Hydraulic assist steering

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

I've been thinking about hydrostatic steering for my dedicated puller. I have a pretty good idea how to go about doing a full hydro setup. But kinda thinking I won't like the "quick never centered wheel". Also if I break and need pushed/pulled off the track it won't steer without the engine running. Unless I get an electric pump (which I don't know where to find a good flowing pump for a decent dollar. Or really how to control output for an electric to be honest. So if I keep it just hydro assist I think I may still have enough steering power to turn with locked welded front end??

Question is, how would I rig it up. How would I time it with the steering box? I have no I idea on that part and afraid I'd end up with a cylinder ext/ret faster or slowing then the steering box. And my luck put it in a bind and break steering parts. I don't know if that's clue, but does anyone have an idea haha

 

[duramaxzak]

I would give these guys a call!
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/hydrosteering.html

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

That's alot of money lol I figure I could do it with my own parts for around 500

 

[duramaxzak]

That's alot of money lol I figure I could do it with my own parts for around 500

Or spend $750 and get an Elocker! :thumb:

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Or spend $750 and get an Elocker! :thumb:

Well then ill have to buy solid shaft. I think just an h2 shaft is like 600. Think hydro/solid axle will be stronger when done right and less work to step up later when I go 2.6 haha

 

[duramaxzak]

Well then ill have to buy solid shaft. I think just an h2 shaft is like 600. Think hydro/solid axle will be stronger when done right and less work to step up later when I go 2.6 haha

Won't you have to buy the solid shaft with the hydro assist anyways?

Welded carriers are not bullet proof!

 

[clrussell]

Mad maxx there's a way on older trucks to drill and tap the steering box for hydro assist, we do it in the offroad world a lot. I'm nut sure where to drill a newer truck box but I'm sure there is info out there. Then it's just a matter of mounting the ram and running lines..

If it was me doing it I would mount it in the steering stabilizer location (with beefed up mounts of course).

You might search around on pirate 4x4 for hydro assist options. A lot of knowledge over there. Also a lot of bs though.

If it's a dedicated puller and your thinking full hydro there's company's that make a electric/ hydraulic pumps that a lot of the gas pulling guys use around here. They also run 3 deep cycle batteries so that they can not run an alternator.

Just a simple switch to turn the pump on and off for steering.

 

[Yellow Jacket]

I bought a 12v snowplow pump and use a double ended hydraulic cylinder from surplus center... At the pressure and diameter we use it creates over 5800 lbs of force at the steering knuckle on our Dana 60, we run 36 spline drive pucks and a limited slip front so we can still steer, when the spider gears started to fail in our old limited slip (Spicer Power Lock) we still couldn't steer the truck very easily.... That's usually why guys run the ARB locker, manual pull cable locker, or one lockout hub. Even with hydraulic steering it becomes pretty hard to steer with a Driveline bind...

 

[bubba2400]

A lift gate pump/motor setup will work also. Can find those used. I used a pump that was only a little over 1gpm with a 2" cylinder. Also used the orbital valve from a combine to control it. Think I had about $75 in my whole setup. But also had a bunch of time getting all the parts collected.

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

I bought a 12v snowplow pump and use a double ended hydraulic cylinder from surplus center... At the pressure and diameter we use it creates over 5800 lbs of force at the steering knuckle on our Dana 60, we run 36 spline drive pucks and a limited slip front so we can still steer, when the spider gears started to fail in our old limited slip (Spicer Power Lock) we still couldn't steer the truck very easily.... That's usually why guys run the ARB locker, manual pull cable locker, or one lockout hub. Even with hydraulic steering it becomes pretty hard to steer with a Driveline bind...

Thought about a manual lock hub. But I don't think anyone makes them for our trucks. Will it really be that hard to steer still without some type of hub/ axle disconnect? I kinda had in my mind that going to hydrostatic it would be easy to steer pretty much no matter how much bind it was in??

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Mad maxx there's a way on older trucks to drill and tap the steering box for hydro assist, we do it in the offroad world a lot. I'm nut sure where to drill a newer truck box but I'm sure there is info out there. Then it's just a matter of mounting the ram and running lines..

If it was me doing it I would mount it in the steering stabilizer location (with beefed up mounts of course).

You might search around on pirate 4x4 for hydro assist options. A lot of knowledge over there. Also a lot of bs though.

If it's a dedicated puller and your thinking full hydro there's company's that make a electric/ hydraulic pumps that a lot of the gas pulling guys use around here. They also run 3 deep cycle batteries so that they can not run an alternator.

Just a simple switch to turn the pump on and off for steering.

I've seen where ppl just drill out the fittings on ps pumps to bump up pressure. If I do that would I just get rid of the gear and run the lines into a cylinder? Wouldnt that be pretty much full hydro then, and still no way to turn when shut off? Yes I plan on using the stabilizer on the centerlink for location.

 

[onebaddmaxxx]

Here they won't even let you luck hubs once you're lines up to the sled.

 

[clrussell]

I've seen where ppl just drill out the fittings on ps pumps to bump up pressure. If I do that would I just get rid of the gear and run the lines into a cylinder? Wouldnt that be pretty much full hydro then, and still no way to turn when shut off? Yes I plan on using the stabilizer on the centerlink for location.

You still have to run the steering as factory, the ram just acts as an assist..

 

[Chevy1925]

I would give these guys a call!
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/hydrosteering.html

this would be the route i go. just FYI, you dont have to buy a new box, they can turn your box into hydro assist for a cheaper than buying a new one IF your box is in good shape. Your next issue is going to be fluid volume out of the stock power steering pump.

if you do an obital and ram, you wont be able to time the stock box to the obital unless you do alot of trial and error looking for an orbital that will work.

the snow plow idea is a good one but you have limited space where the center link is. not sure how it would fit in there.

Hydro assist using the stock steering box is your best option IMHO

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

So when you do hydro assist with the stock box... Does it not use a cylinder? Forgive for my ignorance on stock steering. I know how to make a cylinder work though. Is the stock steering box kinda like a hydraulic motor??

 

[duramaxzak]

So when you do hydro assist with the stock box... Does it not use a cylinder? Forgive for my ignorance on stock steering. I know how to make a cylinder work though. Is the stock steering box kinda like a hydraulic motor??

Yes, they modify the stock box to hook hydralic lines into that would run to a cylinder.

Something like this.

View attachment 35288

 

[Chevy1925]

So when you do hydro assist with the stock box... Does it not use a cylinder? Forgive for my ignorance on stock steering. I know how to make a cylinder work though. Is the stock steering box kinda like a hydraulic motor??

you use a cylinder but generally a single ended ram and one that is not as big as a full hydraulic steering. there will be two ports on the steering box added in that the two lines from the cylinder will connect to. You stock pump then drives pressure to your brakes, steering box and now the addition of the steering ram. this is where you can be taxing the stock pump. the steering box is the control to make the ram work in the direction you want the ram to move, like what an orbital would do accept now you can keep the ram in time with your steering system when you size the right ram up

 

[Leadfoot]

I believe Fingers (Jon) said he was running hydro assist. He might be able to give you some pointers. If I remember correctly he placed a ram in the stock steering dampener location. Not sure if he had to beef anything up or not. He might be a good source of information. I stopped looking into it when I retired from pulling.....LOL

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Yes I will use a single end cylinder in the damper. Prolly beef it up. So if I keep the steering box, will my cylinder stop when that stops? Cause I don't like the idea of having a stop for the rod, rather just dead head it to keep it strong

 

[05_LLY]

WE use a 12v snow plow pump from grainger, you will have to get a new feed line from the pump to the brake booster made, then just bring each return back to the pump! pretty easy....makes a world of difference in steering especially with all the weight on the front! takes the belt drivin pump compleatly outta the picture and still retains all the oem steering parts!