numbers on the outside of that bearing after I cut it of the cam from the oil pan side.
It may not have hurt the block. My 6.0 had the same thing happen lost the center cam bearing, engine lost oil psi. I bought it as a core expecting to find an oil pump pick up issue or bad crank bearings. My heart sank when all that looked good and the cam wouldn’t come out. Luckily the bearing fried but didn’t hurt the block at all. I could still read the gm numbers on the outside of that bearing after I cut it of the cam from the oil pan side.
A Gen 4 block with the DOD towers is a direct swap.
The Gen 3 blocks have to be modified for the knock sensors to read off the side of the block. It can be done but its a pain. You need a 58x crank wheel and the correct cam gear for your application. The sensors also need to be correct for the application. You also have to plug the rear cam sensor hole on a gen 3 block. You can leave an old sensor in it or buy an ITC billet block off piece for it.
If it were me I would yank it out and replace the cam bearings.
From the bottom side of the block, you can cut the fried bearing from the cam.
There only like $25 for a replacement set from Durabond if you can do it yourself.
I think the machine shop I use charges like $65 for labor to replace them. I have to bring the block down bare and the new bearings down to them.
I can do it myself but if it spun a cam bearing I need them to check the bore size and make sure it's within spec to put a bearing in.
I have only had 1 Core motor that looked so bad when I opened it up, I made the seller take it back as I didn't want to deal with it. Everything else up to this point has been a success replacing the crappy GM cam bearings with Durabond.
I'm trading short blocks with a local guy. His 118k Ly6 for my 216k L96. His has no cam, so it works out great since I have the new one.
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This one, no. Just a #4 misfire. No noises or oil pressure major loss.
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Got the cam out. This is the 2nd one I've seen do this. Neither had the lifter roller seized but the surface of the roller looks like this.
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