How long would you run these injectors?

Dozerboy

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Jun 23, 2009
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Good to know. That’s what I’m afraid of, I had a 5” on my LBZ too but I was single then lol. I loved every second of it then.
I have a 4” on my 02 but I’ve only driven the damn thing twice before I broke it, again.

How are your door seals? I was thinking of replacing mine to see if that helps cut down some wind noise too.
Door seals are good and I’ve sound deadened my truck too. I have a thread about it on here with my result.
 

fl0w3n

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Jan 8, 2015
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Door seals are good and I’ve sound deadened my truck too. I have a thread about it on here with my result.
Nice! Just read your thread. That's some dedication to go through and fill the holes like that too.

On past trucks, for audio purposes, I've built an MDF spacer ring to isolate the speaker from the door frame, and then mounded dynamat on top of that.

For this truck I'm thinking of using Kilmat from Amazon and doing inside of door, floor, and I'd actually like to try and get some of the dash panels to hopefully reduce vibrations/rattles. I forgot about the back of the cab until I saw your thread... I might have to add that as well haha.
My dash is rattling slightly just above the cluster, and if I put my hand on it, it stops. So I'm hoping in coating the underside it will stop that. Glove box has a noise too, so same thing, figuring out how to pack it (unseen) with Kilmat.
If/when I do the blend door on top or a heater core, I would love to get the firewall too.

Were your door seals fine or have you replaced them? I'm wondering if mine actually need to be replaced or not.
 
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Dozerboy

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The door seals have never replace in my truck, but i’ve also taken extremely good care of them. it didn’t see a lot of use due to the truck just being transportation for myself and it’s been a weekend truck for the last several years. All the door seals regularly got cleaned and UV protectant added to them. Unless yours are torn I don’t know that they need to be replaced. I know some Ford guys were adding rubber tubing to the inside the door seals to make it more firm and seal better, but I think GMs is a better quality.
 

fl0w3n

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I’ll take a closer look at them. On my 02 Suburban they were pretty bad, but that thing was wore out all over. The PO took good care of this 04, but I don’t know that the door seals have ever been paid attention to.
 

fl0w3n

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Also, an update on the original purpose of the thread... finally pulled the trigger on SAC45s from @Brent@LDS who took real good care of me!

it’s so much nicer being able to work on this thing without having to travel 600 miles to do so. Making some good progress after work. Hoping to have at least one valve cover off and ready by Friday and to complete the whole job over the weekend.
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fl0w3n

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Well that wasn’t how I envisioned that going...

These valve cover bolts fought me harder than my 02 did, but that’s probably because the 02 had people in the valve covers more frequently than the 04 and there was all that extra oil to loosen them up haha

and this is the result. Had to drill out two, one of them being the furthest back one and at the angle I unfortunately went through the valve cover.
I’m hoping that there’s enough left to have a bolt just grab it and hold it enough to keep from leaking
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fl0w3n

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Jeez, I think this is more difficult than my 02 was. Cups and injectors have been a pain to get out.

I scuffed the inside of a cup getting it out. Shouldn’t matter as long as the copper o-ring surface and the area the rubber o-ring seal on are fine right?

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fl0w3n

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I got a cheapie bore scope from HF and found some weird stuff in the heads/cylinders.

first I noticed each injector/cup dropped some crud into the cylinder when I removed them. I was able to vacuum out one because I wasn’t sure what it was, but then my vacuum quit. The rest should just burn up if it’s only carbon bits like I’m hoping. Cylinder walls looked great from what I could see, I could still make out the cross hatch.

On the passenger side cyl 3 I think, once I pulled the cup I saw something sitting right on the edge of the cup hole inside the head. Luckily I was able to grab it with needle nose pliers. It looked like a pencil shaving but out of metal. Not sure what this could be from inside the head?
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fl0w3n

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I forgot to check if the piece was magnetic, it looked like it would be and it had a greenish tiny/hue to it that was hard to pickup in the pics.
 

fl0w3n

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You definitely have some funny stuff with your truck
You talking about that weird metal shaving? I’m not sure what could have rotated enough in the head to produce that. The only rotating part should be the rocker arm shaft, and it wouldn’t have made the pencil like shaving? Maybe the dealer who replaced the injectors the first time?

also pretty clear why the injectors were sticky ha
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2004LB7

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Yeah, metal shavings, deep scratches in the cups, etc.

The junk in the injector fuel line connectors is from when you remove the line it falls in. It builds up around the inside the line nut and falls in when loosening the line. Pretty common. Some that want to reuse any injectors will tap the injector upside down on a piece of wood or something that won't damage the injector and knock out all that junk. Seems to work most the time if done right, the junk or carbon deposits around the tip is from a leaking crush washer. Not too uncommon either
 

fl0w3n

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Yeah, metal shavings, deep scratches in the cups, etc.

The junk in the injector fuel line connectors is from when you remove the line it falls in. It builds up around the inside the line nut and falls in when loosening the line. Pretty common. Some that want to reuse any injectors will tap the injector upside down on a piece of wood or something that won't damage the injector and knock out all that junk. Seems to work most the time if done right, the junk or carbon deposits around the tip is from a leaking crush washer. Not too uncommon either
Scratches in the cup were from me, I did that on one cup when I was first getting my removal method down. Holding the injector next to it, its nowhere near the o-ring on the injector so I’m thinking it’s fine.

metal shaving was a weird one for sure. Didn’t look like any source material I saw in the head.

leaking crush washer makes sense, I was wondering how that made it in there. Wouldn’t/couldn’t that lead to a compression leak? After the crush washer, all that’s left is a o-ring on the injector

Man there was a lot of crud in those to tap out haha. I just Incase put a little bit of the silicone from the valve cover gasket around the opening in the injector line nut so no crud can fall down into the line, Incase I’m ever back in there.
 

2004LB7

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I've heard of some sealing up the line with silicone to try and prevent the crud but not sure if it works. I would think some high temperature grease packed in there may work.
 

DAVe3283

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Sep 3, 2009
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Is the spiral piece of "metal" actually just some lock-tite from the last cup install? I've had them come out in one piece like that before. If it is green, they might have used the bearing retainer (green) instead of high-strength red lock-tite (which would explain why it was so hard to remove the cups).

I always put a bead of silicone between the nut and the line after tightening it up. I do the injector and rail end. It does work to keep the debris out, well worth the couple minutes it takes. You're going to have the silicone out anyway from sealing the upper valve cover.
 

fl0w3n

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Yup it was green and not magnetic. That sounds like a good likelihood. There was minimal loctite to clean up on each cup once it did come out and surface on the head, at least compared to my only other injector job which was the 02. Good call.

yup that’s how I did mine, both at the injectors and at the rail.

Putting all the hoses/ficm/brackets back together was way more time consuming than I anticipated today. It didn’t help that I spent a good 3-5 minutes feeling like I lost my mind because two bolts had walked away...turned out I set them on the cowl just 10 minutes before that.
also those jeezless hose clamp clips. Just about shot my eye out a couple times and still couldn’t get it over my new fuel lines at the filter head/ficm. I’m figuring low pressure side it’s unlikely to leak, but I’ll get hose clamps eventually.

also ripped the passenger side pcv tubing when I took it off, and of course my clean and tidy pcv reroute I made for the 02 wouldn’t fit because federal vs ca. Yay emissions junk

I pretty much only got the filter head rebuilt and half the passenger side above the valve covers back together today after work. Much less than I was anticipating.
 

fl0w3n

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Okay well that’s a new one... got everything all buttoned up and was going to bleed the fuel system by just running the air dog with key on.

so I turned the key on and walked over to filter head and by the time I got there and was about to reach for bleeder screw I heard a big pop. Sounded like it echoed, like when you bang a 5 gallon water jug. startled me, and I’m really stumped by that one.

with just key on, the only thing under pressure would be low side fuel right? What the heck could have made such a loud pop? I had just topped off 3 gallons of coolant.
 

zakkb787

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Sep 29, 2014
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As far as your muffler question, I have a 5” exhaust on my lbz and DP. I put a 12” Flo-Pro twister resonator under the passenger seat and no muffler. Outside, it is loud and the turbo screams. Inside, there is zero drone. I think it was $70. SmokinLMM can attest to the sound. I was down there when I put it on and he was shocked how quiet it was in the cab. My ridge grapplers are actually louder than the exhaust in the cab, and they’re pretty dang silent.