I got Ripped Off! I need your Help!
- Thread starter Goad
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Based on this....the last of the 8 of the VIN they gave me (2F137009) only tells me the year, plant, and production number
so I assume only having the last 8 is useless.
so I assume only having the last 8 is useless.
Search the new york company's website for an Allison trans for an 02. Maybe you can find a listing with pics of the truck
I tried that... but with searching for an intercooler. I will try some other various parts
So a member here was able to reverse lookup the last 8 of the vin and provided me with the full vin. I had a buddy at a dealer do a carfax lookup on it and last mileage reported was in 2016 at 70,602 miles. Car was totaled in 2019. I found it on an auction site with no mileage reported and it states it was sold in October of 2019 in North Carolina.
Truck body looks too nice to have a rotted out engine like that, but at this point, you never know.
I'm not much help to Goad, I searched the two engine's I have for Vin location and can't find any markings on them either. Shitty deal for sure, had a similar thing happen many years ago from an eBay tranny for my 1500 Sierra(paid for a rebuilt tranny that only lasted a year).
I am upstate as well, and could use some spare parts :hug:
They now refuse to reply to my emails or voicemails. I will give them until the end of the day tomorrow to resolve this. If I still don't get a response, I will dispute the charge and seek legal help to file a lawsuit to get my money back in full.
I filed a complaint with the BBB this morning. It seems this company responds to all of the complaints filed against them on the BBB, so maybe that will get their attention.
I filed a complaint with the BBB this morning. It seems this company responds to all of the complaints filed against them on the BBB, so maybe that will get their attention.
Also I performed a compression test...I got the following numbers
#1 Broken Glow Plug
#2 180PSI
#3 180PSI
#4 Broken Glow Plug
#5 200 PSI
#6 200 PSI
#7 200 PSI
#8 Broken Glow Plug
Are these numbers to be expected on a 80k mile LB7?
#1 Broken Glow Plug
#2 180PSI
#3 180PSI
#4 Broken Glow Plug
#5 200 PSI
#6 200 PSI
#7 200 PSI
#8 Broken Glow Plug
Are these numbers to be expected on a 80k mile LB7?
I think you should of be closer to 300psi. I've always pulled all the glow plugs then spun the motor over 4 or 5 times. What was wrong with you motor? You gonna need to pull the heads to fix the glow plugs
An engine sitting that long may not have any oil coating the cylinders or rings thus causing low compression. May need to change the oil, then prime the oil pump and spin it over a bunch. Maybe just squirt a little oil into the glow plug holes and test again. Also, what rpm was it turning over at?
You get what you pay for. And calling Tom a Dick because You Certanly DID ask for help was a dick move. Just sayin. Hope it all works out for you and next time you dont go easter bunny hunting. I get low mile dmax engines for 2500 round here.
X2.
Pour some ATF into all the holes you can, turn it over by hand a few times, and let it sit overnight. Wheel it over and Make sure it’s windmilling around the 180 rpm area. Try to guess by ear with another dmax cranking if you don’t have access to a phototach or something.
Then try it again once you have as much of the oil chuffed out of the holes as possible.
My guess is you may still be disappointed.
This has been resolved and squashed and apologized over.....but since you bring it back up.... Let me explain where I was coming from...
I asked for help. Tom said it wasn't anyone's responsibility to help. I never insinuated that anyone HAD to help. Isn't this what forums are for? Asking for help? It was a bit harsh and he even acknowledged it was. As I stated before in another post that this has been resolved and I have apologized, let it go.
And your comment about getting what I pay for....I paid a lot more than $2500 as you claim what you can get them for. So are you insinuating that I deserved to be ripped off because I called Tom a dick? ....so who is the dick now?
Again, this thread has moved past that comment....or are you here just to stir the pot?
Moving on....
To the comments of it sitting for a long time... I stand to disagree. Even the FL company balked at this saying a cold compression test warrants the readings are inaccurate.
According to both the NY and the FL companies, the motor was run tested before it was pulled from the truck and shipped. So it was ran as little as 3 weeks ago. So it hasnt been sitting that long.
Also, I do not think, neither does my mechanic that a cold cranking compression test would show 100-120 PIS difference. Thats a whole hell of a lot. Maybe 20-30 lbs.
To the comments of it sitting for a long time... I stand to disagree. Even the FL company balked at this saying a cold compression test warrants the readings are inaccurate.
According to both the NY and the FL companies, the motor was run tested before it was pulled from the truck and shipped. So it was ran as little as 3 weeks ago. So it hasnt been sitting that long.
Also, I do not think, neither does my mechanic that a cold cranking compression test would show 100-120 PIS difference. Thats a whole hell of a lot. Maybe 20-30 lbs.
I doubt the engine would even start at that low of compression.
Three possibilities: they never even ran it and pulled it off the shelf, truck, dirt lot, or what have you and shipped it out. Or they did run it and it was hard to start, ran rough, needed either to fire off, blew smoke, etc and they sold it to you anyways. Last, you did something wrong with the test, maybe a weak battery and turning over too slowly, compression tester not fitting properly and leaking, not turning it over long enough, etc.
With compression numbers that low, it's hard to see how they can't take it back on their dime if you're positive in your results. Even cold I would expect higher if the engine was "recently" ran
Three possibilities: they never even ran it and pulled it off the shelf, truck, dirt lot, or what have you and shipped it out. Or they did run it and it was hard to start, ran rough, needed either to fire off, blew smoke, etc and they sold it to you anyways. Last, you did something wrong with the test, maybe a weak battery and turning over too slowly, compression tester not fitting properly and leaking, not turning it over long enough, etc.
With compression numbers that low, it's hard to see how they can't take it back on their dime if you're positive in your results. Even cold I would expect higher if the engine was "recently" ran
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I can tell you from personal experience that once compression drops into the mid 200s, you start getting a lot of haze and cold starting issues. Below 200, I would be surprised if it would start even with ether.
Anyone else annoyed by this post.... dude buys junk yard engine without seeing it in person, than join’s DD forum and wants help and acts like Jerk and that we owe him something..
Maybe should have joined forum first and asked for advice....
Just my :2cents:
Maybe should have joined forum first and asked for advice....Just my :2cents:
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