HP Gains Advise?????

RickDLance

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Feb 14, 2007
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The headers and up pipes will help spool up a bunch. ;) They help all the way across the board.

Any mod you can do to increase air in / air out with out increasing IAT is a good thing. be careful not to go to big on a CAC if you do one.
 

S Phinney

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Aug 15, 2008
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I've heard clipping the exhaust and going down to a 62mm billet wheel on these supermaxes is awesome. Sounds kinda counter productive, but i guess they balance out better and are unreal in a 362/483 compound setup. The 62/clipped would only run me about $500, but i think I would have to end up twinning it, and the compound classes are to damn hard to compete in.

Do you run a cast or standard wheel now? You could upgrade to a 66 wheel too. I have a cast wheel and cover for one too.

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jacobdewey

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I could pry go up to a 66 billet, and not have to much trouble gettting it balanced back out. Billet and clipped are def on my list of possibilities.:thumb:
 

S Phinney

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Aug 15, 2008
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I could pry go up to a 66 billet, and not have to much trouble gettting it balanced back out. Billet and clipped are def on my list of possibilities.:thumb:

The shaft and turbine are balanced and the compressor are balanced. The change can occur without needing to balanced again.



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jacobdewey

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You don't think 665hp is enough for a stock LB7?


I was thinking the same. IMO he is boarder line building the motor soon.

Yes and no. :) I know I'm pushing the limits of the stock motor, but that is why I need to be creative about my upgrades. Reducing drive pressure and increasing airflow, without adding more air, if that makes any sense. I just need everything to be working more efficiently.

Yeah, I have def weighed the options of a big brother, and a billet s483 has my name on it....as soon as I build my motor. I know I can make 700+hp with a compound setup, but the compound classes are just to competitive, and for right now i want to be competitive with my stock motor.

The reason for this whole thread is to get the most out of my current setup.

Right now, I'm convinced I will be doing Headers/uppipes, and electric fans. Don't know that i'm sold on the CAC. I'm already making the horsepower that those items will free up, so I will not have any more stress on my motor, but I will be putting more hp to the ground.
 

jacobdewey

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The shaft and turbine are balanced and the compressor are balanced. The change can occur without needing to balanced again.



Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

:thumb: Thanks, I'm not to savvy on turbo's, and that's why I love this site, I learn something everyday.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Right now, I'm convinced I will be doing Headers/uppipes, and electric fans.

this for sure. she hold good rail and such on the big tune?

other than that, you gotta start gettin into the heads. Have you checked for boost leaks in the system jsut out of curiousity?
 

jacobdewey

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this for sure. she hold good rail and such on the big tune?

other than that, you gotta start gettin into the heads. Have you checked for boost leaks in the system jsut out of curiousity?

Yeah, still above 22k on rail. I have one of those pumps that just work! All my clamps, hoses, tubes are in good shape. Haven't done a leak down on the CAC, but i'm not worried about it. I have my wastegate set at 38-40lbs on purpose. I'm sure the charger would make over 45 lbs with all the fuel, but boost is really just a measurement of back pressure anyway. Any more boost than 40 on my turbo is starting to get out of the efficiency range.

And I think you're right james, Head work is next, but I won't do that till I'm putting rods in the bottom.

Also, so everyone knows, my numbers are corrected for my elevation. I'm around 5000', so in reality I'm prolly just over 600 to the wheels.

Guess I'll get busy with a thread in the vendors section for some headers and up pipes. :) Maybe rick needs another "beta" tester. :p j/k
 

jacobdewey

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I was hoping you geniuses over here would have some brilliant idea that I hadn't thought of yet. I guess I didn't think about clipping the wheel and doing a billet compressor. So thanks for that guys! :thumb:
 

Chevy1925

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Yeah, still above 22k on rail. I have one of those pumps that just work! All my clamps, hoses, tubes are in good shape. Haven't done a leak down on the CAC, but i'm not worried about it. I have my wastegate set at 38-40lbs on purpose. I'm sure the charger would make over 45 lbs with all the fuel, but boost is really just a measurement of back pressure anyway. Any more boost than 40 on my turbo is starting to get out of the efficiency range.

And I think you're right james, Head work is next, but I won't do that till I'm putting rods in the bottom.

Also, so everyone knows, my numbers are corrected for my elevation. I'm around 5000', so in reality I'm prolly just over 600 to the wheels.

Guess I'll get busy with a thread in the vendors section for some headers and up pipes. :) Maybe rick needs another "beta" tester. :p j/k

the reason i ask about checking for leaks is if that CAC is leaking, it can be pushing your turbo outside its efficiency limit to hit 40psi. mine has the common split at the bottom and will only peak 48psi without making the little turbo work way more than the big turbo. if i do that, i gain my boost but EGTs are way higher and i know the stock turbo is spinnin way outside its map.

its really cheap and cant hurt to check :D
 

jacobdewey

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I have boost gauges on both the turbo itself, and the manifold. I usually see a 1-2 psi loss from the turbo to the manifold. Do you think I still need to do it? 1-2 seems on par for pressure loss.
 

Chevy1925

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I have boost gauges on both the turbo itself, and the manifold. I usually see a 1-2 psi loss from the turbo to the manifold. Do you think I still need to do it? 1-2 seems on par for pressure loss.

I dont know if you can see the PSI difference that way from a leaky intercooler. i would think so :confused:
 

Dirtymaxx03

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Aug 4, 2009
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here's a spot to check.
driver side boost tube about 6 inches before it goes into the intercooler. All 3 lb7's i have checked had big holes right there from the hard brake line rubbing through. Mine had a giant hole and i had no clue.
 

jacobdewey

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Maybe I do need to do a total leak down test. I guess you guys just eyeball and use soapy water on the tubes while its running to look for leaks?
 

Chevy1925

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i cap the intercooler pipe goin to the y-bridge and cap the turbo intake off. The turbo intake cap has a regular 1/4 automotive air connector for my compressior and i dial it down to 20psi. click the hose on and listen for leaks. its really easy to hear the leak if you have any at 20psi. others have done it at 10psi and had no issues finding leaks, my regulator just doesnt go that far down lol
 

jacobdewey

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i cap the intercooler pipe goin to the y-bridge and cap the turbo intake off. The turbo intake cap has a regular 1/4 automotive air connector for my compressior and i dial it down to 20psi. click the hose on and listen for leaks. its really easy to hear the leak if you have any at 20psi. others have done it at 10psi and had no issues finding leaks, my regulator just doesnt go that far down lol


Dang you! now i'm all worried about it. You don't happen to have any pics of the caps u use do you?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Dang you! now i'm all worried about it. You don't happen to have any pics of the caps u use do you?

lol i dont but can get some at home. its just some home depot black ABS glue on caps. they work perfect. just measure the inner diameter of the boot you wanna plug, record reading, take tape measurer with ya to home depot and measure the outer diameter of the black caps to find the ones you need and bring them home. I just drilled out the cap in the center and threaded a air chuck into it. those caps are 1/4" or more, thick.
 

jacobdewey

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Jan 14, 2011
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lol i dont but can get some at home. its just some home depot black ABS glue on caps. they work perfect. just measure the inner diameter of the boot you wanna plug, record reading, take tape measurer with ya to home depot and measure the outer diameter of the black caps to find the ones you need and bring them home. I just drilled out the cap in the center and threaded a air chuck into it. those caps are 1/4" or more, thick.

You're a brillant little man. Thanks for the help. Imunna do it this week.