LB7: Head studs vs factory

madmax02

New member
Apr 30, 2012
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Taylor, Mi
Obviously arp's are superior to factory bolts, but in reality how good are the factory bolts? About how much power do you have to start worrying about the factories not holding anymore?
 

MACKIN

Smell My Finger...
Aug 14, 2006
3,948
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Connecticut
Hard to say as early LB7's have blown head gaskets stock. I'd say 500 plus running a larger turbo or twins I would go ARP.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
in your truck, you will bend rods before stretching a bolt if you run good tuning and lots of air. as long as you keep that stock charger by its self and dont get into NOS, you will be just fine with stock headstuds and stock rods.

if you pop a gasket, it wasnt due to power, it was more than likely due to you having the older style gaskets in there and they would still go one way or the other
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
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in your truck, you will bend rods before stretching a bolt if you run good tuning and lots of air. as long as you keep that stock charger by its self and dont get into NOS, you will be just fine with stock headstuds and stock rods.

if you pop a gasket, it wasnt due to power, it was more than likely due to you having the older style gaskets in there and they would still go one way or the other

ding ding ding
Most HG failures are due to the older style gaskets, NOT the bolts stretching.
I am doing a budget build and LLY conversion and am not going to use studs, but I will be using the newer C grade gaskets.
 

madmax02

New member
Apr 30, 2012
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Taylor, Mi
So if I go with a larger charger I should be ok as long as I'm not building huge power? I understand that the early lb7's hg issue is because of the gasket.
 

paint94979

Beer Nazi
Sep 18, 2006
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ding ding ding
Most HG failures are due to the older style gaskets, NOT the bolts stretching.
I am doing a budget build and LLY conversion and am not going to use studs, but I will be using the newer C grade gaskets.

Wow wow wow Jordan you're pulling your engine and not doing head studs IIRC I pay like 400$ for a set why not do them in your setup?
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
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Wow wow wow Jordan you're pulling your engine and not doing head studs IIRC I pay like 400$ for a set why not do them in your setup?

Its a DD not a race truck. I havent pulled my motor I have a spare LLY. I just want a fresh motor with more oil pressure and not a shitty injection system. I will probably do a small set of twins and enjoy it as a DD/tow vehicle. I have talked to a few engine builders and for what I am doing studs are unnecessary. I will squish a rod far before I lift the heads.
 

RKTMech

Idiot with a wrench
Aug 18, 2008
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The Norco's
Its a DD not a race truck. I havent pulled my motor I have a spare LLY. I just want a fresh motor with more oil pressure and not a shitty injection system. I will probably do a small set of twins and enjoy it as a DD/tow vehicle. I have talked to a few engine builders and for what I am doing studs are unnecessary. I will squish a rod far before I lift the heads.

What are your plans for the "more oil pressure"?
 

x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
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Lexington, Ky
There ain't no way. I got all my motor parts cheap as dirt. I don't recall exactly what my price was in studs, but I believe 530-550. There isn't much mark up in studs from arp. Whatever I paid I think I only got like 10 bucks off retail.

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