Heeellllp

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
Yes no doubt that's why the guy I found worries me it's hard to trust someone who is basically remapping your truck. And there is no way I'm putting a problematic part back in my truck. I'm doing the delete I just don't want it to be a different issue based on the codes it's currently reading. Good thing is I live in Washington and after a certain year diesels don't need emissions testing. So long as I don't get pulled over by an ass hole cop no one cares around here.

Just please be very careful and discreet posting about deletes in this site or any for that matter. Bad men are watching.

Have you tried the original thing suggested? Prying the exhaust open pre dpf and seeing if it will idle?
 

Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
I would NOT trust someone willing to do it for $300.........


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Well I said I didn't really want to do that. Should I trust you to do my tuning? Your signature says built by me tuned by me. Maybe 300 dollars is a bargain Anyone can build these tunes these days. But then again anyone can which is why I'm forking over more money for kory Willis or maybe idaho rob. I was just trying to find the easiest and cheapest route which I know isn't smart but I don't exactly have 2 grand sitting around. I work everyday and need the truck I might be borrowing money I guess.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
First off PLEASE don't mention names in any post about deletes. We do not want valued member and vendors getting in trouble here. If you wouldn't mind editing their names out.

Second. Your cheapest and easiest route will come when you find the problem. No point in throwing money at it hoping to fix it. Unbolt your exhaust before the dpf and see if it'll idle after clearing codes and charging batteries and letting everything reset. If it idles. Put it back together and if it dies there's your problem. If not. Keep searching.
 

Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
Just please be very careful and discreet posting about deletes in this site or any for that matter. Bad men are watching.

Have you tried the original thing suggested? Prying the exhaust open pre dpf and seeing if it will idle?

Shit sorry I didn't even think about that. And yes today when I put a code reader on it I sprayed wd40 on the flange before the dpf and I put everything I had into the wrench and the bolt head started to round off. I didn't go much further with it and again it's dead and won't really idle. When I get parts I guess I'll be hacking it off in pieces.
 

Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
First off PLEASE don't mention names in any post about deletes. We do not want valued member and vendors getting in trouble here. If you wouldn't mind editing their names out.

Second. Your cheapest and easiest route will come when you find the problem. No point in throwing money at it hoping to fix it. Unbolt your exhaust before the dpf and see if it'll idle after clearing codes and charging batteries and letting everything reset. If it idles. Put it back together and if it dies there's your problem. If not. Keep searching.


Again sorry I figure if I can google the word that rhymes with smeelete and those names are all over the first page I didn't think a blog post would have an effect. I'll edit them.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
You could always hack it off then put a clamp back on it. Trust me. It sucks to throw money at a truck and wind up having to throw more at it because it's not fixed. It could be something as stupid as a sensor or bad wore or ground. Highly unlikely but anything is possible. There are guys on here that have tons of miles on a bone stock truck with dpf. I think one guy has upwards of 825k? And still has the dpf installed. Not saying it isnt problematic. Each to his own.

And it's not a huge problem but thank you for editing. But at times EPA people will get in these sites and try to fish for info to lay a nice big fine On those guys. We don't want a post here being the cause yanno?
 

Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
First off PLEASE don't mention names in any post about deletes. We do not want valued member and vendors getting in trouble here. If you wouldn't mind editing their names out.

Second. Your cheapest and easiest route will come when you find the problem. No point in throwing money at it hoping to fix it. Unbolt your exhaust before the dpf and see if it'll idle after clearing codes and charging batteries and letting everything reset. If it idles. Put it back together and if it dies there's your problem. If not. Keep searching.


And the problem is why I'm here. I don't know what the damn problem is I think that it is my my dpf being clogged since I unbolted and cleaned my egr already. Based on most of the codes it's my dpf. I came here because there is 3 I previously talked about that worry me so I'm asking the people here. I'm asking you all knowing experts what you think about some codes that show up on my computer My exhaust would not unbolt using the right wrench and Wd40. It blows my mind that you think these "bad men" will bust a guy or a shop who is already All over the Facebook, the internet in general, every truck show, tv etc etc over a blog. I've got real issues here I'm on the side of the damn road and we're worried about watching our mouths like we're talking about doing a crack deal in a chat room full of cops. What is your honest opinion about the codes that's all I care about in return I'll watch my mouth lol. Like you and some of these guys are all over multiple duramax forums so you should have some kind of helpful, intelligent, experienced advice
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
Yes I am worried about the guys that are the absolute backbone of the duramax community getting fined because of a few posts that the EPA finds and uses to put someone out of their huskiness. What do you think happened to the mini maxx a few years back if I'm correct. Multiple people here have told you to figure out how tonprh it apart and see if that's the issue. If you're planning on getting rid of it then saw it in half and crank it. If you need to put it back put a band clamp on it till you get your mods done. We can't tell you anything till you charge your batteries and reset everything. The codes currently present sound to me like a lack of power. The issue sounds like a clogged dpf. Charge the batteries somehow. Reset everything. Pull the codes (if any). Try to restart, pull apart the exhaust somehow (sawzall or bolts) and see if it'll run. Worst case scenario it runs and goes into limp mode but you still get it home.
 

IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
2,275
4
0
Well I said I didn't really want to do that. Should I trust you to do my tuning? Your signature says built by me tuned by me. Maybe 300 dollars is a bargain Anyone can build these tunes these days.



Lol. Get bent. You have an attitude problem. You and your truck can stay broken for all I care.




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Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
Yes I am worried about the guys that are the absolute backbone of the duramax community getting fined because of a few posts that the EPA finds and uses to put someone out of their huskiness. What do you think happened to the mini maxx a few years back if I'm correct. Multiple people here have told you to figure out how tonprh it apart and see if that's the issue. If you're planning on getting rid of it then saw it in half and crank it. If you need to put it back put a band clamp on it till you get your mods done. We can't tell you anything till you charge your batteries and reset everything. The codes currently present sound to me like a lack of power. The issue sounds like a clogged dpf. Charge the batteries somehow. Reset everything. Pull the codes (if any). Try to restart, pull apart the exhaust somehow (sawzall or bolts) and see if it'll run. Worst case scenario it runs and goes into limp mode but you still get it home.


It's been a long week. The truck is my baby. If I'm rash it's because I have kids and a lot of bills to be paid. Mini max obviously didn't learn then. My father in law just put one on his 6.4 and it gives him like 250 hp if he wants plus gets rid of unwanted stuff in his computer and I highly doubt I blog sunk that ship but I don't know the story. Sorry for previously naming others. Everyone told me to get the codes which I got. All related to dpf besides the three I wrote down that I wasn't sure of. But ok so I'll get the batteries charged and I'll disconnect before the dpf however I can and then clear the codes and start it. If it lasts with a solid idle my problems obvious. I'm stressed to the max and it doesn't help that the truck is an hour away, I've tried everything suggested even changed my fuel filter, hooked it up to a reader like everyone suggested and I put the codes that were in question on here. Anyway I'll give her a rip and let everyone know I guess.
 

Cougar281

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2006
1,808
251
83
St Louis, MO
For the purposes of your current issues, I wouldn't worry about the 'c' or 'u' codes. They could be caused by the low voltage on power on since the batteries were dead and I assume beung jumped to bring power to tge truck. For the p02e8, is it possible you accidently forgot to plug the MAF in when you put the egr back together?

As far as getting the DPF apart, WD40 isnt going to help. You need a penetrating oil like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. If one or more nuts starts to round off, you shouldn't need to hack the whole thing off. A nutcracker should fit on those buts. Assuming one will, crack them off. If not, cut the offending studs off through the nuts as close to the flange as possible. Then you should be ae to drive whats left out and replace them if you need to put it back together.

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Slowmax

Build what others' won't
Aug 3, 2013
468
0
0
United States
Instead of asking the community here to look into their crystal ball, and diagnosis your truck for you through thin air. Get a wrecker and have it towed to a well known shop who can properly look at it instead of guessing. That should take the stress level down, and get you back on the road with your family safely. Not to mention the money ahead. :thumb:
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,660
5,806
113
Phoenix Az
Instead of asking the community here to look into their crystal ball, and diagnosis your truck for you through thin air. Get a wrecker and have it towed to a well known shop who can properly look at it instead of guessing. That should take the stress level down, and get you back on the road with your family safely. Not to mention the money ahead. :thumb:

this is going to be the best route. i can understand being on a budget but when its the truck you use to tow with your family to a destination hours away and you have the hardest time just figuring out codes or a delete kit, you really need to look at this from the outside in.

if you do any part of this "cheap" cause its what you thought was a good deal, it will come back to bite you in the ass.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,711
772
113
Texas!!!
First of all, a properly fuctioning DPF system does not give warnings about regen. The fact that you have owned the truck for a year, and it has had multiple instances of DPF related issues tells me you have a DPF system that is severely damaged. You need to either replace the DPF or delete it. Once you do that, I would be willing to bet your truck will be running correctly again.
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
DPF is a great system it stores all the stuff they say is bad and causes you to burn more fuel and then shoots all the stored stuff out in a big cloud every 250 mi , wait a min that dose not make any sense !!!!
 

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
Instead of asking the community here to look into their crystal ball, and diagnosis your truck for you through thin air. Get a wrecker and have it towed to a well known shop who can properly look at it instead of guessing. That should take the stress level down, and get you back on the road with your family safely. Not to mention the money ahead. :thumb:
Agreed. I always tell my buddies or acquaintances who say they want a diesel just to have one or they "need" one to tow a trailer every now and then to be ready. It's not a matter of if but when it will cost you money. If you can't afford to drop at least a couple grand on your truck for basic repairs at any point you have no business owning a modern common rail diesel. Yeah it sucks and shit happens but if you want a newer truck that's quiet, smooth, and comfortable it costs money and usually they can't be fixed by watching YouTube videos.

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Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
4,090
2
38
CT
Get an autocal and two new batteries. Then take a saw to the pipes and go home.

I never even got to finish reading your posts because it was one giant paragraph whining about blogs and posts and shit. So maybe you can post up a clear detailed description of what's happened so far


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Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
For the purposes of your current issues, I wouldn't worry about the 'c' or 'u' codes. They could be caused by the low voltage on power on since the batteries were dead and I assume beung jumped to bring power to tge truck. For the p02e8, is it possible you accidently forgot to plug the MAF in when you put the egr back together?

As far as getting the DPF apart, WD40 isnt going to help. You need a penetrating oil like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. If one or more nuts starts to round off, you shouldn't need to hack the whole thing off. A nutcracker should fit on those buts. Assuming one will, crack them off. If not, cut the offending studs off through the nuts as close to the flange as possible. Then you should be ae to drive whats left out and replace them if you need to put it back together.

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Ya I plugged it in right. But I have seen that code on my truck 5-6 months ago when I was checking just for shits and giggles so maybe it's just altogether bad not sure. It's not enough for my check engine light to come on it hasn't before. But ok ya I got some pb blast I could try if not I'll buy liquid wrench.
 

Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
Instead of asking the community here to look into their crystal ball, and diagnosis your truck for you through thin air. Get a wrecker and have it towed to a well known shop who can properly look at it instead of guessing. That should take the stress level down, and get you back on the road with your family safely. Not to mention the money ahead. :thumb:

Well I wasn't asking that just figured with all thes people I could get some good suggestions which I did and I wanted thoughts on codes I wasn't sure of. But the wreckers around here charge 150 an hr for each vehicle so 300 an hour including fifth wheel. Had a bad accident last winter and lay off so I can't afford that and parts
 

Tots

New member
Jul 3, 2017
22
0
0
First of all, a properly fuctioning DPF system does not give warnings about regen. The fact that you have owned the truck for a year, and it has had multiple instances of DPF related issues tells me you have a DPF system that is severely damaged. You need to either replace the DPF or delete it. Once you do that, I would be willing to bet your truck will be running correctly again.

Ya I'm sur you 100% correct this is my first emission controlled diesel so it's all new to me. All the research I've done it's something everyone with my motor has encountered. My father in laws 6.4 and brother in laws all regularly regen and tell them it's regenning so they don't shut the truck off in the middle of a regen whIch I thought for all makes it was kind of the same deal but guess I was wrong.