Help with engine build

R

Ronisonce

New member
Jun 30, 2015
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Here is the conundrum. I did an 11.5 @ 121 on stock internals. I don't want to worry about it anymore... SOOO, I need suggestions on a motor build. I don't want to spend 20k+. I have every piece of the puzzle except for a built motor. I have 100 overs, 12 mm stroker, built tranny and pretty much every other accompanying mod. Modded water pump, SoCal Dampner, Billet injector hold downs blah blah blah....

I was thinking at minimum, pistons, rods, AF Cam (not sure), Keyed Crank (callies), then obviously bearings, seals, machine work etc... I am running s475 over stock compounds. I'm open to suggestions, thanks guys.
 
WolfLMM

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
4,005
26
48
38
AL
Fingers, Carrillos, 6480AF, billet mains, main studs, head studs, valve springs, billet flywheel.

Optional stuff, ported heads, girdle, pushrods(highly reccomended), rocker studs.

I'll be honest. Just the build you listed out in the first post will most likely get you close to a 20k price.
 
kidturbo

kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
2,539
1,377
113
Somewhere On The Ohio
www.marinemods.us
Callies makes a stock spec replacement crank, using better aloys for under 2k now. Probably be good ods for the $. But rest is mostly required hardware to have any piece of mind.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
Chad006

Chad006

Drag racer wannabe
Feb 12, 2015
311
5
18
Goodlow, B.C.
kidturbo said:
Callies makes a stock spec replacement crank, using better aloys for under 2k now. Probably be good ods for the $. But rest is mostly required hardware to have any piece of mind.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Would it really be worth it to buy the stock spec crank? Haven't the stock style billet cranks broke as well? If going billet anyway I would want the piece of mind of the narrow journal crank.
 
DMAXchris

DMAXchris

It’s only temporary!
Apr 28, 2009
2,273
2
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Natrona Heights PA
Carrillos, Fingers race cast, valve springs and throw it back together. I wouldnt waste money on any other things except what is needed.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,685
5,840
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Phoenix Az
you will be 15-20k into this engine. only way to save money is to become REALLY good friends with the major shops to get a little price break, then you do all the machine work and assembly.

just the short block with crank, cam, rods, pistons, machine work, bearings, seals, assembly, girdle (if you wanted it), main studs (if you wanted them), oil pump, billet main caps, and a few other things will put you in the 10-15k range right there depending on options. then throw in rebuilding the heads (which they will most likely need), top end gaskets, push rods, valve springs and any other up grades adds up quickly.

these engines can be built for less but it comes down to end HP goal. what you want is the 20k engine but not for 20k :D
 
ikeG

ikeG

Oughta Know Better
Apr 19, 2011
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Western PA
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We ran a bd flexplate in our last engine to meet sfi requirements at 1000-1100 fwhp for few years and it's still going strong for the guy I sold it too.

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DAVe3283

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
3,727
296
83
Boise, ID, USA
You could put off the flexplate until later, because you don't actually have to pull the motor to do that. You would want to get it match balanced to the stock one, though, if you don't have it at the time of the build.

I'm at 660 WHP (track times put it closer to 610 HP), shift at ~4000 RPM, burnouts to 5000+ RPM, still on the stock flexplate, pushrods, crank, firing order, and oil pump (320k miles on it). I just did main studs, Carillos, Mahle race cast, cam, and aftermarket heads.

For a pure race application, Fingers pistons seem to be the go-to, but they seem to haze a bit and you lose fuel mileage for street applications. I'm not sold on them for sub-1000 HP street trucks.

IMO pushrods aren't necessary, and if you do bend a set, it shouldn't cause valvetrain damage, you just have to pop the rockers off and put stronger pushrods in. That's why I'm still on stock pushrods, despite the cam, valvesprings, and RPMs that I run. Had the heads off 2 times since building the motor, valve lash was always where I set it.

Speaking of, I DO NOT recommend porting your heads. I had SoCal stage 1 ported heads, and had 2 sets fail and hydrolock my motor. By the time you get your heads ported, it is within spitting distance of the Wagler castings, which flow better and don't leak constantly. Wish I had started with the Wagler heads, would've saved me thousands of dollars. So either clean up your stock heads, or go for the Wagler heads, IMO.
 
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