How long would you run these injectors?
- Thread starter fl0w3n
- Start date
Interesting, but then how did I get down to less than a gallon in the tank one time? And the time I ran out, it took a 5 gallon jug + 21 gallon at the pump to fill up.
It sounds like what you’re describing would have it run out of fuel with around 6 gallons left?
I think it depends on the sloshing of the fuel in the tank, or maybe the angle. If the fuel doesn't stay in the bowl or the bowl doesn't stay topped off then air can get in and stall the engine. If it is level and smooth then the fuel has a better chance of making it into the pick up.
When that part fell out in mine, it seemed pretty consistent to run out with about 5 gallons left. But I can see under good conditions it could be much less
When that part fell out in mine, it seemed pretty consistent to run out with about 5 gallons left. But I can see under good conditions it could be much less
Interesting, well hopefully it’s solved now.
so new day new problem lol
I put my lift pump off my 02 in when I did the sending unit, and now today I just got a P0089 for FPR performance. Did I just have a weak FPR but it was fine on it’s own, now with the added pressure from the Air Dog it can’t regulate it?
so new day new problem lol
I put my lift pump off my 02 in when I did the sending unit, and now today I just got a P0089 for FPR performance. Did I just have a weak FPR but it was fine on it’s own, now with the added pressure from the Air Dog it can’t regulate it?
Perfect... forgot about that.
Guessed at the adjustment and seemed to have gotten it right. Prior idle desired vs actual was 30 vs 80, adjusted it and it was 30 vs 30, cranked it up one turn to be safe and it was 30 vs 30-32
also noticed while I was under the truck over the weekend the reason that my ABS light was on... box was unplugged under the driver. Went to plug it in and realized it’s not staying plugged in because the little grey clip that slides into the clip was missing. Slid a zip tie into that space and it clips and should hold now. Any chance I can find just that clip?
Now that the box is plugged in I can pull codes... C0110 Pump Motor Malfunction
I think that’s the box right in front of it with all the lines coming into/out of it? Do they just go bad or can they be serviced in some way?
Guessed at the adjustment and seemed to have gotten it right. Prior idle desired vs actual was 30 vs 80, adjusted it and it was 30 vs 30, cranked it up one turn to be safe and it was 30 vs 30-32
also noticed while I was under the truck over the weekend the reason that my ABS light was on... box was unplugged under the driver. Went to plug it in and realized it’s not staying plugged in because the little grey clip that slides into the clip was missing. Slid a zip tie into that space and it clips and should hold now. Any chance I can find just that clip?
Now that the box is plugged in I can pull codes... C0110 Pump Motor Malfunction
I think that’s the box right in front of it with all the lines coming into/out of it? Do they just go bad or can they be serviced in some way?
DTC C0110 Circuit Description
The electronic brake control module (EBCM) supplies ground to activate the Antilock Brake System (ABS) pump motor. An internal system relay in the EBCM supplies battery positive voltage to the pump motor when the ignition is turned ON. The EBCM monitors pump motor feedback voltage after activation to detect a stalled or binding pump motor.
DTC C0110 Pump Motor Circuit
1. Remove the electronic brake control module (EBCM) from the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV). Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement. 2. Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector for conditions which could cause an intermittent, such as damage, corrosion, poor terminal contact, or presence of brake fluid.
Is the connector OK and the cavity free of brake fluid? Go to Step 5 Go to Step 4
4
1. If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace the BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary. 2. If brake fluid is present, replace both the BPMV and EBCM. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Replacement and Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement.
May only need Ohm meter and test light to check the circuit:
Circuit/System Testing
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the EBCM.
Test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the ground circuits terminals E and F and ground.
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.
Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuits terminals A and B and ground.
⇒ If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the B+ circuit fuse is open, test or replace the BPMV.
Ignition OFF, remove the EBCM from the BPMV.
Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector to insure there is no damage, corrosion, or presence of brake fluid.
⇒ If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace the BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary.
⇒ If brake fluid is present, replace both the BPMV and EBCM.
If all circuits test normal, replace the BPMV.
The electronic brake control module (EBCM) supplies ground to activate the Antilock Brake System (ABS) pump motor. An internal system relay in the EBCM supplies battery positive voltage to the pump motor when the ignition is turned ON. The EBCM monitors pump motor feedback voltage after activation to detect a stalled or binding pump motor.
DTC C0110 Pump Motor Circuit
1. Remove the electronic brake control module (EBCM) from the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV). Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement. 2. Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector for conditions which could cause an intermittent, such as damage, corrosion, poor terminal contact, or presence of brake fluid.
Is the connector OK and the cavity free of brake fluid? Go to Step 5 Go to Step 4
4
1. If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace the BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary. 2. If brake fluid is present, replace both the BPMV and EBCM. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Replacement and Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement.
May only need Ohm meter and test light to check the circuit:
Circuit/System Testing
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the EBCM.
Test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the ground circuits terminals E and F and ground.
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.
Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuits terminals A and B and ground.
⇒ If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the B+ circuit fuse is open, test or replace the BPMV.
Ignition OFF, remove the EBCM from the BPMV.
Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector to insure there is no damage, corrosion, or presence of brake fluid.
⇒ If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace the BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary.
⇒ If brake fluid is present, replace both the BPMV and EBCM.
If all circuits test normal, replace the BPMV.
Thanks for posting. Haven’t gotten around to diagnosing yet. Probably get it done during this long weekend.
ive got the pressure turned all the way down and it still occasionally lopes and throws a code. I’m still a month or more away from doing injectors and tuning, should I clip a coil off the pressure spring? If I pull the spring out is it going to shoot fuel at me from the hole in the airdog block?
ive got the pressure turned all the way down and it still occasionally lopes and throws a code. I’m still a month or more away from doing injectors and tuning, should I clip a coil off the pressure spring? If I pull the spring out is it going to shoot fuel at me from the hole in the airdog block?
Also... finally got around to running another round of the GM cleaner through. Looks like these injectors are maybe more gunky than they are corroded because the cleaner made a big difference. I’ll probably run it one or two more times until it stops making a difference.
they will occasionally stick really bad, I’m assuming 5 or 8. I pulled up to a stop light today and it looked like I was in a burnout competition. But then it lessened after a few minutes and eventually later it was mostly cleaned up.
this is balance rate in drive foot on break from a few days ago
This is after running through half a gallon with 13oz as prescribed
they will occasionally stick really bad, I’m assuming 5 or 8. I pulled up to a stop light today and it looked like I was in a burnout competition. But then it lessened after a few minutes and eventually later it was mostly cleaned up.
this is balance rate in drive foot on break from a few days ago
This is after running through half a gallon with 13oz as prescribed
They’re back to hazing on and off, but more frequently on.
I wanted to rob the SAC45s from my 02 but I think I’m just going to order a new set from LDS as soon as tomorrow or Monday.
Question - while certainly easier to do it while doing injectors, am I risking anything by leaving the stock 155k mile CP3 in there? Should be fine right? Maybe do an LBZ FPR at least?
also, with my AD2 on this truck now, any reason to do a CAT filter up front or just keep running the Donaldson/Racors?
I wanted to rob the SAC45s from my 02 but I think I’m just going to order a new set from LDS as soon as tomorrow or Monday.
Question - while certainly easier to do it while doing injectors, am I risking anything by leaving the stock 155k mile CP3 in there? Should be fine right? Maybe do an LBZ FPR at least?
also, with my AD2 on this truck now, any reason to do a CAT filter up front or just keep running the Donaldson/Racors?
If your CP3 is holding good pressure I wouldn't worry yet. Also, you can do everything the LBZ regulator can do with the current one through tuning only.
I like my Racor filters. Better water filtration then CAT but not really an issue. This seems to be more of a personal preference. The lift pump will help more then a filter upgrade will
I like my Racor filters. Better water filtration then CAT but not really an issue. This seems to be more of a personal preference. The lift pump will help more then a filter upgrade will
If your FPR is starting to get sticky, might as well replace it with a LBZ one. Otherwise, I'd run the CP3 you have until it can't supply the fuel for the power you need. I've made well over 450 HP on a 300k mile CP3, so you're probably fine with your 155k mile unit.
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I’m not sure if I want to straight pipe this truck or not. I of course love the sound of one, but I’m not sure I will enjoy it 100% of the time any more. I do plan on doing a decent amount of killamat in this truck at some point, but the other aspect is I don’t want to piss of neighbors when I leave at 5am
anyone got suggestions for good mufflers that I can look into that still give satisfying sound but minimize the chance of it getting annoying on long trips or idling in neighborhoods
anyone got suggestions for good mufflers that I can look into that still give satisfying sound but minimize the chance of it getting annoying on long trips or idling in neighborhoods
I ran straight pipe in both my 04 LB7 and current truck before putting the emissions equipment back on. Nether where ever loud in the cab but I have been told my 08 LMM screams when I'm accelerating. With the DPF back on and no muffler it is quite quite but not much difference in the cab
There’s something about the stock downpipe shape/flow that literally makes it scream. On my LBZ with straight pipe and stock down pipe it was like this terrifying scream towards the higher RPM. Aftermarket downpipe and it went away.
I don’t recall much difference in the cab either, and it’ll probably get even better when I killamat everything.
maybe I just do it and then someday I can always add a muffler or resonator
I put a 5 inch straight pipe on my LBZ in regret it. One of these days I’m a look for a muffler that will work with it. Granted I run mud tires too, but not been able to have conversation without yelling at the people in the backseat gets old. Wasn’t a problem when my wife and I where the only ones in the truck but now that we have kids...
Good to know. That’s what I’m afraid of, I had a 5” on my LBZ too but I was single then lol. I loved every second of it then.
I have a 4” on my 02 but I’ve only driven the damn thing twice before I broke it, again.
How are your door seals? I was thinking of replacing mine to see if that helps cut down some wind noise too.
I have a 4” on my 02 but I’ve only driven the damn thing twice before I broke it, again.
How are your door seals? I was thinking of replacing mine to see if that helps cut down some wind noise too.