Ive already got the headers lined out, a big block header with d port tubes. the bore spacing is close enough to be able to tweek the header tubes and weld them to a set of dmax 3/8" steel exhaust flanges.
I know, I know just another Duramax swapped nova
- Thread starter 3_8scbug
- Start date
Talk with the guys at Empire. My understanding they don't do supers anymore. Sounds like they where a lot of trouble even when the engine was built for running g a super. With all the crank breaking going on I'm not sure a super strapped to it or more tq down low is a good idea.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
when I bring in torque can be adjusted for lively hood of the engine. correct me if im wrong but don't the highest percentage of broken cranks happen due to an unkeyed crank.
Not really anything to do with keyways. And adding a pulley on the crank way out front will not help at all.
And adding a pulley on the crank way out front will not help at all.[/QUOTE]
I just found that out. will not be running an extra pulley. going with a custom length belt. everything should be fine to run the 4.0 liter whipple to 15 psi. will be doing an alt order cam.
I just found that out. will not be running an extra pulley. going with a custom length belt. everything should be fine to run the 4.0 liter whipple to 15 psi. will be doing an alt order cam.
I dont know your budget but the power is already there with the perfect trans for your application to boot. I would be spending money on geting the rear end reliable and stiffening the chassis to hold the power. Suspension setup and safely getting the power to the ground is where my priority would be.
there isn't a budget set for this car, its more of a build till its done. the only reason im talking about the engine is the fact that I don't have it figured out. everything else you mentioned has already been figured out. I will be going with a half frame which welds to the subframe up front then has a row of 6 bolts, 1/2" that bolt through the rear integrated stamped frame into the floor of the car under the rear seat. really ties together the entire car.
Your build with a bone stock motor and EFILIVE tuning will be a blast to drive. Stock turbo will spool instantly and blow your tires off at any speed. 3800lbs and a stock tuned motor will run 10.9 all day long foot braking it. Keep it simple and have lots of fun with it. You can always upgrade or change it up down the road.
Hell a built 400 and 2.5 gears would be the best budget minded build and would work great for the street. Would not miss a beat and still be a blast to drive. I ran that combo for over 20k miles and would do it again in a heart beat.
Hell a built 400 and 2.5 gears would be the best budget minded build and would work great for the street. Would not miss a beat and still be a blast to drive. I ran that combo for over 20k miles and would do it again in a heart beat.
Ballpark... What'd you have into your car with the duramax swap. Engine trans & chassis?
Tight, to tight. If the motor ever comes out I will build a round tubular crossmember to give me more room. It fits but the pan is modified a lot. Both sections need it.
Well I bought the motor in 07, it's an 04 LB7 and it only had 50k miles on it. So at the time it was pricey. Today you can get an lb7 for way cheaper but it's gonna have miles on it. Started driving the car in 09 and the Tranny and rear end have evolved many times over in the last 7 yrs.
I paid 5k for the motor. Have prob the same in the tranny/gv and then another 5k in the rear end. Then tons of labor and fab work. Luckily I was able to do 90% of all that. Which saved a ton of money.