horrible 1/8 times
- Thread starter 02bigstrokin
- Start date
I know this is farfetched, but is there anyone local that you can borrow a set of tires from, just to test? Might be worth the trouble to ask before plunking down major money.
no, not really. i wish. i tryed to find some shocks but no luck. it looks like it might rain
but hopefully it will hold off. there is another race on 6/10 and hopefully ill be more ready for that race.
thurdays around the corner, hurry up and get to it
yeah it is, you just make sure to bring " Waffle frys" with you and be ready to let me know how my tail lights work.:rofl::hug: j/k
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Your tires are fine. You are no where near needing a slick or drag radial.
Take easy weight out. Spare, gate, spare battery, maybe rear seat, ect. Clamp your springs. Set the front tires around 35 and the rears around 30. If this doesn't equal 60's in the 1.7x range then launch harder. If you blow the tires off, then back it off a little bit. It's not rocket science.
On edit: Ranchos would be a good idea, esp. since your stockers have quite a few miles on them.
Edit v2.0: Lower your t-bars all the way down. If your tires still toe-in might think about cognito braces or a centerlink. But I doubt it will be necessary to get in the 1.7's. It will help though.
Take easy weight out. Spare, gate, spare battery, maybe rear seat, ect. Clamp your springs. Set the front tires around 35 and the rears around 30. If this doesn't equal 60's in the 1.7x range then launch harder. If you blow the tires off, then back it off a little bit. It's not rocket science.
On edit: Ranchos would be a good idea, esp. since your stockers have quite a few miles on them.
Edit v2.0: Lower your t-bars all the way down. If your tires still toe-in might think about cognito braces or a centerlink. But I doubt it will be necessary to get in the 1.7's. It will help though.
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how do you figure that my tires are fine? they are bald all terrains. i pulled 1.7x 60's before with the stock charger but with the twins it spins a lot easier. how can you say im no where near needing slicks or drag radial? im probably around 600wrhp, how much do you think is needed to justify slicks, 1000? trent proved drag radials work better. he dropped .20 off his time switching to them. my torsion bars all all the way down, i have braces(their in my sig) and tie rod sleeves. its not my first rodeo. im going to get ranchos but first i thinking about lifting it so i only want to buy shocks once.
and why the hell would i clamp my springs when i have ladder bars? sigs are here for a reason and thats so people can see what you have before posting. all that stuff is in my sig
you ever think its the track and has nothing to do with the tires ?
just reminding every one that not all tracks are created equal and what might be possible at one track is not possible at another one .nobody i know has seen any lower 60's from a general tread tire then swaping to toyo's , this is uincluding every local guy i have talked too , Tom ( thebac ) , idahorob , maxpowerlb7 , and myself . though i loved them as a street tire . but in AZ maxpowerlb7 was able to get 1.66's out of them , then 1.7-1.8's at home .
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Ladder bars don't do much to keep your ass end from squatting do they?
I did not say that a dr or slick would not help. I just think its stupid to plop down a grand for tires that you can't drive on, when you can get what you want with what you have.
There have been more 1.6 60's with bald BFG's than I care to count. Tires are not your problem, setup and or launch technique is. Clamp the springs, and I would even remove the bars if you're able as their weight will negate whatever help they give with preventing axle wrap.(Which the clamps will take care of anyway)
I did not say that a dr or slick would not help. I just think its stupid to plop down a grand for tires that you can't drive on, when you can get what you want with what you have.
There have been more 1.6 60's with bald BFG's than I care to count. Tires are not your problem, setup and or launch technique is. Clamp the springs, and I would even remove the bars if you're able as their weight will negate whatever help they give with preventing axle wrap.(Which the clamps will take care of anyway)
i am not going to question the logic between using a standard off road type bar because ya there main design is to stop wrap , but if you have some specifical desinged for strip use or like a caltrac there is room for gain . i will tell you that if a guy was to move the front spring hanger up on the frame 1-2" further and clamp the spring it would work very well . i am not bashing clamps i ran them for a year and they worked . just think we can do better is all .
Obvsiously the stock rear suspension of a 3/4 ton truck was not designed for drag racing. So I'm sure there could be some improvements with some modification. But when you are cutting 1.8 60's you need to keep it simple instead of throwing money at it, trying to reinvent the wheel.
ya i agree completely,
but with my own track as stated above it takes money to even get 1.6's , at a minimum drag radials . i just think people forget that some tracks are just slippery and it takes alot more work to get times that come easily else were .
im not taking my bars off, ive seen a guy here local run clamps and the whole damn bed of the truck was shaking like it was going to fall off when he left the line. my bars are to stop any kind of wrap. as far as squating goes ive got room to play with my airbags and i know i need new shocks. and your still telling me that i can run the same times on drag radials as my bfg's
if 1.6x are possible with bfgs then 1.5x are possible with drag radials. the question of why go out and spend a grand on tires to run at the strip is stupid, why do anything to these trucks then if thats the case. the speed limit is 45 in most places and 70 at most around here, so why put turbos and build the transmissions, for what, because its a sport like anything else and when your an enthusiast(sp) money doesnt seem to matter. ive got more money in my truck then a lot of vehicles cost, but thats because i enjoy having a fast truck. also i run around on my rockstars other the racing so thats just what drag radials would be for.
Look, run the truck as you normally do. I'll bet the boost leak was causing a lot larger issue than you think.
Id also think about running different tuning. Maybe theres something in that 12.40 tune that just doesnt like twins? If anything, I'd ask IdahoRob to tune a twin truck..he seems to get more out of them than anyone else.
Since you already run traction bars, only other thing I can think of is to play with the pressures in your tires and your launch RPM to get a better 60. I dont recall you saying what you RPM you launch at, or tire pressures....maybe I forgot it. Your airbags are taking care of rear squat, too. Maybe try adding more air to the right hand one to balance out the launch angles side-to-side?
Slick.....Look around in the drag racing and chassis areas. Trent has asked an incredible number of questions and done extensive testing and research on his setup, and he's proven many of his ideas work.
Id also think about running different tuning. Maybe theres something in that 12.40 tune that just doesnt like twins? If anything, I'd ask IdahoRob to tune a twin truck..he seems to get more out of them than anyone else.
Since you already run traction bars, only other thing I can think of is to play with the pressures in your tires and your launch RPM to get a better 60. I dont recall you saying what you RPM you launch at, or tire pressures....maybe I forgot it. Your airbags are taking care of rear squat, too. Maybe try adding more air to the right hand one to balance out the launch angles side-to-side?
Slick.....Look around in the drag racing and chassis areas. Trent has asked an incredible number of questions and done extensive testing and research on his setup, and he's proven many of his ideas work.
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