Insulate intake?

[S 854]

Couldn't find anything with the search bar... so...

I have installed some foam strip to the top/sides of my stock airbox (to keep the intake charge from sucking in the radiator fan wash) and opened the front of the airbox a bit...

I'm wondering if'n I was to insulate the tube from the airbox to my LBZ mouth piece if it would keep the IAT/MAF sensor from falsely reading 'high' (again... from the fan wash)

Not quite sure what I'd use that would withstand the rigors of under hood heat and wind... any suggestions?

 

[c20elephant]

Some good information and ideas in the archives on Dieselplace, below is a link to them dating back to 2004 and is about 1000 post. You'll see some familiar names here on DD in both these threads.

I used a couple items in there on my LBZ to keep the ECT from riding on the 210-220 degree mark on the freeway. Now it sits at 185-195 degrees with a few of my own changes (checked with my EFI V2) on the last day we had OAT of 115 degrees and the AC works 100 times better...



http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...on-2004-5-2005-lly/14625-over-heating-26.html

Continued here for another 900+ post.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...n-2004-5-2005-lly/125321-over-heating-23.html

 

[jollyrogr]

I'm considering doing something like this too. When slowing down or worse yet at a stop, the heat soak under the hood is incredible. The IAT climbs like crazy. I'd like to add some kind of duct or tubing to draw cooler intake air out of the fender or bumper and I think adding some kind of insulation to protect the MAF sensor might be beneficial. I'm not sure if it's worth it to insulate the whole thing since the air will be heated up by the turbo and then cooled by the intercooler anyway.

 

[Dozerboy]

I know some guys claimed to have pretty good gains by wrapping the hole intake and MP. I think they used some bubble warp looking insulation with a reflective foil on it. Doubt it would last more then a couple years before it fell apart.

I personally think it's a little over kill. Do a ppe mod to the lbz airbox open up the hole in the fender a little.

I mean what are you looking for better mileage and more power? Get a tuner

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[S 854]

I mean what are you looking for better mileage and more power?

Just looking to use the power I (should) have available...

I have a CAI which works relatively well... Until the fan kicks on and washes the MAF with hot air... The computer then (mistakenly) reads the hot air coming into the intake and throttles power back in self defense... (at least that's what I've read and that's what I feel)...

If the incoming charge is indeed hot then I have no problem with the power loss... But if there's something I can do to keep the false readings from affecting things... I'm willing to try...

 

[jollyrogr]

I know some guys claimed to have pretty good gains by wrapping the hole intake and MP. I think they used some bubble warp looking insulation with a reflective foil on it. Doubt it would last more then a couple years before it fell apart.

I personally think it's a little over kill. Do a ppe mod to the lbz airbox open up the hole in the fender a little.

I mean what are you looking for better mileage and more power? Get a tuner

I've read that the PPE airbox mod doesn't really do anything - and for me especially since I have an LLY airbox still. I've installed an LBZ mouthpiece, so I've thought about getting an LBZ airbox but I'm not totally convinced it's worth it.

As far as a tuner, I've got EFI Live, so there isn't anything in the ECM that's out of reach.

A tuner can only do so much - if the IAT is high, it will hurt performance. Especially on an LLY with an undersized cooling system.

 

[S 854]

I'm considering something like these guys sell:
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/...t-control-products-for-underhood-applications
I'm leaning towards the "sticky back roll"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=heat+shield

 

[jollyrogr]

I'm considering something like these guys sell:
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/...t-control-products-for-underhood-applications
I'm leaning towards the "sticky back roll"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=heat+shield

Dude! I was going to post virtually the same product. This is the one I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-340020-Thermaflect-Shield/dp/B000QFN3DU/

Not sure if the 1.5" or 2" wide product would be better.

 

[wh20crazy]

Sub'd

 

[Dozerboy]

I didn't realize you had a lly intake. Ya I wouldn't replace it with lbz unless I got it for a good deal. Ppe mod makes a differance. Before I did mine I was suckling the filter minder all the way down 50%. With the same filter after the mod it was only going down to 30% IIRC.

What test have you done to back this up? I have a hard time seeing that the maf it's self getting heat soak and causing the issue. Maybe I miss read what your saying. Easy enough to test. I just wonder what kind of gains you will get since once your moving or back on the throttle you should be moving enough air to cool things back down.




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[S 854]

I didn't even think to reset the filter minder... Mine was missing when I bought the truck and I wasn't even aware I should have one until I started looking closely at pics on the web... Ran with an open hole for a couple months... Bummer...

I don't have any first hand data experience with the MAF heat soak or the computer throttling back power... But the seat of my pants says there's something going on shortly after the fan comes on...

I have a ScanGauge II on order and I'm planning on doing a couple rudimentary experiments once I get it installed...

First I'm gonna "disassemble" my CAI and tape over the hole in the front of the air box... Then drive around for a couple days to hopefully get a baseline...

Second I'll "reassemble" the CAI and remove the tape...

Third I'll find an inexpensive insulator for the MAF sensor to (hopefully) keep the fan wash at bay...

I'm not looking for much more than the intake air temperature readings... At least for now....

We'll be heading out pulling our FW towards the end of July... If I can find the time I may repeat at least a couple of the above tests under more strenuous circumstances...

 

[jollyrogr]

I didn't realize you had a lly intake. Ya I wouldn't replace it with lbz unless I got it for a good deal. Ppe mod makes a differance. Before I did mine I was suckling the filter minder all the way down 50%. With the same filter after the mod it was only going down to 30% IIRC.

What test have you done to back this up? I have a hard time seeing that the maf it's self getting heat soak and causing the issue. Maybe I miss read what your saying. Easy enough to test. I just wonder what kind of gains you will get since once your moving or back on the throttle you should be moving enough air to cool things back down.

I use EFI Live to data log, and when I stop, you can watch the IAT skyrocket due to the heat under the hood. You don't even need to be towing to see this. When you get moving again the IAT comes down but will still be higher than ambient. The goal would be to get the IAT as close to ambient as possible. (Unless it's -30 and you want the truck to warm up :thumb

 

[WVRigrat05]

Drive faster, it will cool down. My IAT is the same as outside when I'm going 100.

 

[Dozerboy]

S854
You do know the engine takes a ton of power to spin the fan. 30hp+ from what I recall. I know when my truck was closer to stock it felt like a dog when the fan came on.

IIRC the lbz don't start cutting power until IAT is 120*+. I know my trucks IAT never got hot enough to reduce power in 100* weather while beating on my truck. As long as I was moving.




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[S 854]

IIRC the lbz don't start cutting power until IAT is 120*+. I know my trucks IAT never got hot enough to reduce power in 100* weather while beating on my truck. As long as I was moving.

I looked for 2 maybe 2 1/2 years before I bought my truck... Wanted the Holy Grail-- an LBZ with less than 100k miles... Here in Denver the owners of such trucks are REALLY PROUD of them when it comes time to sell...

So I set my sights a bit lower figuring I could doll up the LLY enough to where it would suffice...

So... I'm aiming to get the iat on my somewhat modified, stock intake to where it doesn't rise above that 120 degree mark...

I really have no idea where it's at now... Or what all it will take to get my LLY to its happy place... Hopefully I'm heading in the right direction...

 

[WVRigrat05]

Get a full S&B intake and a cowl hood. I just cut the back side out on my Chevy hood and it helped a fair bit. I'd imagine an actual cowl hood would work great.

Stock to stock, that LLY is gonna be harder to keep cool compared to an LBZ/LMM.

I had holes cut and opened up where I could and it still wanted to get hot when you beat on it.

 

[S 854]

I have yet to get the engine gauge over 210... Course I haven't had the opportunity to pull any long, steep hills...

I've done my best to heat it up where I could... Accelerating up some half mile long hills on 90 degree days... No real test yet...

All while pulling our roughly 11,000 lb FW

 

[WVRigrat05]

I have yet to get the engine gauge over 210... Course I haven't had the opportunity to pull any long, steep hills...

I've done my best to heat it up where I could... Accelerating up some half mile long hills on 90 degree days... No real test yet...

All while pulling our roughly 11,000 lb FW

Wasn't doing it right.

I pulled an 8% grade wot, 30 horse tune, pulling 4K, truck had 41k miles on it, popped both hg's right then.

Fast forward new motor and clean everything, still could make it run 230 pulling hills.

You flat landers have it made towing, shit, my trans gets hot just driving home. (Lots of curves and steep grades)

If that's all the hotter you can get it, I wouldn't piss with any of it and just drive it, how long is it really seeing that 180 IAT? 30 sec tops?

 

[S 854]

I did say "yet"...

Just got the FW in December... Unfortunately it spent six weeks this past spring at the dealer for some warranty work... This summer there are several 10,000' Rocky Mountain passes we're gonna be going over...

I'm trying to be proactive... That way I won't pop both hg's...:cool2:

 

[WVRigrat05]

Full intake with your mouthpiece. Banks makes a super scoop that sucks air from the ground, but it will suck up water too if holes aren't drilled in it.

S&B seems to be the best set up for these trucks IMO. And get a set of gauges, I don't run them, but they are a good indicator when it's time to let out of it before you see all the other temps maxing out.